lets be realistic ... if it grows like wildfire ... it is probably in the wrong place .... if it were me ... i would move it completely, AT THE APPROPRIATE time ... which i do not know for your zone .... and replace it with something more suited to the primary focus point of your home .... this is the place where you make your first impression to the world ... it should not be a place for a rather aggressive plant that needs to be whacked to the ground two or three times a year to keep it in shape ... as the root structure continues to mature... severe pruning of the top is only going to lead to more and faster top growth .... is this really what you want in its current location .... if it grows like the weed you suggest it is.. it will take to transplant rather easily ... if done at the appropriate time good luck ken

Staggering the removal as Karen L suggests seems a good idea, other than Privets self sow like mad. What about a structure to shade the area while the replacement grows? What about something temporary that grows quickly but can be removed once the desired replacement grows? Your original question was what to plant instead of the dreaded privets that pop-up on every fenceline in Sactown. I have a similar situation but don't need the shade, just the screening effect. I am considering a Bronze loquat or Chindo Viburnum. The Chindo is supposed to be fairly speedy to get height. I've seen a few pictures where it was limbed up. I haven't found any locally but Forest Farms has had them in the past and Monrovia lists them.

Judy- I googled organic controls and found this website that might have some good ideas for you. I find that having a wide diversity of plants and trying to have continual bloom for beneficial insects goes a long way toward controlling pests. Letting some dandelions bloom every year then removing the seed heads, letting some overwintering Brassicas like Wild Red Kale, collards, turnip greens, etc. bloom in spring, having dedicated mint beds, looking for flowers that bloom in succession, all help with that. Nancy -----------------------------site- BIOLOGICAL CONTROLS Enhancing the environment for the natural predators of scale is a long-term strategy with the benefits increasing over time. Natural enemies of scale include ladybeetles, lacewings, spiders and tiny parasitoid wasps (pictured). Many beneficial insects that feed on garden pests need nectar and pollen for food during part of their lifecycle. Growing a year-round supply of suitable flowers will maintain beneficial insect populations throughout the year, try planting a Good Bug Mix. Small insect-eating birds are also helpful in controlling scale; attract them by providing safe nest sites and a constant supply of water. Try to keep any birds visiting your garden safe from cats. PHYSICAL AND CULTURAL CONTROLS The first step is always to control any ants, as without their protection the abundance of natural enemies in an organic garden will usually be able to keep scales under control. Keep ants out of your trees by banding the trunks with horticultural glues or grease bands. Prune any low branches that are touching the ground and make sure tall stems of grass aren't providing an alternative route for the ants. On indoor plants small colonies of scale can be rubbed off by hand, wear garden gloves and dip a toothbrush or a cotton bud in a soap solution. In the garden very heavily infested twigs can be pruned off, dropped into a bucket of soapy water, then composted or mulched. LEAST TOXIC CHEMICAL CONTROLS The best time to control scales is when the crawlers have recently emerged, as they are more vulnerable to organic sprays than the adults with their thick shells. Correctly identifying the scale will help you to time this exactly but mid-summer is common. Frenetic ant activity can indicate scale-hatching periods. Insecticidal soap sprays such as Natrasoap work by blocking the breathing pores and dissolving the scales outer covering so they dehydrate and die. Commercial soap sprays are based on potassium and will not harm beneficial insects and have a very low toxicity to people or pets. Oil sprays such as Pest Oil or Eco Oil kill all stages of scale insects by suffocation which is a physical impact rather than a pesticidal action. It has a low impact on beneficial insects. If you plan to spray, wait for settled weather with little wind and no rain. Spray in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid burning the leaves and to reduce the impact on beneficial insects Wettable sulphur or lime sulphur can be sprayed in winter to control white louse scale on citrus. Here is a link that might be useful: organic scale control

Thanks everyone. When she has managed to escape the collar, the collar is open, so the clasp is somehow coming undone. This has happened a couple times when our daughter has been watching her, and I just assumed she hadn't done the closure properly. But I did the buckle this morning myself. And, after she escaped the first time, I am certain I did it properly the second time, with no hair getting caught, etc. So it's either defective, or she's doing it with her paws which is very hard to believe. I've tried pulling it apart myself and it won't pop open--but I guess I'm not as strong as a determined 7-lb puppy. I have a call in to the manufacturer to find out if it's a break away. Luckily this has only happened while we're in the house and not on a walk. Thanks for your help!