Snowmageddon in the PNW
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Which salvias are perennial in PNW?
Comments (11)I can only speak for my garden in Walnut Creek, CA that was total adobe soil. Adobe is a very compact soil, hard as rocks in summer and sticky and dense in winter. Most Salvias are Mediterranean natives and grow in this soil - but more successfully on slopes. They can not tolerate wet feet. I grew more than 125 varieties of salvias under these conditions. Adobe is very fertile and requires no fertilization for most plants. Adobe mud will pull soles off of shoes when dried! Direct as well as reflected sun, summer temps in the 100's, and watering only when plants showed distress produced salvias that bloomed all summer and fall, seeded prolifically and lived for years and years. Can they be grown in the PNW? Sure with lots of fussing and experimentation to find the ones that will survive, but there are so many other beautiful plants that will be easier and more satisfying and I prefer to plant those. Life is too short and my garden is too big to seek plants that I know will not thrive....See MoreWhat roses you want and can’t buy because it is out of stock?
Comments (192)Darlene and I went to get a 2nd climbing coral dawn rose from the garden centre near us as that is where I got the first one from. The region had built this shed to put this stuff in and Darlene thought a climbing rose would help improve the outlook of the blah back of the shed and liked pink climbing roses instead of the traditional red ones. Bought a fancy shmancy black rod iron trellis for close to $70 but when we went to check up on the roses they were all gone the regular sized ones!!!! All they had left were the mini knockout ones. Tried another garden center but nope none there and Black Forest didn't have any either. Not sure what Lowes have left. I bet I could have gotten one when I got my Aurora Borealis rose. Had a table full of climbing roses back then. Live in Ontario Canada so can't get any shipped from the states to here. I emailed Sheridan Nurseries in Markham if they have any and they have it it in their database. If so I can take 3 buses to it. So if left at 10 in the morning would get there about 11:00. Would go thru the week. Sooo keeping fingers crossed. Maybe they also could ship it by courier. not sure. If not may have to wait until next year to get one. :(...See MoreBush beauty & fast repeat & heat and drought tolerant?
Comments (45)Re-check what Frank Gatto, the owner of rose-nursery advised for his high-rain acidic PNW location, and HE LIMED ONLY IN MARCH, and no more afterwards !! I checked on liming and lime DOES BURN in hot weather, and cause wilting & scorching of leaves from its extreme alkalinity (pH over 10). Roses Unlimited formula for planting hole is a bit complicated, so I post a simple formula below (I also mix in 2 cups of alfalfa meal for growth-hormone). Frank Gatto's roses are grafted on Dr.Huey (prefers alkaline), so he's heavy on liming! I would use less lime (1/2 cup) for large & years-old established rose in high-rain climate. Farmers routinely use lime with nitrogen in spring time since lime boosts nitrogen uptake. https://goodlifenw.blogspot.com/2012/07/seven-essentials-to-growing-healthy.html "SOIL — For planting, Gatto mixes 50 percent native soil and 50 percent organic compost or potting soil and adds a cup each of bone meal and Garden Lime per bush. He also gives established plants a cup of lime in March, for optimal soil pH." I translate this to 1/2 potting soil and 1/2 my clay (on top), also mix in 2 cups of alfalfa meal plus 1 cup Plant-Tone (has bone meal), and 1/4 cup lime to neutralize the acidity of 2 cups of alfalfa meal (or 2 TBS of lime to neutralize the acidity of 1 cup of alfalfa meal). For LARGE established rose (grafted on Dr.Huey), Dr.Huey rootstock prefers alkaline pH, versus own-root prefer neutral pH, versus multiflora-rootstock prefers slightly acidic: "Gatto advises giving roses small but frequent meals, as opposed to large amounts of fertilizer less often. He uses a balanced granular fertilizer with an N-P-K number no higher than 20 (such as 15-15-15), along with a blend of organic meals including alfalfa, cotton seed, fish, blood and kelp. "I give each one a handful (about a half a cup) every three weeks." Water thoroughly after feeding." So he uses 1/2 cup of chemical fertilizer 10-10-10, plus 1/2 cup of organics like Espoma Tone per LARGE bush (3' x 2') every 3 weeks for grafted-on-Dr.Huey (heavy feeder). Big-fat-foot-long-Dr.Huey-rootstock needs heavy fertilizer, but for tiny own-roots, I skip chemical fertilizer altogether and use only 1/4 cup organics every 2 weeks. Since pots leach out nitrogen more, I use 1 TBS. Osmocote per month, plus 1/4 cup organics (Lilly Miller) every 2 weeks per pot. There is 6% sulfur per 1/4 cup of Osmocote PLUS NPK 15-9-12 (applied every 6 months per 2 gallon pot or 4 square feet, per label instruction). Sulfur is for growth & dark-green leaves, but Osmocote PLUS DOES NOT HAVE calcium. Since we have heavy rain in spring, plus heavy rain in fall. I limit liming to early spring, or late fall with cool weather. Lime does burn, so best in cold & week-long rain. Below is the Squire (older Austin rose), which has bush beauty (nice color), plus heat & drought tolerance (very thorny). Blooms have zillion petals, so the repeat is slow. The Squire with dark-green leaves prefer alkaline so does well with liming. I also give it potassium to prevent blackspot after blooming. Potassium should be twice more than calcium per rose-tissue-analysis:...See MorePalatine- what are you ordering?
Comments (352)it's sad but true. Note that Peter Schneider has a large list of discontinued DA roses on his Custom Propagation list--I think Schneider and Palatine have a good relationship with each other and have seen similar roses carried by both. I am tremendously jealous of anyone who managed to get a WS2000....See More- 7 years ago
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