Thanks all. Val, I was wondering why you sold your drop leaf table? Part of the reason for my post is wondering what the down side of it could be. I did put all three leaves in and the table still seemed solid, although there would have to be some "give" when you add so much to the surface. Probably too much analysis here, but I wonder why they don't make these tables anymore? When you expand them fully, do you give up a lot of stability? Oh, and the leaves were just placed under the table temporarily. They come in a box, and would be stored elsewhere. After reading my own post over again, I guess it sounds obvious that the Stickley table has a lot going for it. Just the concept; "Stickley vs. PB" is really a bit of a no brainer. The biggest reason to keep the PB table (besides cost) would be the solid, sturdy feel that it has. It also has a nice golden pine finish that is kind of a nice contrast with all the cherry I have in the kitchen already. I've got another photo that shows the whole kitchen a little better: The PB table has a chunkier, slightly rustic look that I actually like especially with a lot of the SW art and decor I have. The Stickley looks more refined. Bottom line is, it's got a name going for it, it's solid cherry, more of a "one of a kind" piece, and it wins the versatility award for sure. As far as $$$ goes, net loss for me after selling the PB table would be $850-1000 depending on how lucky I get on CL. For that, I would gain the aforementioned features of the Stickley table plus four additional chairs. I don't really need the chairs as I have 7 of the Windsors already, but they are nice and solid, and again very versatile. So, it's not like a CL find that you have to snap up before someone else does. It's definitely an investment that I need to think through, and I do appreciate your help. Does it still sound like a no-brainer?? Thanks

Does refacing makes sense if you not only like your layout, but like and want to keep your stone countertops? (I've been told that my marble counters will likely break if they tried to remove them to replace the cabinets.) (I ask because replacing cabinets where I live is around $50k (on up). Refacing (I'd just buy the doors - I'm handy enough to put them on/deal with hardware) is about $6k. I only need doors, not veneer on edging.)

newer, white oak is much better looking than that old 80's-90's oak Refacing does not cost as much as replacing. I just had my cabs painted and chose to reface the doors and drawer fronts. It was only 2K more. (on top of the painting. I got solid wood doors/drawers w/mdf center panels on the doors) I think your cabs would look great painted in a soft white . absolutely do the new doors. Here's what a nice white would look like w/shaker style doors and your granite: If you like the two tone, paint the granite in a black or a charcoal gray if you go w/the white. or, do the island in dark wood stain, and the other cabs in the white. Since you also have the granite up the back, I think the white would really help to lighten up the kitchen. (look into under cabinet lighting too) And of course once you remove that horrible florescent lighting, the new lighting will make a huge difference. Any way you could raise the ceiling while you're at it? there was a poster on here who had Cosmos granite and went w/Amish built quarter sawn white oak cabs. (I think all of her cabs were in the 10K range) they are beautiful and well made This is not the same oak that's on your cabs. if you want to reface them, go w/something like this and have the bases stained to match If you want to stay w/the wood, then do this. Do not do cherry. Cherry wood has a very red undertone and I don't think it will look good w/your granite. I'd stick w/the oak or even Hickory or Walnut. Yes, reface them. Do not go w/Lowes or HD, they will cost you double what you could procure on your own. contact a local cabinet maker. similar granite to yours. I like how they did glass in some of the uppers. also like the black subway tile w/the white grout. Notice the under cabinet lighting. your granite with more of a traditional style white cab If you want to paint them, you could get solid maple doors like I did and have those painted along w/your skeleton base cabinets. this wood is knotty alder w/a dark walnut stain and another one w/red oak cabs with a lighter stain. the doors are shaker and the drawers are a slab-front. The granite is leathered. if you did a cherry, it would look something like these.

Great questions, thank you all! Yes, in my mind the kitchen and the dinette are the same room. The transition in the photograph is the only transition in the house. On the hardwood side, the hardwood extends throughout the entire house. Here, it bumps up against the kitchen/dinette area, which has this vinyl glued onto plywood, which floats a half centimeter above the hardwood, creating a small trip hazard. Our style is definitely mid century modern with fun bohemian touches. We have a lot of artwork that’s fun and whimsical, and it’s a pretty small house. So while I’m open to a bold flooring choice, I also don’t want it to feel cluttered or busy. I love our hardwood and really wish it extended into the kitchen! But I’m worried if we got new hardwood installed in the kitchen/dinette area, it wouldn’t match and it would look weird. And I don’t want to pay to refinish the old hardwood, because it’s in good shape and it extends all through the house! That would be a lot of refinishing! So it seems like the best option would be...something else that’s not this horrible vinyl. Cork titles? A more updated vinyl? Having never had glued-on vinyl before, will I have to replace the subfloor when we pull it up? Should we get something installed on top of the vinyl that’s already there, or will that just further heighten the trip hazard?