Mamapinky - that was a really great response. Your explanation then leads to a request to tell us your recs for enzyme-free detergent (I feel like the detergents with enzymes are all over the place, reviewed frequently, etc. so no need for recs on those), and recs for detergents without OBs (I believe everyone likes Cheer powder for that, is that correct, and are there any others?).

Does viscose/rayon count as a natural fabric for which one should not use enzymes?

Go Mamap ❤️

Cj, viscose is made from wood pulp. In my mind it's natural, however I think it's classified as a natural synthetic..whatever that means. I would not use enzymes. Another thing viscose becomes very weak when wet so should be laundered even more carefully than wool or silk. I have not had good results washing viscose, both times shrinking was substantial. Viscose used to always say dry clean only because of the great possibility of shrinking and becoming distorted in shape..IMO it's way more finicky than any other fabric.

Shannon, Thank you. You might be surprised at my favorable enzyme free detergent. ..Purex liquid. I find it does a great job on wool and down, is budget friendly, and smells nice. But read the jug as some Purex does have enzymes.

As for OB free detergent, I like Cheer powder. I'm not aware of any other OB free at the grocery stores that are anything other than flavored water. ALL does make a OB free but can only be bought at commissarys, it's sold there only so military uniforms don't glow in the dark. I begged the manufacture to sell it mainstream but no luck. Hopefully someone else will chime in with a few more recs for you. But your right powder Cheer is widely recommended here do to being OB free and with 3 enzymes it does a darn good job. The scent is light and old fashioned not overbearing and sweet, it contains a special ingredient to neutrilize chlorine in tap water to help prevent fading, and the price is nice. Lol. I am not a Cheer rep...LOL

Bjorn, LOL.

Thank you, Mamapinky0.

viscose has crept into so many clothes today because of its nice soft feel and good drape — close fitting t-shirts, pajamas, etc. But the care labels say wash in cold water and lay flat to dry, which of course is a bit of a chore when you have to do this for too many items. Plus I have ruined more than one expensive viscose shirt through ironing. It seemingly will melt/ stretch.

When I can, I want to wash clothes at home rather than dry clean, but some viscose has proved challenging.

Hcbm) didn't you wash viscose not long ago successfully?

CJ, Your Welcome, yep it must be layed flat, and no twisting or wringing if hand washed. Seems like to much fiddling around IMO, even silk is easier. LOL.

Hey all, sorry for being awol. I had company coming for a few nights so was getting groceries, cleaning bathrooms and generally scrambling.

Im going to spend some time in my laundry supply cupboard to see what I have that is with or without enzymes.

My husband developed serious skin issues a few years ago which resulted in us switching to detergents that were dye and fragrance free. So I have a supply of mild stuff but no idea what is what. My husband has settled on the Charlie’s packets for his wash. For me personally, I usually buy detergent based on scent.

I am seriously considering making a chart for myself, once I get a better handle on what and how to wash correctly.

So before my guests wake up and wander over from the guest house I’m going to go start my inventory.

Enzymes only need to be avoided on natural fabrics, wool, down, silk, ect.

Natural fabrics are classified according to their origin. The vegetable, or cellulose-base, includes cotton, flax, hemp and jute. The animal, or protein-base, includes wool, mohair, and silk. Enzymes should not be used on protein based natural fibres.

Ditto what Ali has said above. Avoid enzymes on protein based/sourced fibers --- silk, wool, down, mohair, cashmere, etc.. If it came from an animal (or insect in the case of silk) enzymes will slowly destroy it. Plant-based fibers can handle enzymes.

What is also really important, IMO, is to separate whites & lights from darks, to keep colors from running or bleeding and affecting the lighter fabrics.

Another tip that requires more loads and work, but I do it.

When I moved to a house that has the washer draining into a laundry sink I noticed how much color is transferred from the material to the water. Red loads yield red water, dark blue loads yield dark blue water.......so on.... Now I separate lights from darks, but go one step farther and separate by color family. I wash reds with other reds, light blues with other light blues, browns with browns and so on.

Color transfer is mainly noticeable on cotton fabrics, and since that is the majority of my loads I think this helps keeps the colors as pure as they can be. As I said above, this does make more loads to deal with, but my washer shortens the cycle time for smaller loads so It has worked out for me.

I try to do this too, to some extent. It seems like reds are the worst for color transfer. They almost have to be washed by themselves. And then of course once you do additional sorts by fabric type, you are doing lots of different types of loads and spending lots of time doing laundry.

