Deborah, there's a lot of weird comments in this thread !! Like roses not doing well in the Bay area for some reason or another. 'Peace' and any of the Austin roses (and most other hybrid teas for that matter) do perfectly well up here in the Puget Sound area and we are not any warmer than the Bay area......likely even a bit cooler overall. And probably receive a lot more annual rainfall as well. It is also not impossible to find a true rugosa - they are all over at area nurseries here. I live a block up from the beach and there are wild rugosas growing along the shoreline....and without a hint of mildew in our often foggy and damp and very cool maritime climate

The reason one window in the bedroom is operable is in order to meet the code requirement for an emergency escape and rescue opening in all bedrooms. I have many times advised homeowners on the GW to not allow a builder to use the cryptic convention of using 60 to mean 72" or 6'-0" on the elevation drawings. (By the way, in my experience, 60 means 72" as silly as that seems) All window sizes should be dimensioned in rough opening feet - inches for the benefit of the framer. All windows should be specified separately for the benefit of the supplier in a Window Schedule that shows the manufacturer, model, rough opening, glass type, color, mullions, hardware, etc. Otherwise you are asking for mistakes. You might ask the GC where the horizontal mullion/sash rail is in the middle of the windows that were ordered for the front of the house. Something stinks; I think someone is making you take responsibility for their unprofessional mistakes. I not only provide clients with window schedules, I insist on reviewing the order before it is submitted which is a tedious and thankless job since all manufacturers use different cryptic conventions for their order sheets. I have never checked an order where there wasn't a mistake and some of them would have been very expensive to correct after delivery. Sometimes a window manufacturer will make a mistake with a correct order but that can be corrected at no cost to the owner. The issue here is documentation. If the correct windows were documented all errors should be corrected at no cost to the owner with no debate. I should also add that in the past 40 years I've known only one GC to order through a lumberyard/box store instead of a wholesale window supplier and the resulting mistakes in that order were the worst I've ever seen.

Any of those Beth posted or a REAL travertine or limestone will always be ‘in’. A good quality natural wood look will be a sure bet as well. I’m personally a little leery of the grey wood look floors as I feel those will quickly read as a fad. You need to assess your furnishings that you wish to reuse - is everything ‘warm’ or ‘cool’. Typically, a natural wood look will work either way. The original tile you posted is very pink and would only work in the very warm family of colors. Good luck and again I wasn’t trying to be snarky :)

Okay, I need to choose a bathroom floor tile that works with the blue and white wall tile, and I was thinking something neutral white/off-white/gray with a slight texture so it doesn't look dirty all the time. Tile store suggested this, which looks a little like concrete. What do you think? I welcome suggestions! https://www.marazziusa.com/Products/Concrete-Look/Persuade/White Also, I did this very messy analog sample cut and paste, adding more tiles to an image the architect had made. I was trying to make it look like the pattern is dispersing as it moves toward the floor. I don't have images of all the tile patterns (I think there a dozen), so I couldn't arrange them very deliberately as far as what is near what, but this is kind of what I was going for.