Managing expectations on flooring install/refinish
melle_sacto
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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melle_sacto
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoOak & Broad
5 years agoRelated Discussions
What to expect in $$ for refinishing my HW &...
Comments (3)When you mention slab and Bruce, I'm assuming it's engineered. Chances could be slim it cannot be refinished successfully; either because of the thin wear layer or the slab itself may not have been prepped properly. Labor costs will vary everywhere. You could probably find some el cheapo guy that may do it for $ 1.00 a square foot or somebody that actually has the experience at $ 3- $ 5.00...See MoreOT - For those who have had wood floors installed/refinished
Comments (6)I would buy a scratch stick and fill it in myself. Because wood fillers stay forever tacky dirt will quickly collect over it. So I would take a paint brush and dip it into polyurethane and cover over it carefully. My floor is 50+ years old with nails holding it in place instead of the tongue & groove. Often the wood putty pops off a nail head and I just recover it again with new putty. I think this guy was lazy and didn't tell you the truth about the scratch but he should have filled it in with a stick or putty before he polyurethaned over it....See Morenew install + refinish existing
Comments (0)Hello! Work just wrapped up on our flooring project -- install 450 sqft new red oak to match existing 760 sqft red oak through rest of house, all top-nailed, and sand/refinish everything to match (natural unstained with satin finish). I'm no expert at wood flooring but noted some things that appeared to be of issue. I would like to address things with our flooring person but I also want to manage my expectations as I have a tendency to find all the flaws and miss the bigger picture. I'll post the photos in the next comment. thanks for feedback!...See MoreIs it possible to patch and refinish a pre-finished Bruce floor?
Comments (6)I second Johnson Floorings opinion. Red oak in the 2.25" width is SUPER common and very cheap to source. Sure some of the bevels are going to remain...but it is possible to mask the look with a deeper colour floor. When it comes to fading, that has more to do with the WINDOWS and the amount of UV light coming through than the wood. Most wood species NATURALLY fade. That's just the nature of UV rays. There are some STAINS that are NOT STABLE in sunlight. Those unstable stains are often the LIGHT OR MIDGRADE stains like gunstock. So you get a two-fold situation. 1. The wood fades (making the stain appear lighter) 2. The Stain fades (making the wood look lighter) This means you have a faded stain (very pale) on a faded wood (very pale) and you end up with (sigh...you guessed it) a very pale floor. What I know about cork flooring (which fades to off-white in 1 year) STAINS and UV is this: The DARKER the stain the more stable it is in direct sunlight (ie. bad windows with very little UV rating to them). In other words, if you go dark - as you seem to like this idea - you will find your floors are less prone to LOOKING faded. Sure the wood underneath with get lighter but the dark stain will RETAIN most of it's colour. And do yourself a favour by using the SUPER TOUGH finishes. Work with 3 coats of FINISH (don't let them talk you into a sealant/stain and 2 coats...pay the extra and go with 3 coats) of the HIGH END 2 part water based finishes. They are SUPER TOUGH. Bona Traffic HD is the Platinum Standard for toughness. It is followed closely by Loba 2K Supra AT which is harder to find but just as tough. Don't settle for 2 coats of oil based or low-end water based stuff. Go with 3 coats of FINISH. Your household has managed (you plus the previous owner) to 'kill' a 25 year finish in just 17 years. Admittedly the first 11 years was someone else....but it has still occurred. The factor finish is NOT aluminum oxide. Which means the toughest finish was NEVER used on those floors to begin with....See Moremelle_sacto
5 years agomelle_sacto
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoOak & Broad
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