I used satin impervo on my trim, kitchen cabinets, bathroom cabinets and wainscoting. As to scrubable, I've had no problem keeping offwhite cabinets clean for the last year, no wear marks or things like that. I also bought a gallon of the Advanced because I wanted to do something in a dark color and Impervo could not be tinted that dark. The Advanced dried faster and I had to work fast not to get brush marks, compared to the Satin Imprevo. Not bad, just different. You just have to know it's going to do this and plan your work accordingly. I did the bookshelf in stages and letting it dry instead of trying to do it all at once where I'd have to be blending into half dry paint. I only used the Advanced to paint one book shelf and then decided I didn't want to change to a brown after all. I Had the gallon retinted to a near black that I plan on using on my dining room table and chairs. BTW - I have always sanded between layers of paint with the Satin Impervo waterborne. It made a big difference, but I was painting unfinished Oak. But I sand between layers on all painted cabinetry/furniture. I've done it with walls too - DH say's I'm anal about paint. . . I recently bought a gallon of alkyd enamel from SW for my entry. Now that was some very nice paint to work with! Drys with a non-shiny but rich finish (not they typical "flat" look). I put chocolate brown over a mustard yellow, and it covered easily. Did it all with a paintbrush too. I put a one part epoxy paint on my ceiling and really liked that, but I wanted a dark brown for the entryway and the salesman recommended I go with the alkyd as the epoxy did not come in a dark base. About flipped when I saw the price, but he gave me a good deal on it. Going forward, if I had a place where I wanted a durable paint, I'd pay the $90 a gallon for that.

ProClassic leaves a beautiful finish-as good as oil without the smell, mess and eventual yellowing. I'm using the Satin now for trim in a large hobby room. Some tips: Use a Chinex brush (Corona or Purdy are good); dip your brush and shake off excess, but don't scrape off excess on side of paint pail or it gums up too quickly; work as quickly as you can; don't put it on too thickly, so it doesn't drip or run-plan on doing two thinner coats-sand lightly between coats; don't over brush-apply evenly, brush a few times to spread, do a finishing stroke from bottom to top, then move on always keeping a wet edge; if you see a drip after you've moved on, you can probably soak it up with a brush tip, but if you see sags, let them go-after it dries, sand smooth and touch up-it will look fine. You will see brush strokes while you're working, but magically as the paint dries, the strokes level out. If you're planning on painting for hours, get two brushes and trade off. I don't like it when the brush starts to get gummed up. If the paint seems to get thick, add a few drops of water and stir. I tried the Floetrol, but didn't think it made that much difference. If you have some scrap pieces of trim or shelving, practice on it a bit. If not, practice in an inconspicuous spot first-like the inside of a closet or behind a door you usually keep open. Trim is not hard with ProClassic, IMO. The learning curve for painting doors was much longer.

I'm also reading that Proclassic semi-gloss is pretty close to Satin Impervo in sheen, and Proclassic satin is pretty flat, anyone know if that's that true? If I get the Proclassic, I'm wondering if I should get semi-gloss instead of satin. I can't actually find a paint store around here that has the Satin Impervo, so that may not be an option.

I haven't used Satin Impervo Waterborne for some time, but when I did, it seemed to go on like any premium acrylic brand of paint. It dries fast and you will struggle with fast drying paint when you are painting doors. Sure, use a conditioner as that will help it to dry slower. When you paint a door, you have to do it in sections and you have to make a plan. When you paint a section, you cannot go back into that section with your brush after 30 seconds. What I usually do is paint all panels first and when I paint a panel, I do not get any paint outside of that panel. If I am painting several doors at once, I may even paint all the panels on all the doors first and then come back and hit the flats.....horizontal areas first and then the left and right sides. Also, you have to put the paint on heavy...the only way for a paint to dry with a minimal amount of brushmarks is if the paint can settle down into itself as it dries. I'm not saying to put it on so heavy so that it sags of course...you want to find that perfect medium in between too heavy and too light and this takes practice. All that said, a lot of pros these days have just accepted that the modern day paints dry too fast to be brushed, so we just roll them. It's what I do. If you are using a self levelling paint, you can almost get a rolled door to dry with very little stipple from the roller. I use a small 4" roller, 3/8" nap that fits inside all of the panels. Other guys will roll and then backbrush...this way, the roller is just being used as a tool to get the paint on faster. Brushing a door, you will waste a lot of time actually travelling your brush to and from the can to get dips of paint. Using the roller helps to simply apply the paint much quicker. After it is rolled, you can choose to backbrush or not which is really just a matter of personal preference. Some people just don't like any stipple from the roller at all.