Of course prices vary depending on region & set up, but we too are down to studs and are building in a new shower. We went with a new shower head, hand held shower w/sliding bar & we're opting for a diverter with 1 valve. Cost to install by master plumber 380.00. He also is going to run the drain, which is an additional 150.00. The tiler is building the pan (or shower floor). I'm not sure what a trench drain is, ours will be centered. All in all you can plan for at least 600 - 800 in plumbing for what you're doing especially because you will have dual volume controls & the thermostatic valve, but trying to pin down costs through the forum is a wild card at best. You'd be better served by calling a couple of plumbing places to get a more accurate idea about what the costs in your area would run.

I contacted an inspector and described my situation. He charges a lot and we don't have the money right now, but he gave his best diagnosis through email. He said that the fasteners used for hardwood flooring don't hold well in OSB (surprise surprise), and that because the joist spacing is so wide, there is a lot of deflection causing the fasteners to loosen. The only remedy is to tear up the floors, fix the subfloor by adding thickness, and re-install. Has anyone ever done this? Is it expensive? I've contacted the builder and let him hear a video of my husband and I walking down the hallway and the floors cracking with every step. The builder says it is most likely because of the harsh winter we had, and that the humidity of spring/summer might help the noises calm down. They refuse to fix it. So now what?

I have Waterlox in my powder room. Applied it myself when the tung oil finish faded. I've also applied it to an exterior threshhold with excellent results. Easy to apply and I find it patches well. It's stinky, really stinky for a few days. I wouldn't want to work with it in the heat of summer. Requires open windows and fans but it goes on evenly, dries down and when we recently had a flood in the p.r. with water soaking an antique wood floor all night, the boards cupped slightly but the finish was bulletproof -- not a mark. The antique floor, btw, was done from remnants of another job our contractor did. When he saw the WL finish vs the poly done in the original house he said he was sorry he hadn't used it there. There are different sheens and tints. Our first floor is 4" ash finished with tung oil going on 5 years. It's waxed so it's held up but when it's time to redo I'm going with Waterlox.

https://lpcorp.com/resources/product-literature/installation-instructions/lp-topnotch-installation-instructions-english Recommended Glue-Nail Application • Use of the APA Glued Floor System is highly recommended. It ensures greater floor stiffness and helps reduce nail popping and floor noise. • Snap a chalk line across length of floor 4´ in from rim band for panel edge alignment and as a boundary for spreading glue. • Use only adhesives conforming with Performance Specification AFG-01 developed by APA with the Glue Floor System. • Wipe any mud, dirt or water from joists before gluing. • Spread only enough glue to lay one or two panels at a time, or follow specific recommendations of the glue manufacturer. • Apply a continuous line of glue, about 1/4˝ diameter, to framing members. Apply glue in a serpentine pattern on wide areas. • Apply two lines of glue on joists where panel ends butt to ensure proper gluing of each end. Excessive use of glue may interfere with drain notches. • Spread glue in groove of one or two panels at a time before laying. Apply a continuous line of glue but avoid squeeze-out by applying a thinner line (1/8˝) than on joists. Lay first panel with tongue side to rim band and align edge with snapped chalk line. Initially nail into place to prevent movement. • Stagger end joints in each succeeding row. A 1/8˝ space between all end joints is recommended. Use a spacer tool to assure accurate and consistent spacing. • On each successive row, slide panels into place. If necessary, tap panels into place using a block to protect groove edges. Do not force panels together or overdrive; the tongue and groove profile is self-spacing, allowing for 1/16˝ gap along the panel edges. The tip of the tongue should touch the back of the groove, but not be overdriven. • Complete all nailing of each panel before glue sets (See Fastening Schedule). Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for allowable time. Keep in mind that warm weather accelerates glue setting. • Fasteners should penetrate into framing members at least 1˝. Use 6d ring- or screw-shank nails for panels 3/4˝ thick or less and 8d ring- or screw-shank nails for thicker panels. • Fasten panels 3/8˝ from panel edges; space nails according to Fastening Schedule. Closer nail spacing may be required by some codes or for diaphragm construction. Finished deck may be walked on and will carry construction loads without damage to glue bond.