New Renovation!!!!
Jenny Starling
5 years ago
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Jenny Starling
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRelated Discussions
New Home, New Kitchen, New Renovations?
Comments (11)My suggestion is that you combine the living room and dining room functions, but keep the kichen separate. Don't get yourself wrapped up in trying to replicate all the features of much-larger spaces. A dining room table can be easily intergrated into a living room and do double duty there as long as you don't try to copy the big table with chairs all around it plus sideboard. Think of a table (with leaves) that generally sits behind a sofa, for instance. Some times it's a sofa table, some times it's a dining table. The chairs need not stand around it all day long. They can be spread around the room, or even in different rooms if you don't use all of them for every day meals. The sideboard function can be handled by a cupboard, or a hutch, with some books as well as linens, serving pieces, and other DR accoutremnts. Bookshelves that are wonderful in a livng room are also fab for the walls of the DR space. You may be able to get a few seating postions (one or two) at a small island in the kitchen for those times when you have a kitchen companion hanging out with you, or when you're just grabbing a quick snack. I would concentrate on making the kitchen the most efficient and highly functional that your space allows. Since this is working area, function will really make or break the space. Think of your downstairs as having two rooms: a sitting room with the dining table in it AND a well-designed kitchen with a great place for another person to hang out with the cook. "Opening up" the rooms is a currently a popular trend, but its pouplarlity will wane (like all highly sought after and endlessly copied things). Meanwhile if you have made major structural changes in your building you will be stuck with them. Save yourself angst and money and make two great rooms -- you'll be way ahead of the style curve and you'll have two wonderful rooms that really work. Don't worry about "sliders here" or "sliders there" question at this point - think of the rooms' uses and work on those questions first. Once you have that worked out you can see how to integrate the fenestration pattern with what you already have. I think part of the current urge to open up the kitchen to the other rooms is because of the enormous size of most houses. In smaller houses there isn't as much os sense of estrangement between the people sitting in one room and those in another. Don't think you have to copy the "remedy" for the faults of houses that aren't like yours simply because that's all you see in shelter mags. Small houses are special, not the least because they are very human scaled and require you to think very carefully about your space and the choices of how you use it. I suppose you are familiar with the work of Susan Susanka of the Not So Big House fame. If not highly recommend getting her books from your library. She is a master of wonderful, small space planning. Above all else, don;t think you have to rush into a renovation. The most successful ones are those which start with a period of living n the house to see how it feels. This is the standard advice for new owners of old houses, but even less-than-antique houses have much to teach you about how they feel that you can't tell just by walking around in it a few times. Live there for 6 months ot a year -then you'll know what needs to be done and you'll have fewer regreats about your choices. HTH L....See MoreNeed help styling new renovation
Comments (3)Like the chairs. Don't see how the bamboo stools connect. Maybe a counter stool with wood seat and metal base?...See Morewindows for a new home renovation
Comments (2)Honestly we are in the finishing stages of building and used Anderson 400 series, the new ones seem to be and far less superior than the previous vinyl clad ones. We built eight years ago and also used Anderson 400 series and they are still in wonderful shape to this day (and two kids later). We haven't even moved in yet with our current new build and I can tell you this new clad (not sure if that's what you call it) but the frame of the window inside) is JUNK!! We have so many places where the surface has come off and now needs painted (like nearly one on every window, and we have 22 windows). I can't even imagine how these things are going to hold up in a few years of normal living and three kids. And yes we had the Anderson rep out and he just smirked and said to paint them. I spent 20k (to get the best quality window) and haven't even moved in and your response is to paint them?! Seems to me that the product is seriously lacking, unfortunately we got some of the first off the assembly line if the "new and improved" 400 series, our lumber yard didn't realize they changed specs and they were installed by our builder before we noticed. Personally I would look towards another brand and wouldn't think twice....See Moreinsulation for a new basement renovation
Comments (10)When we finished our basement walls I glued 1" thick sheets of Dow Corning Foamular closed cell foam on the walls and taped the seams with Tyvek tape. I then framed my 2x4 walls as the next layer, and filled them with bats of mineral wool insulation. The walls of my basement are about 6-7 feet underground, and they never feel cold. I also put a thin layer of foam (1/8"?) under the sole plates on the walls, and used pressure treated wood. The rest of the framing was standard pine studs. We also insulated the rim joist, and then used spray foam for fire blocking at the top of the wall framing. By US building code, the wall stud cavities must be sealed off from the rim joist area so that fire cannot come up through the wall and easily spread out into the area between the joists, so the fire blocking was mandatory. In most areas, for flooring I just painted the cement floor gray, and then use area rugs and runners to provide a comfortable walking surface. We did initially use ceramic tile in the bath and laundry area, but then decided it was too expensive to use it everywhere. In the full bath I installed electric floor heating (under the tile) from a company called Warmly Yours, and it works well. When set to about 74-76 degrees it provides a moderately warm surface when you stand in front of the vanity or step out of the shower, but does not really feel like its hot. The electric floor heat is really nice, but would get very expensive for a large area. For the bathroom it cost about $500 for the cork underlayment, electric grid, heat sensor and programmable thermostat. Bruce...See Moremiss lindsey (She/Her)
5 years agoJenny Starling
5 years agoJenny Starling
5 years agoJenny Starling
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agomiss lindsey (She/Her)
5 years agoAnglophilia
5 years agoJenny Starling
5 years agomiss lindsey (She/Her)
5 years agoJenny Starling
5 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
5 years agoJenny Starling
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5 years agomiss lindsey (She/Her)
5 years agoJenny Starling
5 years ago
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