Warm Season Vegetable Grow List for 2019

5 years ago

I'm trying to cut back on most things in order to have room for more tomatoes, which already are posted on their own separate post.

Bean, Bush:

Bountiful

Contender

Fowler

Harvester

Purple Dove

Red Swan

Tanya's Pink Pod

Bean, Pole:

Insuk's Wang Kong

Louisiana Purple Pod

Red-Striped Greasy

Spanish Musica

Whithner White

Cantaloupe/Musmelon:

Crane

Hale's Best Jumbo

Israeli

Noir des Carmes

Old Israel

Cucumber:

Armenian

County Fair

H-19 Little Leaf

Lemon

Corn, Sweet:

Country Gentleman

Early Sunglow

Okra:

Jambalaya

Peppers:

Jalapeno-Biker Billy

Jalapeno-Chichimeca

Jalapeno-Emerald Fire

Jalapeno-Jalafuego

Jalapeno-Mucho Nacho

Sweet Bell-Roumanian Rainbow

Southern Peas:

Elite

Kiawah Purple Hull

Knuckle Purple Hull

Pink Eye Purple Hull

Queen Ann

Quick Pick

Whippoorwill Steele's Black

Squash:

Summer-Bossa Nova

Summer-Early Straightneck Prolific

Summer-Teot Bat Put

Winter-Green-Striped Cushaw

Winter-Seminole Pumpkin

Watermelon:

Blacktail Mountain

Sugar Baby

Yellow Doll

Featured Answer

Megan Huntley

5 years ago

last modified: 5 years ago

My grow list with notes because I'm open to others' experience and feedback.

Peppers:

(I'll purchase or beg for plants.)

CA Wonder or YOLO bell peppers (The two varieties have produced similarly for me in the past and I haven't noticed a distinct difference between them. YOLO is supposed to produce a little bigger fruit than CA but I haven't see a noticeable difference.)

Red Beauty bell peppers (First time growing last year. They took a while to really get going which was odd since they have a short DTM - 68 days, but they were so prolific and large, the stems would break if not supported)

Shishito peppers (I may let my MIL grow these. We both had them last year and 5 plants easily produces enough for both families. With 10 plants between us, we were overrun! I love, love, love to saute them with some sea salt and eat them as a snack or toss them on traditional tacos in place of lettuce or on street style tacos.)

Banana or Greek - TBD (I've reached out to a couple Italian friends to see if they have a canning recipe. Hopefully they can find one. If not, I may opt grow and pickle banana peppers instead.)

Mosquetero poblano peppers (Likely the only one I'll start myself, my first year with poblanos)

Sweet potatoes:

Diane (narrowed down to this variety after starting with it, Beauregard - WAY too big and tough for a home garden but good for a market garden, and Jewel - nice but fruit stayed long and narrow making it a chore to get a good dice when chopping them)

Vardamann (My first foray into bush varieties last year and they did awful, but if they sprout I'll try them one more time. I suspect that our summer was too dry last year for a MS variety, though at the rate it's been raining this year they might be happier.)

Okra:

My first year with both these varieties.

Stewart Zeebest (Thanks Jen for the seeds!)

Lee

Beans:

Burpee stringless green beans (I need stringless varieties due to time constraints and have a lot of these seeds that I feel obligated to try to use up, but I'm definitely interested in feedback on other stringless varieties to try if space allows)

Southern Peas:

??? (I'll have room for some of these if I can resist the urge to plant flowers in the containers I would use. It will be easier to make that call if we have the kind of heat we did last year. LOL)

Tomatillos

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Comments (12)

hazelinok
5 years ago
Here we go...

Tomato:

Early Girl

Sungold

JetStar

Supersonic

Peppers:

Mucho Nacho Jalapeno

Ashe County Pimento

Early Calwonder

Hybrid Sweet Bell Mix

Cucumber:

Armenian

Melons:

Sugar Baby watermelon

Crane melon

Okra:

Stewart Zeebest

Southern Pea:

Pink Eye Purple Hull

Squash:

Seminole pumpkin

Waltham butternut

Pole Bean:

Black Seeded Kentucky Wonder (trying something new. anyone have opinions on this one?)

