I think a soft silvery gray like the bedding would be beautiful! Charcoal would be nice too but I would not go as dark as the brown you have now. Then, I think a rug and some artwork would soften and cozy up the room. Here is a link that might be useful: Bedroom

Sorry to be slow...have been a busy person this weekend! There are color experts here that are smarter than I am about this...but here goes. To neutralize the pink a bit, I would look for a soft gray or taupe with a very subtle lavender undertone. You don't want it to read purple, but something like Sherwin Williams "Grayish" (SW 6001) or "Snowfall" (SW 6000) or "Chelsea Mauve" (SW 0002). BMoore's "Rockport Gray" (HC-105) is grayer still, but has a good neutrality. Alternatively, a fawn or tan with some peachiness in its undertone will also soften the pink effect. SW's "Reticence" (SW 6064) is a nice soft one with that characteristic; also "Familiar Beige" (SW 6093). If you like the idea of something almost mauve, look at "Doeskin" (SW 6044), which is a sort of rich malted milk color, as well. (I don't recommend the color that is actually called "Malted Milk.") Any neutral that you like that goes more toward the mauve side and less toward the green will help. Notice I say "toward" - not all the way! A good way to test this is to collect some paint chips in pinky beiges, bring them home, and choose one or two that are closest to the colors in your tile. Take those back to the paint store with you, and hold up chips you are considering next to them. You will begin to see how some colors intensify the pink, and some pull it back toward creamy beige.

*lacunosa - attractive, small leaves, fragrant flowers (floral fragrance), compact, hanging *variegated kentiana - attractive, variegated leaves, compact, hanging, never seen flower, but assume it smells like regular old kentiana...caramel scented *deykeae - beautiful, elongated heart shaped leaves. Splashes on leaves, and nice veining. Pretty flowers with a nice fragrance (hint of citrus). Trellised (easily on 18 inch trellis)or wrapped around and up hanging pot. *mindorensis - plain jane leaves, but flowers are amazing balls of fuzzy and come in a rainbow of colors. Trellised (easily on 18-24 inch trellis) or wrapped around and up hanging pot. *balansae - pretty little leaves, pretty little flowers, easily grown hanging, twined around and up hanging pot. *incrassata - attractive foliage, which can come in an array of styles, from variegated to plain. Needs a bit of space, but could easily be maintained around a 3 foot trellis. *clemensiorum, finlaysonii, callistophylla - all similar, yet different in their leaf looks. Boldy, high contast veins with beautiful leaves, ranging from dark to light green, many with splash patterns on them. Small, pretty flowers with a light citus fragrance. Easily grown wrapped around and up a hanging basket or on a 18-24 inch trellis. *australis - can get big, but easily maintained with cuttings (don't cut areas with peduncles, or you won't get blooms on the mother plant, unless she has some still, or she grows more..this goes for all hoyas). Can be grown hanging or on a 24 inch to 3 foot trellis. Beautiful, fragrant flowers. *pachyclada - EARLY to put on peduuncles and bloom (in my experience), pretty yellow cream flowers, likes it slightly drier (water once every 8-10 days). Thick, succulent leaves with beautiful color and aesthetically pleasing. *elliptica - gorgeous turtle shell leaves, compact, can be grown wrapped up and around hanging pot or easily on 18-24 inch trellis. Beautiful porcelain flowers with red or golden coronas. Subtle fragrance. *many of the pottsii varieties - beautiful leaves that get a red tinge grown in high light, pretty, fragrant flowers *scortechinii or sp. UT-001 - pretty leaves that get gorgeous veining in high light (leaf size is generally not big, but I have had a couple of ones that got a bit exhuberant with their growth). Pretty flowers! Most hoyas only want to be watered weekly (there are some that are less thirsty and some that like it a bit damper). Feed them when you water (1/4-1/2 strength water soluble fertilizer).

katie brings up a good point, but a half-a** paint job is only going to last so long. even a handyman is going to charge thousands. Read up on how cabinets should be properly sanded, primed, sanded again, and then painted, so you'll know the steps. If a cheap estimate is given to you, they'll prob just deglaze them apply a quick primer, and paint right over it. (and they'll leave everything in place) . after a few months the paint will chip. another option is to keep the skeleton base, (and even the drawers since they're a slab-face) and just get new doors. I had new doors added when I had my cabinets painted. Although, your doors really aren't that bad. At least they aren't arched. pickled oak before/after. new counters/ splash, and they coffered the tray ceiling (like you have) basically it will look like this before: and After, once painted (horrible handle placement though!) you could even add some glass in a few of the doors. Maybe paint the island a diff, darker color (these oak cabs were recently done. but your door style is better than this one) Trim out you island so the end panels look finished! do the island top in something like this, and the other counters in plain white then add some modern style handles similar to these. Do a simple tile backsplash.