Drop the leaning trees to the ground and leave them. I've now had 2 different houses in virgin forest, and what you notice there is how OPEN the interior of the forest usually is. (In one area that's naturally managed by wildfires, my loppers replaced regular wildfires!) You shouldn't have tons and tons of seedlings once the trees get decent-sized. You should have a healthy space between each tree. This is usually a function of the height of the canopy--in areas where the canopy height is 25' or less, the distance could be 5-10' between trunks, while where I now live, where the canopy height is well over 60', the natural spacing in old growth forest should average 15' or more. The edges of the forest and the breaks in the canopy are more crowded, but they thin out as the forest matures. And in addition, there's an understory layer that, on the east coast, really isn't all that dense. Excessive competition because of a too-large loss of the forest canopy, such as happens when an area is clear-cut then allowed to grow in, and result in a densely undergrown forest full of overcrowded, stunted trees. This can last for up to a century. You can choose to go in and deliberately favor the stronger trees to get a mature forest considerably faster, but you're dealing with the growth rates of trees, here. In your situation, I wouldn't worry about there not being enough seedlings. If there are a lot of saplings in dense concentration, you can thin out the smaller ones of the same type to give the stronger ones a boost. Forests get damaged. I only have two acres here, but I get many, many limbs on the ground the size of my arm or larger. Starting with the week before we moved in, we've lost AT LEAST 4 mature trees in as many years. (Tons more if you count our elderly peaches slowly giving up the ghost and the trees we deliberately removed because they were struggling so badly in the cultivated part of our property.) Some of these trees have been massive--the "little" one was about 18" in diameter at its base, and the largest was far too big for my arms to go around. I'd worry if the trees are vine-covered. There are a number of invasive varieties that can take out large swaths of trees. Otherwise, it's just happens.

I have an open concept living area so my office space is open to the more formal living area. I recently remodeled and what I did was incorporate as much storage as possible so that things could be hidden away. My printer is installed inside a lower cabinet that rolls out so that it is hidden. This also stores paper. There is an outlet in this cabinet to plug in the printer. I don't need huge amounts of file storage so at this point almost everything is digital but I have one smallish file cabinet to hold some hanging files. My desk counter area runs the width of the wall and also does a turner at the corner. This is where I have my computer. I have upper cabinets which have sliding decorative doors and these hold a multitude of sins - they also complement the design choices of my living room in terms of color and style as they are Art Decoish in style. I have a little covered compartment by my computer which holds my external hard drives which I use for backup and additional storage of digital files. My designer had suggested using a fabric on the wood between the counter/desk and the upper cabinets which would be a decorative way of pinning stuff. My office needs really aren't into pinning paper as I try to get rid of as much paper as possible but this would be an attractive option for people who do pin stuff. I purchased a very stylish (and comfortable) office chair. It is upholstered non-traditionally in teal blue faux ostrich :-). Again this complements design elements from the living room. For me the key was balancing functionality and aesthetics and maximizing hidden storage.

How are you going to water the garden grass area? I would suggest it is too big for above the ground sprinklers unless you have a pivot system!! I have seen miniature pivot systems in yards. I think they were novelty units, but they worked. Whether and how you plan to water should inform which type of grass you use in the garden and wild area. I'd start by mowing what you have regularly and see what survives that process. We have a neighbor who mows about 3 acres with a garden tractor variety mower (40-inch). I'm not sure if she doesn't know where the Jackrabbit mode on the throttle is, but it takes her a long time to mow that. So consider your equipment. Do you want two mowers - one for the garden and one for the wildscape? Think about it. Are you experienced on a real tractor? Here's a picture of the traditional way to prepare land for planting a lawn. The attachment on the back of the tractor is a box blade. It has a push/pull blade with ripper tines and side plates to contain the soil being pulled. The tines pull roots and rocks out of the soil. An experienced box bladesman should be able to clear your entire 6 acres in a morning if there are not many obstacles like rocks, trees, or concrete. Since it was under crop recently, a morning should do it. Ask your landscaper how long it would take. If he says a week, he's either not using a tractor or he really doesn't know what he's doing. Some beginners will try using a bobcat or skidsteer with a smaller box blade. Those take a week for even small property. For such a large area, the landscaper would likely recommend hydroseeding. The seed sprays out of a fire hose and covers a lot of area fast. As for seed in the wild area, visit your local county ag extension office. Ask them which of the wheatgrasses do best in YOUR area. These can be pretty localized in some locations. You want one that will perform with monthly mowing. I would also suggest blue grama to mix with the wheatgrass. Since it will be wild anyway, you might want inoculated Dutch white or strawberry clover in the mix. The seed is inoculated with a bacterium which can extract nitrogen from the air and turn it into fertilizer, so you don't have to fertilize the wild areas. Before your builder does his seeding, ask him how he plans to prepare and do the seeding. Maybe you can throw in some cash and work out a deal to do the entire 6 acres all at the same time. These are some things to think about.

I'm just going to chime in here to say that we had two dining areas off our kitchen, since it was open on two sides. One was the informal everyday dining area, and the other was the formal dining room. We have a small house and I realized it was a complete waste of space to have two dining areas and since we rarely entertained and even used the formal dining room, why have it just sitting there most of the time, unused. In my case, I converted the informal dining area into a project work space and we started eating in the formal dining room every day, every meal, or at least most. I would encourage you to utilize the formal dining room in similar creative ways. At my last house, I had a small office at one end of the dining room, just for bill paying, mail sorting and occasional correspondence. I had it all set up on a rolling cart, and when I was working I just rolled it next to the table where I was sitting. Made for easy set up and take down. Very occasionally, i used the top of the rolling table as a serving cart when I entertained, so it also did double duty. Also in my own formal dining room, I now have some bookshelves. Great if you use the dining table as a homework spot. As for me, I sometimes like to go in there and have a muffin and coffee and read, plus I keep my cookbooks and recipe file in there so I often sit in there to make up my grocery list based on what I plan on fixing . . . Lastly, I wouldn't rule out the seating area as a possible food prep space, I'd want easy to clean stuff and a table that was possible to work or eat from . . . low key.