Bush Beans:

Fowler (also new. Any opinions?)

Blue Lake (leftover seed)

Maybe tomatillos IF the mood is right on March 1. They are consistently difficult as seedlings. They seem weaker than tomatoes. Already have seed: Purple tomatillo and Dr. Wyche's yellow.
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essence you're moving into zone 8b. this zone runs roughly from the jacksonville to tifton, ga. area and covers the coast of georgia. everything in your list will grow well here depending on the variety - but mostly anything will have no problem. the humidity here can be unreal but in brunswick you will have a steady wind blowing most of the time. look for august temps to reach 110-115 with heat index - like clockwork one to two weeks out of the year. i've never had crops die from heat - as long as you give them plenty to drink. tomatoes will not yield as well in august but will produce again in september and october. the time to get seeds started is in mid-february indoors to get an early crop. last frost usually comes just before easter but sometimes right after - this year my guess is before. you live below the piedmont ridge so you will have a sandy soil with clay a few feet down. from macon down was all under water not to long ago so maybe you will want to do container gardening till you get an idea of what you're working with. there are plenty of horse stables and cow fields around for you to get free manure from so just get a few loads and condition your soil. georgia is a gardener and farmer's dream. more varieties of plants grow here than anywhere in the world - between tifton and macon being the hot spot. if you need any help or want any seeds email me. welcome to georgia. john jdlibby@hotmail.com Here is a link that might be useful: georgia plant hardiness zones
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Charles, Yes, I plant them all in mid-winter through spring. When I lived in Fort Worth, some of these were fall plants only for me because Fort Worth warmed up and got too hot too early. Up here, usually the cold nights linger a bit later most years than they did down there and I can get good crops from most cool-season crops on this list most springs. The last two years we have warmed up too early in spring for some of them though. It is really hard for me to get good spring harvests from cauliflower or brussels sprouts in spring, so I plant them only for a fall harvest. I also have trouble with salsify and a few other odd things that need a long cool season. They do better in fall than spring, but I don't grow them much any more in either spring or fall. Up here in southcentral OK (I am just across the river from Gainesville, TX), the key is to plant a lot of them extra early (earlier than OSU recommends) and cover them up with floating row cover that offers some freeze and frost protection. I have floating row cover in several weights, and the heaviest one gives 8 degrees of frost protection. I have found if I cover up the plants with a double layer of row cover, it often will give the plants 12 or more degrees of frost protection. Using floating row cover changed my gardening life because it allows me to plant early and not lose the plants to cold weather. I also often lay down black plastic on top of the cool-season crop beds to warm up the soil while the air temps are still pretty cool. The warm soil can help cool-season seeds germinate more quickly than if I was trying to germinate them in cold soil. To have a good few months with cool-season plants, I really have to push the limits here in terms of planting early, but I figure I have nothing to lose by trying. The nice thing is that if we heat up too early and the cool-season crops fail to produce well (or at all), I know I'll have another chance with the fall garden. That happened last year with snap peas and broccoli. I had a wonderful fall harvest of broccoli, but still didn't get any snap peas. As it turned out, the grasshoppers, which exist in huge numbers in our rural area most years, loved the sugar snap peas so much they ate the plants down to the ground. For a while the peas tried valiantly to regrow, but after being eaten repeatedly, they gave up. I even had them under floating row cover, but the hoppers ate their way through it too. That's never happened before. Maybe I'll have sugar snap peas this spring if the weather cooperates. It also helps that I have a lot of space. When the garden was smaller, I pretty much had to choose between cool-season and warm-season crops in spring because there wasn't room for everything. We enlarged the garden every year until it reached its present size, so now I can grow pretty much whatever I want whenever I want. That helps. My favorite gardening magazine is "Texas Gardener", by the way, and if you've never seen it, you might want to check it out. I find it just as useful for me here in OK as I did when I lived in TX. You wouldn't believe how many great varieties for our part of the country I've found merely by reading about them in Texas Gardener. Two of the five gardening books I'm reading this winter are from Texas too---Dr. Bill Adams' book on Growing Tomatoes and Greg Grant's Vegetable and Fruit book. Dawn
