The bottle clearly states below basically what has been shared. I'll use it as a gen non eng application. Thanks For Sharing And Helping Me to "Wake Up And Slow Down"! ACCEL Non-Detergent 30W Motor Oil is recommended for compressors and hydraulic systems that require non-detergent oils. ACCEL Non-Detergent 30W Motor Oil, 1 qt: * Recommended for compressors and hydraulic systems that require non-detergent oils * Effective in lubrication of bearings and chains in non-critical "once through" systems * Economical * Good shear stability * Good lubricity * Straight mineral oil * Good flow characteristics * Not for use in automotive gasoline engines

Do not get the Precision. Go with the CC. or another open burner design- they are well worth it. The Precision burner caps are too large and all the flame goes sideways and up the sides of the pan. Do not get an OTR micro. Better to get a dedicated recirculating hood, some are better than others- you want capture area-the grease will cool and stick to it-instead of your walls and curtains, cleanable metal baffles and a charcoal filter for odors. Even Vent-A-Hood makes a "duct free" hood. OTR have to be set low, people spill liquids when reaching up to retrieve their micro-waved coffee. They are expensive and hard to repair. It is much better to have a stand alone microwave. Trevor is right, it is the food and how you cook it that determines your need for ventilation. Usually it's just steam (water). If you grill fatty meats or pan fry in oil, you may burn the fats of course and have smoke. There are better smoke detectors for kitchen areas- some are photoelectric and some are ionization types. I have used a Bluestar open burner range with no hood at all and usually broiled burgers or steaks in the oven instead of on the stove top. Get the Culinarian (or Bluestar). Get the best quality recirculating hood with the largest capture area. You will be much happier. Put the microwave in the Pantry closet. Or buy a small one for the counter-top. Just my opinion of course. Here is a link that might be useful: kitchen smoke detector report

To address the possible root cause of improper air supply, today I removed the pipe from the furnace to the chimney to see if there was any blockage. There was a small pile of soot on the back of the furnace and on the entrance to the chimney. I don't think enough to cause the safety to trip. In the chimney however there was a lot of soot at the base of the chimney. I took out about a foot of soot in the bottom and there could be more but the hose on my little shop vac wouldn't reach further. I'm assuming that is not supposed to be there, is that correct? Could this building soot create an improper draft that would pop the safety reset? As for the motor, you are right, there is only one that matches the specs of the one I currently have - Grainger Item # 4MA12. If this model is installed does that mean I no longer need a stack controller? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/oil-burner-motors/hvac-motors/motors/ecatalog/N-9y9Z1z0nw85

replace the nozzle with a .85 or .75gph x 70A Make ABSOLUTELY sure the retention head isn't burned off (look down the blast tube) you'll need a "F-3" head if it is, if it's carboned up clean it. Replace the electrodes with a standard kit ( cut to length) and use the provided tool to gap them PERFECTLY. Oil furnaces/boilers are simple, reliable pieces of equipment that is inexpensive to service yourself; they do require some knowledge or aptitude however. If you plan on servicing this unit yourself, you'll need to know how to tune it properly, and clean the furnace/boiler throughly. Do lots of reading and learning if you plan on doing this yourself. If you don't have the necessary experience, you probably should call a tech to adjust your air, fuel pressure etc. w/ a bach kit. You should also have a filter in your oil line JUST before the burner (even if you have one at the tank, if not, install one just before the burner); these filters also need to be changed yearly.