Since you want a dense hedge, you should start pruning before the height you want is reached, so I would severely shorten back, by half or more, any long shoots. However, since you want to give any new growth subsequent to pruning time to harden off before winter, I might, depending on where you are located, and when your first hard freeze is usually (and on when your area stays frozen), wait to do my pruning until spring. You may get some winter die-back anyway, so better to do your shaping in the spring, when you can tell what is dead and what is growing. Next year, I would do any trimming of long shoots as I see them, keeping to your rough shape while allowing for growth. It may be "slower" to establish the shape roughly now, and keep it roughly trimmed, but it will grow up much more densely than if you let shoots grow to the height you want and then cut them. I would do a lightish clipping several times a season, to establish and keep the shape you want. Just remember that hedges need to be narrower at their tops than at their bases - shaded branches are MUCH more apt to die out on you. The ultimate shape can be with a square top or with a rounded top, but the sides should slant down to the ground, growing wider as they go - it can be a very slight taper, but it MUST taper.

Musaboru, I have 3 Wedding Cake roses on their own root from Burlington. I was warned that they probably wouldn't do as well on their own root as grafted but I wanted the own root anyway. I probably ordered them two years ago, got them 9 months later, potted them up in one gallon (they were very tiny) and had to wait another year before they were big enough to put in the ground. So far, they are doing OK. They still are small (less than 2 feet tall and less than a foot wide) but I think they will do better their second year in the ground. That said, they handle the heat well and have interesting color variations on the flowers depending on how long they have been on the plant. I get lots of compliments on them. If they were bigger, I would send you cuttings. I have had very good luck with cuttings from Ralph Moore roses. Lavendar Crystal is one of my favorites. Just stick a cane in the ground and it will grow. Love that rose. It is a beauty.

JAYK I feel (from my experience in local rose clubs and as the former internet consulting ARS rosarian for scientific studies (or some such title) that gardeners have had problems but they were not in a position to question "no underground spread" and had to assume that it must of been drift in spite of whatever precautions they took (I doublt if most knew about the possibilty of weed root to desired plant root transmission). Apparently Monsanto knew: earlier in this thread I quoted the following from another thread (the You was not you nor I): "You mentioned roses. This has been disputed before on GW but roses have many fine surface roots and weeds with similar roots mixed together with the rose roots, the roots are in contact with each other and translocation of the herbicide can take place. Glyphosate kills roots and all so it can kill the rose. This info was quoted to me a few years ago by a Monsanto representative." The scientific reviewed papers that I cited did not "all" agree that it only happened in exceptional purposes. For example I cited a 2006 paper: "There is a common understanding that the widely used herbicide glyphosate is easily degraded and adsorbed in soils and thus, harmless for use in agriculture. We can demonstrate, however, that this conclusion is wrong and dangerous for farmers because in former risk assessments the behaviour of glyphosate in the rhizosphere was not properly considered." Notice that the scientists, editor, and reviewers approved "wrong and dangerous". In my experience as a scientist I expect that the producers of farm glyphosate products would have immediately assigned their in house scientists and/or commissioned paid research to see if they could produce scientific evidence to disprove the paper. The paper was in 2006, I could not find any such disputing paper (apparently you were not able to either); instead I found a November 2007 published paper that supported it. Yes, there are conditions that favor spread and condition that will inhibit spread. Nature is complex. But to attempt to lump all conditions that favor spread into (the following is a quote from a statement that JAYK made in this thread): "unusual circumstances to create this movement, circumstances that are almost never seen in typical gardens." is in my mind the opposite of the actual situation, home gardens with acidic sandy loam soil are very common (even desired - "In general the best pH value range for soil is approximately 6 or 7 as this is the range in which most nutrients can be readily available" - http://www.gardenstew.com/blog/e3-9-soil-ph-and-its-effect-on-your-garden.html . Home gardens with high phosphate concentration (and acidic pH) are also very common - http://searchwarp.com/swa290149.htm. When scientists talk about sandy loam soil they are not talking about "very, very sandy soil situation" - see JAYK's first post, they are actually talking about a common soil: "Sandy loam topsoil is a material that most farmers are familiar with. Although unusual in urban Houston, it can be found north of town. It can be purchased or trucked in from a sight you are familiar with." It is common for gardeners to use a sandy loam soil mixed with compost" "Most experts find the best soil combines compost with a sandy loam topsoil." The quote is from the same link. H. Kuska comment - please note - compost has an acid increasing effect.

the counters and cabs/backsplash/wall color/floor all in differing tones/colors or textures will make things pop because the eye moves around at all the interruptions between the elements. This can be useful in a very large space or the desire for an eclectic look. This is in essence "making the kitchen look smaller". It is not so desirable if in reality the kitchen IS small to begin with...In a small space, where presumably the goal would be to "expand the visual look" or "not feel closed in" then choosing the elements with minimal breaks between the tones/textures/colors from floor to cabs to counters backsplash and wall colors [and appliances] is a fairly reliable approach. It isn't that you need an all white kitchen to make a small space expand, in fact, dark hardwood floor with medium to dark cabs and that darker granite will work....but then at the walls do glass doors or open shelves so that at eye level you have a little more expansive visual line by reducing the dark wood. You must start with cabinets really, because they are the biggest cost-what do you like?-in your smaller space you can work with your desired look by using care in choosing the layers of elements that have similarity as opposed to contrast.