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Mike, There are many reasons. The main reason is that different varieties are not just different named versions of the same thing---they have different flavors and other different qualities. I love green beans, but I don't want to eat the same green bean all summer long. I want different flavors and textures. Some varieties do not work well at all for freezing or canning, but others do. So I can or freeze the varieties that can and freeze well, but eat fresh the varieties that don't preserve well. Some of it is a hedge against the vagaries of weather. Different varieties perform differently in various types of weather. With a lot of different varieties, you increase the odds that you'll get great production from at least some of what you plant. I rarely have a year that is a true dud with very poor production. I believe that is partly because I hedge my bets by planting so many different varieties. Different colors of produce are, to me, the spice of life. Why eat only red-fleshed watermelons when they also are available with white, pale yellow, bright yellow, pink, orange and even swirled/mixed colors? If we're having a bowl of melon balls to eat as a light dessert after dinner, why can't it include red, yellow and orange melon balls? Maybe with a cantaloupe or honeydew thrown in? It isn't just about looks of having a wide variety of harvest times, flavors and texture either. As a cancer survivor of many years, the nutritional content of what I grow is very important to me. Remember that different colors of skin, flesh, leaves, etc., come from different phytonutrients, phenols and other compounds and for the best, most well-balanced diet, nutrient-wise, we should try to eat a wide variety of foods in many different natural colors. That is one reason breeders are working to develop blue tomatoes---to help us get more anthocyanins in our diets, for example. Scientists have found that different antioxidant compounds are associated with the phenols and other compounds that produce different colors in produce. So, if you eat a wide range of different colors of produce, you're getting a wider range of natural antioxidants in your diet. I also just really enjoy having a colorful garden. For some reason I cannot explain, it gives me great joy to bring more colors of produce into the house. I am perfectly content to carry a bucket of green podded snap beans to the house. However, when I carry a bucket of mixed green, yellow, purple, pink, red and bi-color beans to the house, I am almost giddy. I feel the same way when I have a bowl of tomatoes on the counter. Red ones are fine. However, a bowl of black, purple, pink, yellow, red, orange and bicolored tomatoes is not just a bowl of tomatoes---it is a celebration of the biodiversity that is found in tomatoes. Maybe for me, that's really what it all comes down to---celebrating the biodiversity that exists in Mother Nature. When I was a kid in the 1960s and 1970s, I knew (or thought I knew) what vegetables looked like---tomatoes were red, eggplant was purple, corn was yellow or (if you grew your own, white), carrots and pumpkins were orange and celery was green. Why were they that way? It wasn't because only those colors of those vegetables existed in nature. It was because long ago the commercial growers, agricultural breeders. marketing folks and others involved in the production of and sale of produce decided that was how it was. After I began growing heirlooms and discovered that vegetables come in many colors never seen in the grocery store, I wanted to grow them all. I think that selectively choosing only certain colors of produce probably doesn't do us any good nutritionally. When I select different varieties, I always have my eye on their DTMs. For example, I don't want to choose bean varieties that all produce is 60 days. I want some that produce in 50, 55, 60, 65, 70 days, etc. Too many green beans at one time can be a problem. Spreading out the harvest over a longer period of time works better for me. As a bonus, when you have kids who might not be big fans of veggies, they can be tempted into trying yellow or red