A picture really would help, but I think I understand what you have done, and what your questions are. Can a large cutting of Euphorbia re-root? Almost certainly yes. If there is no rot, a large section of Euphorbia can easily stay alive for a year or more with no roots, and subsequently no water. The actions you took, starting with doing some research of your own, were all correct, and will give your plant the best possible chance for survival. Rooting hormone can help, but only when applied to a fresh cut. It sounds like yours has already callused over, and I wouldn't bother cutting it again just to apply rooting hormone. After you cut off/out the rotting flesh, you have to let the wounds dry and callus over. This can easily take weeks, especially in a cold, damp climate like I imagine you live in. Just keep it cool, but not cold, and also keep it dry. Once all the wounds are callused over (the rule of thumb is one week per inch of diamter), you can pot the plant into a soil mix. Euphorbias need a very coarse, free draining mix. For rooting, I would use pure pumice (not avaiable on your side of the pond, but for us yanks its the best) perlite, turface, or similar. Don't bother with any organic components. As you already mentioned, the plant is top heavy and without a base. Make sure to support or brace it some way to keep it from falling over. I use heavy gravel in the pot to act as a ballast or counterweight, and for really big plants, some sort of guy wires. Its ugly and unwieldy, but it works. The pot you use shouldn't be much bigger in diameter than the stem itself and shouldn't be too deep either. If the stem was 4" for example, a 6" standard or a 6" rose pot half filled with gravel would be my choice. I promise you it will look really silly, but once it has regrown some roots, you can transplant into a more appropriate looking pot. After you've potted the cutting into your coarse, free draining mix, you'll just have to be really, really patient. And whatever you do, don't give it a single drop of water until you are *certain* there is new growth at the growing points. If you water too early, it will start the rot all over again. Place it in a warm (but not hot), and bright location. Direct sun is probably a bit strong, but then again, that far North, it probably wouldn't hurt. Patience really is the key here. It probably won't do a thing until your weather warms up, and the daylight increases. Even then it may take months, if not a *year* to grow roots again. Fight the temptation to water! After a couple months, you can very carefully offer it sips of water, but don't soak the soil until you are absolutely certain there are roots, as evidenced by the new growth up top. In the mean time, be on the look out for more rot. If you missed a rotting section, or if the problem is more systemic, you may find more surgery is required. As a last ditch effort, you can cut the last few inches of each growing point and root them in the same fashion. At this point though, that is probably too drastic. Again, keep an eye out for rot progressing up from where the roots used to be. Now, be warned that all of this advice will be useless if your plant was already in very poor health. Unfortunately, these type of plants don't do very well grown indoors, and will usually end up weaker and more disease prone because of it. Then again, if it has gone 10 years, it couldn't have been doing that bad. If you have any other questions, or if something wasn't clear, please ask. It really is a shame to lose such a close "friend," and none of us want to see that!

Cleo, I think your plant was just adjusting to the change. If that is a haworthia or a hybrid thereof, then it will just be approaching the end of its growing season. Haworthias grow in spring and autumn. In the hottest part of summer, they go dormant. They also slow down in the coldest part of the winter. Most of my haworthias are in pure pumice but I also have some in about 40 percent potting soil and 60 percent pumice (I just never got around to repotting them). In zone 7, I water weekly during spring (March to mid-June) and in July, I stop watering. I resume watering in September and slow down on watering around November, when they are brought indoors. Even in winter I water maybe every two to three weeks, I really dont worry too much. The kind you have is one of the sturdier ones (might even been an aloe hybrid?) But as long as its out of the pot, you might as well mix up a better kind of potting mix. I strongly recommend more perlite than soil in your mix. You can water it as soon as you have it potted up---the best way is to water around the plant, closest of the walls of the pot and away from the rosette. If your nights are still going below 16C, you can probably still water it weekly. Keep it in bright shade for the moment though, and probably throughout summer. You don't need to fertilize it until autumn, it won't need it until it has recovered fully from being disturbed. Hope this helps Pagan

I see little 'nubs' that will grow into roots; but it also looks rotted. Not quite sure, since you said it is wet...I would let it air dry; get rid of any rotting (if present) and treat as any cutting. I usually use mix of grit and perlite, but you should be able to root it in perlite. Stick it in, keep it on dry side for a while. They usually root well, unless there is rot left.

Hello Rahmi T W , hank you for sharing The good thing is your problems are easily fixed. It has plenty of good roots left. I find most H. cymbiformis not having very deep roots. Their roots do rot quickly. I don't know how quickly container plants dry in your hour or outside. You were correct to water less often, but you may need to water even less than a week. You should check with your finger. (inserting your finger to the depth of your finger's second (middle) knuckle. Make sure your container has drainage holes!! What does black lava sand look like? Sand used for succulents should be gritty, NOT fine. Very Fine sand compacts, creating a dam. Compost is heavy & holds lots of water. You need to add something to make the soil light and something to create sizeable air pockets. I do not know what is readily available your area. In my area people use perlite, pumice, bark mulch, heavier grit sand and other lava rocks. They each provide the soil air pockets and help with drainage. To lighten the soil, we use coconut coir, peat moss, bark mulch & rice husk. As you probably noticed back mulch can serve as both, but only if is ground fine with some visible pieces. You can look up all the difference online, but here are a few; Perlite is very light. You can crush with your hands. Hold almost no water and no nutrient.) Pumice is a lava rock, it hold some moisture. I also is good at holding nutrients (& has some) for the plants to access Left to Right; Pumice (medium size grade), Pumice (small size grade), Black lava medium, Perlite Sorry, I did not have any plain small grade pumice. It varies from gritty sand to the larger pieces in the picture. I use both sizes. This is soil from four different local growers. The far right is same person with different type of plant. We all use different additives, but we all have some lightness and good drainage. You can see the back mulch. She used mostly bark mulch with some pumice & coir My soil below is a little overboard, but I like it I use one part container potting soils with compost (two different types), 1 part pumice (2:1 med-small), 1 part perlite (I usually end up adding more of the container soil.) The container soils I use have; Compost, Coconut Coir, Peat, Azomite, Zeolite & Seaweed This is a Haworthia, I am planning on dividing. It doesnt have much for root (recently potted)