Building a minimalist range hood out of drywall or plaster
Danielle
5 years ago
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Deena Lang
4 years agoGN Builders L.L.C
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Struggling to find a quiet range hood to 'build in'
Comments (12)Also look at Sirius brand hoods -- That's what we got, and it is really, really quiet! AKChicago's point about the ducting is also very important. From the research I did, it seems vent noise comes from two sources: - Motor noise, which you can control by the appliance you purchase and the way you mount it, and - Air Noise, which you manage by having the shortest, least-obstructed air flow you can. Some very interesting tidbits -- Unless your hood vents straight up, you have to change the direction of airflow at some point. You may also need to change the shape or size of the ducting - from round to square or vice versa, both of which disrupt airflow and increase noise. But it seems that if you change direction at the same time as you change shape, you get one of the changes 'free' noisewise... And two 45 degree turns are much quieter than on 90 turn. Ridged vents should be avoided if at all possible (fire and noise). I wish I still had the link, but there is, somewhere out in Internet-land, a great little tool to calculate your 'effective duct length' -- a measure that is comparable to a plain straight run. This little chart factors in turns, sizes, etc. to really help you keep things quiet....See Moredoes anyone have a plaster range hood cover?
Comments (5)All of these different materials! Joint compound & drywall, stucco & plaster.....UGH! eam, I'm not sure I'll be using either joint compound or drywall....will I?!? If I do, you will be my go to person! :) live-wire, thank you so very much for that article. I like that they're putting the roof felt on the wood, then the wire mesh to stucco over. Even tho I'm not doing stucco, it sounds like a great idea for plaster, as well. But 1st, I'm not sure what the difference is in stucco & plaster. I may be wrong, but I've heard of stucco for being outside of home & plaster in old homes for walls. Perhaps both can be used in the same context & there's just a difference in the ingredients? I'm just trying to do a range hood, a small one at that, but I know I need to take certain things into consideration. First is heat. Then durability in a kitchen where there could be extra humidity, as well. I don't want this to come crumbling down a few months later, or catch fire!! Instead of the lathe, can the mesh take it's place? If I'm using plaster, will that be ok? Are you familiar w/ working w/ either of these materials &, if so, do you have a preference to use? I have a friend that has plastered walls. Walls that are already up & have texture over them. He's going to do this for me, but he hasn't done anything other than walls, so he isn't sure about having to put something on the wood 1st, or needing something else for this project. This is where I think I'm really stuck. I just want a smooth finish that looks like the ones I see in pictures! I love the look. I'm going to be putting a piece of barnwood at the bottom of the hood, as well. Maybe I should be more concerned about that!! :) Anyway, thank you for your help!...See MoreRange hood installation in appartment building
Comments (16)The OP may not have looked very deeply into this forum, but there is a wealth of hood information available. Here are some highlights: Cooking odor rises with cooking water vapor, cooking grease vapor, and cooking smoke. The velocity of this rising and expanding effluent plume from each hot surface varies with the temperature of the plume and whether hot gas combustion products are also present. Velocities in the 0.6 to 1.2 m/s may be observed. To capture the odor and everything else requires a hood large enough to encompass the plumes at the height selected for the hood. The hood has to overlap the pan bases, and this generally means the hood has to overlap the cooktop. If it does, then the capture part of a hood's essential function of capture and containment can be met. For containment, the effluent has to be moved from the kitchen side of the hood filter to the duct side of the hood filter without having any "reflect" out of the hood. A suggested air velocity for this purpose is 90 ft/min (roughly 0.5 m/s). This is equivalent to 90 CFM per square foot of hood aperture. Given this flow rate, the duct should be sized for around 1000 ft/min velocity, but this can be as low as 500 and as high as 2000. Cold ducting can influence the choice of velocity to minimize grease collection by impingement. Planning ahead for a different hood can also influence the selection. I don't have a particular opinion about what is most aesthetic, but would lean toward rectangular covers that hide the ducting. An external blower will be modestly quieter than an internal blower. If an external blower is used, a silencer may be used between the blower and hood to further reduce noise. I don't know if such silencers (e.g., Fantech) are widely available outside the USA. Noise levels depend on the source, but from typically loudest to less loud, the order is: blower blade tip turbulence baffle or mesh turbulence duct turbulence motor vibration kas...See MoreDuctless build-in range hood - does it exist at all?
Comments (11)To do a wood surround like that, your Kitchen Designer will need to duct the air flow generated by the insert to somewhere. You’ll need a duct and exhaust grate similar to a HVAC return, positioned either at the top of the hood, or ducted 90 degrees through a wall into an adjacent pantry or utility room. Since tecirculating does not typically provide the air flow that a ducted hood can provide, you will also end up with more effluent on the surround and cabinets. That means more frequent cleaning, and the possibility of damage to all of the surrounding wood surfaces over time. That is why that most who need to do recirculating end up with a stainless under cabinet hood or stainless chimney hood, as it will withstand the care regimen better over time. Function rules over form. Be sure that the hood capture area is wider and deeper than the cooking zone below, as that will help with capture and cleaning both. Finally, consider the scale of the kitchen and ceiling height both when designing the kitchen. Most large mantle hoods appear overbearing in a smaller kitchen with a shorter ceiling. A 30” range often appears dwarfed by the typical proportions needed for a mantle hood. Be very careful here, and be sure that your KD helps you to visualize this through their software. It’s a pretty significant upgrade expense over a stainless hood, and you do not want to have regrets....See MoreDeena Lang
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