First of all, don't use bleach. Bleach will not kill established mold. The properties of bleach don't allow it to penetrate into porous materials...the water that carries the sodium hypochlorite (the actual "bleach") will penetrate, but the chlorine will not. Household bleach is essentially 94% water and 6% sodium hypochlorite, so straight out the bottle or diluted, your killing the surface mold but feeding it's roots when the water saturates the material. For mold, use a quaternary ammonium chloride product like Shockwave. IF the mold is deep-rooted in difficult materials, it might take a couple of applications. As has been mentioned, some of your other staining looks like iron build up, you can use a product like Iron Out, or a product like CLR. It might be that the plastic itself is stained, so treatment may not be satisfactory. You can unscrew the shower head (or handheld unit as a whole) and soak it in CLR or Iron Out. That might dissolve and clean off some of the discoloration. You might have hard water deposits on the metal. CLR should help with those. Or use a bit of vinegar. Vinegar is a mild acid that might dissolve those mineral depostis, if that is indeed what they are. Older jetted tubs tended to hold water in the plumbing pipes after the tub had been drained, so there may be some nasty stuff within. You could fill the tub with hot water, run it, let it soak, then add Iron Out and/or Shockwave or a commercial jetted tub cleaner to the same water, run it, let it soak, run it, drain, refill with clean water, run to rinse, drain, and see if that helps. Mold spores are everywhere. EVERYWHERE. They'll thrive in the correct environment. Cool, moist, etc. You can take away the "moist" with effective bathroom ventilation. Good luck!

All clear! Wow that was a lot of work. 6 weeks ago we decided to fix up our mudroom/laundry room for mostly aesthetic reasons since you have to walk through it to get to soon to be brand new kitchen. We've wanted a counter and sink in there so this was a great time to do it so we could have a really nice temporary kitchen area. I busted my butt til 2am last night to get that room ready to receive our temp kitchen items. PHEW! DH cleaned out the current kitchen yesterday. It's truly amazing how many things we have that have not been used in 15+ years. We'll purge while moving back in. My strategy is to put in place what I know we use regularly and leave the rest packed. Next summer, we'll have a garage sale with whatever is left in boxes. If we haven't sought out an item in a year, we certainly don't need it. I still can't get over how much useless stuff we were storing. We hooked our fridge up in the mudroom, but now I really want to tackle cleaning that out too. IÂm sure itÂs the same deal with an extensive pickle and jelly collection that just needs to end up in our compost pile.

You should be able to find videos on YouTube. Search for "whirlpool dryer belt replacement" as a starting point. There's more than one design with slightly different disassembly procedures so keep searching until you find some that match your machine's design. This is a typical Whirlpool top-filter model. UNPLUG the power cord! Remove the two screws under the lint filter door. The top is hinged at the rear corners, released by two clips near the front corners (depress with a putty knife inserted into the seam below the top while lifting the top upwards). There are screws inside that anchor the front panel to the cabinet, and possibly one of the two screws on the door hinges may also need to be removed (usually not both so the door stays attached to the front panel). Tilt the front panel slightly forward and lift upward to remove it. The front rim of the drum is supported by a lip on the front panel, so the drum will drop slightly down when the front is removed. Removal of the drum for full access inside requires detaching the belt from the motor pulley. Pay attention (take pictures?) to how the belt routes through the idler assembly.

Floating floors are not loud if the proper underlay is used . I have laminate in my last 2 homes in my kitchens , i run a catering biz from both of those homes. I have installed laminate under cabinets but I think it depends on where you live if there are huge fluctuations in humidity it is porbably not the best . But a good installer can make sure the flooring goes under where the toe kick will be and make sure they undestand that at the beginning on your contract. Then there is no need for 1/4 round .As for the choice btween LVP and laminate both will not survive a flood and BTW either will tile or hardwood.