Copper countertops, yes or no?
purpleproject
5 years ago
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Success! Copper countertop complete!
Comments (30)Trailrunner - those are beautiful copper pieces...you know, I may just have to do that to the scraps that we cut out/off the copper sheet. Depending on results, it would be something to consider. I just love the look of the natural patina I've seen in the photos from circuspeanut, aliceinwonderland, nottoosticky, and others...so for now, I think we'll let it go. But I would think that even after patinaing naturally, the blowtorch method could still work. When we got home tonight, and entered the "new kitchen" area, it was so cool to have that big area of countertop for groceries, etc...even though that is not our functional kitchen. But then a couple drops of water got on the counter, and what did I do? Frantically wiped it clean! LOL!!! In my defense, our contractor has not yet seen the countertop, so we want to keep it nice until he sees it. After that, let the patina come! Breezygirl - I don't really know exactly how long it will take, but I do recall that aliceinwonderland said that within a couple of weeks it had mellowed substantially and started to take on a beautiful brownish hue. And the cabs will be quartersawn white oak with a cordovan stain - kind of a cherry. Mission style framing. I don't have any pictures of patina-ed copper personally, but if you read the original DIY thread in the metalworking forum (linked below) and scroll through it, you'll see aliceinwonderland's island, and a number of others as well, including circuspeanut's step-by-step instructions with gobs of pictures. Here is a link that might be useful: DIY Copper Counters thread...See MoreDIY copper countertop #2
Comments (45)Awesome thread! Im building an L-shape public bar top which is 5 meters long (196 inches) on the long side and 3 meters (118 inches) on the short side. 450mm deep (17 inches) with about a 2 inches thick overall but with a 4 inch trim under the front lip of the bar. Never worked with copper before but am totally inspired thanks to this board. Im located in the remote Japanese Alps so a little hard to get the local USA products here. Ill probably import the copper in a roll from China and try to get similar contact adhesive and Just for Copper type products locally in Japan. Mongo59, to get your sanded effect, did you just alternate the angle of the sander at regular intervals? Pruit6, do you have any more pictures of how you folded the copper around the edges and corners? Circus Peanut and Jenathegreat, after years of use do you have any issues with the glued edges opening up at all? Has the Just for Copper product lasted over time? If expoxy is used, will it scratch and dull over time with heavy use? Thanks everyone for all your insights....See MoreFungicide Copper spray on flowering tomato plants, yes or no ??....
Comments (11)IMO, fungicide is a VERY important part of growing tomatoes. I use the Copper Fungicide from Bonide. ("Suitable for organic gardening.") I start spraying - from day 1 - when I transplant the seedling, till September / October. Every week, on both sides of the leaves. Some spray every 10 days, or every 2 weeks. Some even don't spray at all - which I think is not a brilliant idea. So I spray the plants on ALL their stages, and I never had ANY kind of problems with my tomatoes. I always spray in the morning - NEVER in the evening. And - obviously - never before a rain. I use goggles and gloves. I wear long sleeve shirt, and pants. Not SHORT pants. For spraying, I use this awesome One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, by Solo who has – among other goodies - a “Multi-directional nozzle allows spraying from all positions.” Spraying fungicide - done diligently - can be a VERY time consuming operation, if you have many plants. It can take a few hours. A rule that I follow, is that if you can see through the “jungle” you don’t need to prune. But if you CAN’T see, fungicide is not only very difficult, but has no efficiency. One of my "jungles" (2014)...See MoreC122 copper suitable or not for countertops?
Comments (1)Hi there. THe C122 will be fine. There is no difference with regard to how you are using the metal. I use C122 for my sinks, as it has better properties for welding and for patination. C122 is not considered a lower grade by any means. It is usually 99,8% pure copper with a touch of pure silver. Those should be the only two items in the metal....See Morepurpleproject
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