carrots, yellow or orange cherry tomatoes, purple broccoli, pink green beans, etc. It doesn't matter if the kids are your own children, grandchildren, nieces or nephews, the children of friends or whatever....if you can get them to try new veggies or fruit they normally shun because they "don't like vegetables" then you've just done them a favor. With regards to buying seeds of different varieties, I try to carefully research varieties before I buy them. I want to know that people who have tried them before me found them worth growing for some reason--flavor, disease tolerance, heavy production, drought tolerance, etc. I look for varieties known to produce well in hot summer climates and known to tolerate pretty wide swings in temperatures and moisture levels. It is very hard to know what ones to buy. When I first started gardening here, I mostly grew the same varieties I'd grown in Texas 80 miles south of where I now live. That worked out pretty well, so Willhite Seed Company has been my go-to seed supplier because it only carries seeds that do well regionally. With a lot of seed suppliers, you have to know if they are a nationally-oriented retailer or regionally-oriented. With some of the regionally-oriented suppliers, I have found that if there region is very different from ours, their varieties might not do as well here. The more I got into growing heirloom and open-pollinated varieties, the more I have gravitated towards a handful of suppliers whose varieties have repeatedly grown well here: Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, Peaceful Valley Farm Supply, Bountiful Gardens, Victory Seeds and Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds. With Baker Creek, I have to be careful because some of their tomato varieties haven't done well for me. It is the same with Tomatofest. I avoid the big retailers who have seed racks in all the stores. Why? Because their seeds are chosen because they will grown well in the majority of the USA. Well, Oklahoma's weather is not necessarily like the weather in the majority of the country, so hybrids developed to do well in the USA at large may not do well here in our hot, dry, miserable little niche. I hope this answers your question, and we can discuss it further if you have more questions or comments. One last comment, and I sure this will not surprise you....when we collect eggs from our free-range chickens, we don't just bring white eggs into the house. Over the course of the year, we will bring in eggs that are white, light brown, dark brown, brown with darker brown speckles, olive green and pale blue. Biodiversity exists in the world of chickens almost as much as it exists in the garden. You'll never find a carton filled with only white eggs in my fridge! : ) Dawn
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Amy, Your list is officially the most insane list so far. How many big tubs are you going to use? I always try to not devote so much space to cool-season plants that no space remains for warm-season ones. That's always a huge challenge for me, so I have to really watch myself at cool-season planting time. nowyousedum, All my asparagus is in one bed---each variety has its own row. Planting times vary, but for most cool-season veggies, the OSU-recommended planting dates are from Feb 15 to Mar 10. I'll link the fact sheet with the dates. With some things, like asparagus, you can plant them as soon as you get your hands on the crowns. I'm pretty sure that in the year I planted mine, I bought the bags of crowns in early January and planted immediately, Since asparagus is perennial and can stay in place for decades, it is important to do great soil prep first because you cannot go back after the fact and dig up the roots and redo the soil. Any future soil improvement you do after the asparagus is planted mostly consists of adding layers of compost and mulch on top of the asparagus bed and letting it get worked into the soil naturally by rainfall and small burrowing/digging insects and earthworms. Here's the OSU planting guide with dates. Please note that there's a range of dates for each veggie. For Spring planting, the earliest dates are recommended for far southeastern OK, the latest dates for far northwestern OK, and the rest of us who live in between the two extremes choose an appropriate date, based on our location and weather, somewhere within that range of dates. Oklahoma Garden Planning Guide Jack, I like the purple asparagus a lot. It has a very fine flavor. I hope you enjoy yours as well. Dawn
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jlhart76
5 years ago
I'm still in the vague planning stages, but I've narrowed it down to what I *ought* to grow.

