benjesbride - the house is a typical city "shotgun" layout - each room is the width of the house and leads to the next w/o and halls, etc. There is an enclosed porch = office, living room, dining room, then the kitchen is at the rear of the house. We can add some room to the kitchen from that end if we take space away from the DR, but cant actually change its location. mama goose_gw zn6OH - I haven't figured out appliances at all. I was planning to just buy the most affordable pieces that come recommended here : ) The hood and range is on an interior wall separating the kitchen and the dining room. I think we probably could reverse the swing on the basement door. What benefit would that add? blfenton - The window across from the range faces south, and the one over the sink faces south west. The two by the table face southeast, however they look out to the neighboring house, which is barely 6 feet away. sena01 - never thought to alter the space in front of that long hall! A pantry would be amazing. I didn't think I could get one in, but was hoping increasing the number of top cabinets would give me enough storage. Another idea I had was to take the exterior landing (upper right) and enclose that so I could add more footage to the kitchen and change the point of entry. Just not sure if I would be gaining enough space to warrant the cost of adding an extension. I was planning to increase the opening leading in from the dining room, but worry that would make it even harder to maximize space. The funny thing is that this kitchen is quite literally double the size of our last two, but somehow doesn't feel as though it can look or feel spacious due to the doors and window placements. Also, wondering what steps to take first? Architect, KD, GC? Will the architect understand kitchen function? If I go to the KD first, will that person have enough knowledge of structural concerns in order to take moving walls, existing gas lines, etc into consideration? Do I see a GC to price out the cost of changes with moving walls and adding an extension? Hmph - no idea!

If you, standing in your space, think you have room for a chair, there -are- some nice small recliners (I just googled "small recliner"). https://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Simple-Living-Addin-Small-Reclining-Accent-Chair/4692753/product.html?refccid=QHUJ6IQEP2LI2ZCBH7MQ6TUK3Y&searchidx=7&keywords=&refinement= I don't know if these are truly smaller, but the fact that there are gaps, etc., in the arms makes them look visually smaller. https://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Brayden-Mid-Century-Wood-Arm-Recliner-by-iNSPIRE-Q-Modern/17769820/product.html?refccid=QHUJ6IQEP2LI2ZCBH7MQ6TUK3Y&searchidx=4&keywords=&refinement= https://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Riverside-Charcoal-Recliner/4450289/product.html?recset=0300f6c1-98f5-4497-8d12-fff3abfcec20&refccid=EPRARM6J6U6IOA2OMNXSNBMEB4&recalg=872,873,839&recidx=1 This one has space around the legs, which makes it seem less bulky and it's supposed to be smaller. https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/home-loft-concepts-erick-natural-linen-recliner-fome2881.html Ditto this one--it's 29" wide. https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/zipcode-design-yasmin-manual-recliner-zipc4803.html This one is interesting--it doesn't have a mechanism; it has notches to position the back at three different angles. See the video. And it's good wooden arms and legs, which will make it visually less bulky. https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/george-oliver-hinesburg-recliner-golv1717.html

If you don't want to actually wall off part of the living/dining space as a bedroom, then at least claim the entire wall between stairwell and exterior patio door wall for your "bedroom". Set your bed and your wardrobe and your chest of drawers against that wall. If you don't already have a twin bed for yourself, choose a quality metal twin bed frame with castors and without headboard of foot board -- one that, with appropriate pillows/bolsters, could pass as a day bed ... one that appears to be and could be used as seating; however, do NOT let anyone get in the habit of using it as seating or you'll end up with the side edge your mattress being worn and sagging in an uncomfortable way. (Aunt had this issue with her day bed when I was a child.) If you have any difficulty with physical activity, do not skimp on your mattress and box springs -- get the best of both and have the height of your bed be what you can use comfortably, such as swing your legs over the side and stand up rather than needing to climb up out of the bed. (Been there; done that -- too low is not good.) On a tight budget, consider checking with Habitat for Humanity Restore Store for good used wood furnishings -- wardrobe and chest of drawers -- and even the metal bed frame. Would not upholstered furnishings or mattress used. You might also try checking with other local charity sponsored thrift stores and/or used/antique/consignment stores.

I am not sure. I have another idea but I don't know if it is any better: What if the only full wall is beside the hallway then have a built-in 3'0" high (just enough to fit your fridge below). I would make that built-in 18" deep and run it all the way on that tv wall. You can put your tv on where you have it now and have storage on the left of it. On the right, it would be your fridge with some storage to the left for glasses etc. I would consider making the top of the built-in all the same material and put a table mat where your fridge is to protect the top. You can have shelves on the wall if you wish but I think I would not. Seeing the wall recessed compared to the bottom where you have your built-in would make the room feel bigger even though you use some floor space for your built-in. I would also make your closet 6'6" wide and deal with the problem of 2 persons being in that room at the same time. I think one can choose their clothes while the other is taking a shower. I think it is worth that compromise to keep your bathroom and office wider.