Hi, No special technique, and no, I did not sand between coats. The only area I had a problem was with doors (and there are seven doors!)I ended up sanding off more drips than I think I've ever had to, then re-painting those areas, etc. I had no problem with the paint whatsoever on the molding, baseboards, vanity, etc. In hindsight, it probably would have been easier to remove each door and paint it horizontally. It just seemed like an enormous undertaking to remove all seven doors and spread them out somewhere, paint, let dry, replace, etc. We are in the south, so I have to paint inside (just too hot and humid outside), which limits my spreading-out space as well. Really really like the "white" though!

Latex is terrible paint for anything you care about. It's soft, it can't be prepped well for the next coat when it gets old; it takes months to "cure" even though it dries in an hour; it does not, by any means, look or feel anything like a good oil paint, in fact, in humid weather it can get very sticky, and there's virtually no way to get it to totally level out into that classic "satin impervo" look no matter how much Floetrol you put in it or how expensive a brush you use, though if you have a painter skilled in laying on latex they can get close, though with significantly more effort, or if you spry it, but spraying forces you to reduce it so much it degrades the paint. Downsides: oil does take overnight to dry, the solvents are not healthy to breathe; cleaning brushes takes an inordinate amount of thinner and slop buckets. Upsides: if you hire a good painter, you'll get a finish head and shoulders above latex. If I were doing a really nice interior, I'd be reluctant to slop latex on all that nice wood detail. As a former painting contractor, I can tell latex a mile away. I personally hate using oil, but I would never defend latex as great, or even particularly good, paint. Also note that if you can even get Ben Moore Satin Impervo oil in gallons, it has been reduced to high quality sludge through the removal of a lot of the solvents (VOCs) that made is so good. So be prepared to doctor it up with thinner or conditioners (Penetrol). The Impervo they sell in quarts to get past the VOC laws ("for metal only") is actually thin enough to paint with right out of the can. AS for yellowing, it does yellow with time but we're talking 15 to 20 years time--I have done over many many oil-based interiors, and the yellowing was kind of nice, if you were to ask me. I don't know what happened with the commenter above, no idea. Definitely not the norm.

I have painted furniture with Bittersweet mixed in Aura -- Sprayed and brushed. Not my favorite experience and that was with the extender added to Aura. A DIYer with a limited painting skillset I could see getting frustrated with using Aura on furniture. You can order the Satin Impervo Alkyd from My Perfect Color. Orders over $50 is free shipping. Could work well for you since you are sure of the color and it's a Ben Moore color they would be mixing for you. Here is a link that might be useful: Impervo Alkyd from My Perfect Color

Thanks, paintguy. "Advance ... the worst of both oil and latex in one product." LOL, I know, right?? I don't understand why anyone would want that. I did not find a white similar to BM's Simply White at Sherwin Williams today and they said they likely couldn't accurately duplicte it. The Regal line (high build) was recommended to me by the paint store for painting a door! I thought the Advance was waterbased alkyd, whatever that means, but waterbased or not, the word "alkyd" threw me?! I have used Aura on walls and really, really like it, but wasn't sure how it would work for trim, or especially on doors. I don't want the paint surfaces sticking to each other and peeling off!