Tomatoes: 7 in ground and 3 or 4 in containers

Peppers: 4 or 5 in ground and 3 or 4 in containers (or plant more in containers and use that area for tomatoes)

Beans: I have a bunch of varieties that I need to use up before they aren't any good, so I may just dump them & see what happens. Otherwise, I have an area where I can get 6 or 7 plants in and hopefully not take over the world.

Cucumber 2 or 3 in ground, and I have a couple that supposedly will grow in containers. Either that, or I just plant them & some squash & let them overrun the front yard.

Herbs: still working, but I'm sure I'll be trying a bunch.
Megan Huntley
5 years ago
Jen, I see your note about herbs... I'm ordering a few varieties of dwarf basil and one dwarf dill if you want seeds. They're all from Richters unless otherwise noted.

Small leaf Basil:

Aristotle

Dolce Fresca

Greek Dwarf (Baker Creek)

Genovise-like leaves (if I'm reading right):

Gecofure

Genial

Lettuce-leaf (but compact plants):

Mammoth (SESE)

Dwarf dill:

Compatto
AmyinOwasso/zone 6b
5 years ago
FYI Johnny's has a container dill called Ella that I like. Megan I know you don't want to order from a lot of places. What is shipping at Richters? I've always wondered.
jlhart76
5 years ago
Megan, I'm always game to try new basils. If you have a few seeds leftover or an extra plant, I'd love to have some.
AmyinOwasso/zone 6b
5 years ago
If there is a Question mark, I havent actually bought the seeds yet

Amaranth

Calaloo

Edible Amaranth, Asia Red ?

Edible Amaranth, Tenderleaf?

Amaranth, Chinese Multicolor Spinach ?

Beans, Cow Pea (mostly I will randomly plant these on cattle panels at the edge of the beds. Probably wont plant them all. Iron and clay and Hardee were bought for groundcover)

Bettersnap

Big Red Ripper (Mandy)

Black-eyed peas

Chinese Red Noodle Asparagus (Yardlong) Bean

Georgia Long

Green Pod Red Seed Asparagus (Yardlong) Bean

Hardee

Haricots Rouge Burkina du Faso

Iron and Clay

Kentucky Red

Lady Peas

Long Bean Taiwan Black Seeded

Penny Rile Cow Pea

pink eye, purple hull

Whippoorwill

Black seed, nigella sativa

Cucumber (plan is to mingle these with cowpeas)

Armenian

Ashley Cucumber

Barese

County Fair

Diva

Eureka Hybrid

Greenfingers

H19 little leaf

Lemon

Marketmore76

Salad Bush hybrid

Suyo Long

Vertina

Eggplant (the eggplant experiment. If we don't like these I don't have to grow it any more)

Black Beauty

Black Diamond

Florida Market

Mitoyo

Grain Sorghum

Greens, Warm Season

Balady Aswan Celtuce

GOLDGELBER PURSLANE

Jewels of Opar

manihot, hibiscus

Purslane, Golden

Purslane, Organic Tall

Egyptian spinach

Lettuce (these all had slow bolt or heat resistant in their descriptions. They are still going to be spring plantings. I have too many seeds, so I may do the living mulch thing this year)

Adrianna Lettuce

Anuenue

Australian Yellow Looseleaf

Black seeded Simpson

blush batavians

Buttercrunch Butterhead

Carioca summer crisp on sale $1

Cherokee

CIMMARON

Cougar Summer Crisp Lettuce

Drunken Woman Lettuce

Edox

jericho

Merveille De Quatre Saisons Butterhead Lettuce (OG) packet

Midnight Ruffles Leaf Lettuce

Muir

Nevada. crisphead

New Red Fire

Quan Yin Lettuce, OSSI

Red Sails Looseleaf Lettuce (

Simpson Elite Lettuce

summer mix

Summertime

Mustard

Grow in the bed with nematoade problems

Okra (I either have to pare this down or we will be comparing okras in small plantings)

Becks Big Buck

Burmese

Evertender

Green Velvet

Jade

Stewart Zeebest

Aunt Hettie's Red

Jing Orange‘

Peppers

Czechoslovakian black pepper

Guajillo

Jalapeno Early

Joe's Long Cayenne

Alma Paprika

Charleston Belle

Chocolate Cake

Figitelli Sicilia, Sweet Pepper

Golden Greek Pepperoncini

Red Cheese Pepper

Sweet Pimento

Spinach, Summer

New Zealand Spinach

Malabar Spinach

Squash, Summer

Early Bulam summer squash

Meot Jaeng I Ae

Teot Bat Put

Squash, Winter

Black Futsu

Thai Kang Kob Winter squash

Seminole Pumpkin
Megan Huntley
5 years ago
Amy, the shipping is $6 flat rate for a seed only order. Right now my order is only about $13, so that makes it pricey. Of course, I'll have seeds for a few years just with one packet which makes it a little better, I guess. Or it's just my way of spinning it so I can justify it! I might look through again and see if there is anything I might want to try next year and order them now.

