Fungicide Copper spray on flowering tomato plants, yes or no ??....
8 years ago
Hi . Is it OK to spray fungicide copper spray on flowering tomato plants ?, or it is a big no no....
I use this brand, and 4.6 grams per liters.
thanks
stef
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Alternative to Liquid Copper Fungicide?
Comments (6)>this would be applied to the wound after the tree had sealed the area off, NOT > to fresh wounds. So, the question would be, would Timbor work its way >through the dead wood to living tissue? But as the branch collar expands to grow over the wound, that growing tissue is in direct contact with the treated wound. My concern is that this would delay the closing of the wound if the timbor affects the collar growth. The timbor web site says that the treatment lasts as long as the wood is not exposed to running water, so rain may be able to leach some out. Who knows how much of the timbor would leach out of the wound and if that would be enough to slow the growth of the collar? If closing is just delayed, maybe it's a non-issue since the timbor would prevent any rot from starting. If the timbor really kills the encroaching collar, that's a different story. I think a few simple experiments are in order. Alex...See MoreEfficacy of Copper fungicides
Comments (9)Thanks so much for responding! I had some trouble logging in yesterday night, so please forgive my lack of follow-up. Krista, you must have the strength of Job for being able to ignore the BS leaves! I aspire to that! KSGreenman and WinterCat, I should have specified that I used the powdered formulation. I have used the premixed copper soap spray and when I ran out and tried to get more, the options at the shop were the liquid concentrate and the powder formulation both of which were to be dilued in water. Well, the powder is what I went with that left the yellow-blue deposits on the leaves. WinterCat, I didn't get the Kocide; and this thing says that it should be reapplied after it rains as it does wash off. We'll see. Either way, I'm pleased to hear your comments that it is effective. Perhaps my roses will be able to forestall their BS infestation until later in the season. Last year they started altogether too early when I was still in insect combat mode (there is a winter moth infestation in the Boston parts). I'm hoping for a bit better control this year and your comments make me a bit more hopeful that I might have put off the infestation a bit. How frequently do you reapply? Michael, your comment worries me. When you say it is probably no safer than the Tebucanazole, do you mean while applying it or to animal life afterwards? (Either worries me, but I'd just like to know). I did use the micronized sulphur last year but again wasn't sure of either efficacy or general safety and made the assumption that a copper sulphate would be gentler all around to sulphur. It sounds from what you say that sulphur would be the better agent to use when it is still cool and that copper better when it is hot? Is that right? What is your opinion on the Neem stuff? Is it effective against BS? The spray itself says it helps protect against insects and Powdery Mildew which is really not much of a problem for me, so, although I have used the Neem spray a couple of times to combat the insects against which it was decidedly effective, when I saw a few leaves with BS, I thought I'd switch to something that at least explicitly said it tackled BS. Wondering if you agree with this rationale?...See MoreManaging fungicide resistance buildup (for those who spray)
Comments (10)Yes indeed Michael. Good point, thanks. I use the word as in 'organic chemistry'. 'Organic' being a word coming from greek, I'm confused sometimes about its everyday use in english. In greek (and in other languages I believe) we use another greek word (of course..) 'biological' for this. The use of either word is problematic (another greek word lol) in my view. Not all 'organic' chemicals (yet another..) are supposed to be a no-no for organic growing and vice versa (this comes from latin though). PS1 To add insult to injury, in the case of fertilizers the matter is reversed. Chemically organic ones are 'good' for organic growing while inorganic ones may be considered 'bad' regardless of the fact that plants like to eat mainly inorganic ingredients... What is OK for organic growing and what not is a matter of debate, confusion and as much of science as of pre- and misconceptions*. *PS2. In some quarters for example, mined mineral fertilisers (inorganic compounds) are supposedly OK while the same chemical, if manufactured, is disallowed (the difference being the supposedly environmentally hazardous production process). Go figure....See MoreTo Fungicide or not to Fungicide?....
Comments (7)There is much confusion about fungicides because many people want the best product for a host if ailments and it just don't work that way in many instances. The 2 products mentioned are readily available to home gardeners and while chlorothalonil has both oral and dermal LD50 of 10,000 mg/ kg, fixed copper typically has an oral LD50 of only 1000 mg/Kg making it far more toxic. You should see the label word "CAUTION" with such products having an LD50 range 500- 5000. Various fungicides available to licenced pesticide applicators are in many respects safer than either of those, but because of their specified mode of action the target disease may develop resistance to the materials if they are not used properly. There are different fungicides that have curative action. Again, not available to the home gardener.Sadly, many gardeners repeatedly apply chlorothalonil to prevent Early Blight in tomatoes even while researchers agree that it is a poor choice for that use. It is a better preventative fungicide for Late Blight. So back to the original post. Under your weather circumstances you are well advised to spray---- but what is the predominant disease you are trying to prevent? What are your circumstances? If Cooper runoff into streams occurs it is very toxic to fish. Labels with the products are your best guidelines....See MoreRelated Professionals
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8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
8 years ago
8 years ago- 8 years ago
8 years ago- 8 years ago
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoIMO,
fungicide is a VERY important part of growing tomatoes.I use the Copper Fungicide from Bonide. ("Suitable for organic gardening.")
I start
spraying - from day 1 - when I transplant the seedling, till September / October. Every week,
on both sides of the leaves. Some spray every 10 days, or every 2 weeks. Some even don't spray at all - which I think is not a brilliant idea.So I spray the plants on ALL their stages, and I never had ANY kind of problems with my tomatoes.
I always spray in the morning - NEVER in the evening. And - obviously - never before a rain.
I use goggles and gloves. I wear long sleeve shirt, and pants. Not SHORT pants.
For spraying, I use this
awesome One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, by Solo who has –
among other goodies - a “Multi-directional nozzle
allows spraying from all positions.”Spraying fungicide - done diligently - can be a VERY time consuming operation, if you have many plants. It can take a few hours.
A rule
that I follow, is that if you can see through the “jungle” you don’t need to
prune. But if you CAN’T see, fungicide is not only very difficult, but has no
efficiency.One of my "jungles" (2014)
- 8 years ago
- 8 years ago
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