muddy, The battens are 1x3 pre-primed pressure treated. I'm not sure why that decision was made, as that was on DH's plate, not mine. I can try to figure out pictures in the next couple days if you'll bear with me. I'm still figuring out the new camera. :) The only thing about my siding that I'm not crazy about is the caulking product we used. It was labeled as paintable, but it clearly didn't mean that it excelled in that department, because it is a PITA to get the paint to adhere to the caulk, which, since you have to caulk every seam, is everywhere. On the up side, once I experimented a little, I learned that spraying the house lightly 3 times usually did the trick. I am going to back and do touch-ups in the spring. As far as install was concerned, the PT wood was nice because its rough texture made it easier to caulk because I didn't need to try to make the caulk smooth, I just rubbed it to match the texture of the wood, if any of that makes sense... Will post pics ASAP.

I have Hardiplank on SEVEN homes which I own. Speaking from experience the James Hardy product is pure junk. It is highly hydroscopic, meaning iT absorbs water readily. Once the siding has absorbed water, paint peeling is the likely result. We observe that on the south, west and eastern sides of our homes paint peeling is generally less of a problem as the sun exposure warms the siding and drives out most of the moisture absorbed in a heavy rain. The northern exposures are a different situation and that's where paint peeling is the biggest problem. In coastal locations Hardiplank is at its worst. Wind driven rain will force its way behind the siding and will often find its way behind the laps and will literally get between the siding and the paint forming large balloons under the paint filled with water! These balloons can be as large as a foot or two wide and unbelievably can hold 4-6 ounces of water for months until the peeling sets in. You pop the balloon and water runs down the side of the home! Additional areas where paint peeling and Hardiplank delamination often occur are any location where there is a high 'slash' effect off of gable roofs or splash from decks or porches back onto this siding. iF YOU READ THE MANUFACTURER'S INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS, THEY WANT YOU TO KEEP THE PRODUCT 'X' INCHES AWAY FROM DECKS AND ROOF SURFACES, HOWEVER THIS ISJUST NOT PRACTICAL IN MANY CASES. In a real sense this is Hardy's own admission that the product is not suited for geographic areas of the US which receive a fair amount of rain due to water absorption. I've read lots of painters saying the problem is the paint. Over the years, we've tried all the major brands including Behr and Sherwin Williams and numerous others, and in our experience the paint makes little to no difference. In our view the product is not suitable as an exterior siding unless the structure is located in an arid environment like the southwest. Many homeowners have been told it's an installation problem. Except in the rarest cases, I do not believe it. I have seen rampant delamination of the product 2" from a patio surface and 20' above as well. I have experienced the butt joints open up as much as 3/4 of an inch on hot southern exposures. All this means that the product is swelling and shrinking constantly and inherently causes paint to peel as a result. In short, the product does not appear to be suited for the purpose for which it is intended: SIDING. I would not put it on a dog house!

I will be putting Hardi plank siding up in less than a month. I live in the middle of a woods. I want to blend two different shades of paint. Gray primer(dry) than (light green first...(dry) than a gray over it,(dry) and possible another charco gray lightly to give depth to the cedar mill. Pain staking but I got time and I want my house to blend with the woods surroundings. Could someone please guide me on how to do it right. Thanks!

Midwest(Kansas City). Summers up to 105, winters down to -10. Rain, average humidity at 50%, lots of wind. Helped build about 40 or so Habitat for Humanity houses(in the 90's)---about 18 or so with Hardi plank lap siding. What we used was factory primed and site painted. The key to our success---the houses I have seen after 15+ years look fine---was caulking all but joints and priming/painting any exposed ends(trim/fishscale details/etc. We used a 7" reveal and hand screwed the planks in place. The planks were installed over 1" rigid foam on wood framed houses and to the webbing on CIF sided homes(concrete insulating forms) We used vinyl siding as well on other houses. The vinyl was easily(and frequently) damaged by weed eaters of projectiles from power mowers. The sun faded the vinyl as well(we used premium thicknesses). The only damage to Hardi siding was from a fire bomb or intentional vandalism. A single piece of Hardi plank was damaged by a fire bomb enough to have to replace it. The heat did melt the CIF form under the siding, but not enough to be a problem. I have steel insulated siding on our house---I think that is better(more expensive initially, but very low maintenance in 30 years) long term choice. But, between Hardi, cedar shake, and vinyl---Hardie as the no contest winner.