Jen, I'll definitely have extras!
slowpoke_gardener
5 years ago
Amy, with all those plants, how do you tell whats, what? I am not sure what all I will be planting, but I expect it will be less than 25 different kinds of plants.

I bought more seeds and another bag of potting soil today at the Mena, Ar. farmers coop. A few days ago I bought a few packs of seeds and a bag of potting soil at the Van Buren, Ar farmers coop.. I feel that I get a good measure of seeds at the coop, especially the Mena coop.
AmyinOwasso/zone 6b
5 years ago
I will probably only have one plant of each thing, except lettuce, okra and greens. I'm still figuring out what my favorites are. I like trying new things, so I end up with too many plants.
Okiedawn OK Zone 7
Original Author
5 years ago
Jennifer, Fowler is a really good bean---good flavor, good productivity, tons of lush, large leaves that shade the ground beneath themselves. I cannot stress how much this plant tolerates heat and drought. It produced a great crop for me in 2011 when we were in the 90s and above for all of June, July and August and had highs of 100-112 (officially, but 115 at our house) for 76 days that summer with very little rain (less than 12" for the whole year through at least mid-August). Most bean plants won't set beans well once your highs hit the mid-90s, but this one produced incredibly well in extreme heat and drought when other plants (not just beans) just laid down and died. Chickens were dropping dead from the heat when I was away at fires, and yet this plucky little bean variety shrugged off the extreme heat, extreme and exceptional drought, grasshoppers, spider mites, and everything else that Mother Nature through at it and didn't drop blossoms. It just kept producing. It was rather stunning to witness how well it did.

Larry, I love shopping at farm co-ops. My favorites are the ones with seeds in cans or plastic bins where you use a little scoop to pour the seeds you want into little paper envelopes, and you write the name and how many scoops you got on your seed packet yourself. There aren't many stores left around here like that.

Amy, I cannot imagine where you're going to put it all. I do like packing in plants as tightly together as I dare....the less empty space left available between mature plants, the less I have to mulch and weed and I'm all for that.

Megan, I don't see much difference between YOLO Wonder and Cal Wonder either. I do think our hot weather often makes sweet pepper fruit stay on the small side at least until autumn, when cooler temperatures and usually a return to more rainfall give us slightly larger peppers again.

I know y'all will find this hard to believe, but we went to Wal-Mart this morning and I didn't even go over to the Garden Center to see what they had. Bizarre for me, right? In my own defense, we had grandchildren with us shopping for their mom's birthday presents so I was staying focused on that and only on that. There was nothing good in the mail today---no seed orders being delivered, no new catalogs.

January is the hardest month, but at least we have planning, dreaming and seed ordering to get us through it.

Dawn
hazelinok
5 years ago
Thanks for your review on Fowler, Dawn. I also went to Walmart and did not look in the garden center. My feet were hurting and we had already done so many errands. However, I did look at Lowes. They had two seed displays. No JetStar or Supersonic.

I'm tired. Made two "from scratch" soups to take to my Mom's house tomorrow for lunch. We are still without heat and I don't want to have guests without heat. Not that my family are guests...but it will be more comfortable at her house. Sent Ethan to spend the night there. It's not too bad here, but if it weren't for all the animals, both Tom and I would stay the night at Mom's too. I can't leave the animals alone. Space heaters and blankets make it fine. We can't sleep with the space heaters on, but heating up the rooms before sleeping work fine. It will be repaired on Monday. (This thread is probably not the place for that comment, but I'm not moving it)

Who is ready to start some seeds?! Mentally ME.

Warm Season Vegetable Grow List for 2019

Megan Huntley

Comments (12)

hazelinok

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