Many people don’t want to trouble with the sorting and multiple loads and multiple types of detergents and cycle types. I know some people who use their washing machine as their dirty clothes basket, tossing all types of laundry in without distinction. When the washer is full, they add soap and press go.

I collect our reds and dark pinks and wash them together, separate from regular laundry, too. Red is a notoriously unstable color, most of the time. Yet, this week I accidentally had a dark red cotton dishcloth sneak into a load of whites, and the color did not run, at all! I was shocked ... and relieved.

Seriously, I need a compact washer because I tend to over-sort. Our clothes last a long time. LOL

yes, under this approach clothes look better and last longer. What doesn’t last longer is your washing machine. miele’s 10,000- 15,000 hour life for their residential machines turns out to come more quickly than their frequently quoted 15-20 year life span, as many people have found .

Hi Mama, and yes I wash viscose, also known as rayon successfully. I now own quite a bit of it. I notice the sleep pants shrink in length at least 3-4 inches if 100% rayon. The knit tops less but they usually have cotton in them.

I use Cheer on the darks and colors and right now All powder on whites and lights. I wash on warm and usually don't dry them In the dryer. I am not very careful, I hang them up to dry. I put the items in net bags after I found them getting holes. With the use of the bags I haven't noticed any new holes. I have dried a top or two by accident with little to no shrinking. But I have short arms and the tops are long so I may not have noticed. My sleep pants are all top short if I dry them as I have long legs.

One thing I have noticed if rayon is mixed with cotton they don't seem to pill. However, any item I have bought that is a mix of rayon and synthetic pill to the point I can't wear the item. They feel itchy and shrink worse than the cotton.

It may take a little more time, but most of my clothes are over 10 years old and look good. Plus smaller loads means less weight and stuff that the machine has to deal with. Everyone does what turns out best for them. This type of sorting has worked out for me although my machine is 16 years old so it might have a few years left but I think it all works out in the end.

"However, any item I have bought that is a mix of rayon and synthetic pill to the point I can't wear the item."

The synthetic ---usually polyester--- is the culprit in pilling. It is a stronger fiber than others, and won't break off like natural fibers will. Therefore, lint and short fibers that have broken off, from friction of being worn or tumbling around in the washer & dryer, have a lovefest with the poly. They get tangled up and, voila, pilling.

"What doesn’t last longer is your washing machine. miele’s 10,000- 15,000 hour life for their residential machines turns out to come more quickly than their frequently quoted 15-20 year life span"

True. Well, I have to pick my poison. It will cost the same to replace our clothes as to replace the washer, over time, so I choose the clothes lasting a long time. And having an elderly dog with random nighttime incontinence, necessitating her bed getting washed in Sanitize cycle, isn't helping. Ugh..

BTW, she is checked for UTI frequently, and that is not always the cause, though UTI is generally a cause for sudden bed wetting in dogs. I've spent a fortune on this at the veterinarian.......

I came to this forum as a reader several years ago when our newish front loading washing machine deconstructed. I read that the way I was washing could have contributed to it's demise. I spent weeks here gathering the combined wisdom of the folks on this forum with mamap as the head guru along with many others who really knew their stuff. I sifted through it all, ending up with dozens of electronic pages which I then sorted according to topic; soaps, temps, machines, water types, fabrics, habits, needs, etc. In the end I made a chart, which I still refer to, that tells me which type of soap to use, what temp the water should be, which spin, etc.

This forum changed everything for us. Our clothes are cleaner, brighter, smell "washed" instead of perfumed or funky.

I had always sorted lights from darks, but I did not pay attention to the difference between a white pillowcase and a white jersey.

I didn't consider the difference between washing polyester exercise clothes vs a similarly colored cotton shirt.

I didn't realize that the water coming into my house in the winter was going to be a lot colder than the water in the summer.

I thought washing everything in cold water was the best thing to do because it was good for the environment plus the clothes "would get just as clean." Ha!

I had never heard of optical brighteners or how everything changed when phosphates were removed from soaps.

I didn't know that clothes made with man made fibers were water phobic and needed more room to swim around in the washer to get clean.

I had even forgotten exactly what soap does chemically to get dirty things clean.

I am very grateful to the folks on this forum who actually changed my life for the better.

"However, any item I have bought that is a mix of rayon and synthetic pill to the point I can't wear the item."

my experience is that when rayon is mixed with a bit of Lycra, it does not tend to pill.

As far as sorting clothing by color and fabric type goes, and matching to the best detergent, temperature, and laundry cycle and options, once you start it is hard to stop. clean and well cared for clothes are the reward for learning something about laundry science.