I did go to the site when abbisgram told me my home was on there and I have since contacted the person who runs that site and I should have another posting on her site and some more details of my remodel, But thanks for letting me know

"If they install it correctly you will never have any problems. That's why they offer it. Its a low risk warranty the sounds really good." I kind of agree with that.

One thing I would add to Square Peg's advice is that more WAPs (wireless access points) is not always better. You want to make sure you add enough WAPs so that anywhere in your home there will be a dominant WAP signal your device will want to connect to. However, if you have 2 or more dominant signals coming from different WAPs your device might not jump correctly from WAP to WAP as you walk through your home and a sluggish/inconsistent Wifi connection will result. Also make sure you adjust your WAP wireless channels correctly so they do not overlap. Download a free Wi-fi scanner app so that you can view competing wireless devices from neighbors and make adjustments to your channels accordingly so you are where they are not. If you are in a large condo complex or down by the beach you are pretty much screwed as far as potential wireless interference is concerned, but in other less populated areas scanning for less populated channels is a good idea to optimize Wifi performance. Generally alternating Channels 1, 6 and 11 for the 2.4Ghz wireless radio is the way you want to go barring any specific exceptions. If you are installing Zigbee based devices, stay away from Channel 11 on the 2.4Ghz Wireless radio as many Zigbee devices default to Zigbee Channel 26 which can interfere with it. Generally keep Zigbee devices at least 6ft away from Wifi devices if you can help it. Safe bets for lighting are Lutron's Caseta or RA2 which communicate on the 1.9Ghz spectrum and any Z-wave devices which operate on the 900Mhz spectrum.

I rearranged the short wall on the left to put the fridge there and used a shallow, side-loading broom cabinet on the end. I don't think there's a concern about heat transfer between a fridge and pantry--we see that line-up a lot--as long as you follow the installation specs for airspace at the back and sides. If you are still concerned, you can include a sheet of foam insulation between the fridge surround and the pantry, covered by trim. Also note--I voided the bottom left corner (27"), but if you want to reclaim that space, it could open to the exercise room, for storage in that area. IMO, dishes should be stored near the DW, for the convenience of whomever is unloading, then an individual can retrieve a cup or bowl whenever he needs it. An exception is a coffee/drinks station, if it's far from the dish storage area. It looks as if you have a coffee center planned for the short counter in the top right of the kitchen (top right on the plan), so since dish storage will be near that spot, include a beverage fridge there. A small upper cabinet to the left of the MW could house a few glasses, if you really want them near the main fridge. 72" is too far between the sink and range, even if that was your primary prep space. 36" is the minimum recommended by the NKBA, but maximum should be a comfortable step, or two--48"-54". I'd move the sink over far enough to put the DW to the left, along with a 36" super susan in the corner. You would have the choice of storing dishes in drawers on the wall to the left, or between the clean-up sink and range. Either location is out of the main prep space and convenient to the DR, for setting the table, and to the coffee/beverage counter. Dishes, cups, and glasses don't need to be kept in upper cabinets; almost anything--even small appliances--- can be efficiently stored in drawers. Dishes in drawers. I made the island 6.5', rather than 6', since each seat needs 24" elbow space, plus 15" leg space. The prep sink should be at least 18" wide, and I moved it to the other side to leave a nice landing space for incoming groceries to be loaded to the fridge and pantry. A trash receptacle is on the corner of the island, where it can be easily shared by prep and cooking zones, but if that's too far from the clean-up zone, I included another trash/recycle pull-out near the beverage center. The range was moved down slightly, to keep it centered on the island. I added legs to the island seating overhang, and an extra run of shallow cabinetry to help support the counter. Side-loading broom cabinet, top right: NKBA guidelines New to Kitchens? Read me first. (I'm not a pro, but I want everyone to have the best kitchen possible. :)