mike_home is mostly right - if there's a leak in the tank it's not repairable - replace it.

However, a leaking T&P valve suggests that the problem may be excessive pressure / no expansion tank. If that's the problem then replacing the heater will not solve your problem.

I'm going to guess you are on city water.

If you are on city water, your water pressure should be something less than 80psi or you must install a pressure reducing valve. (I like to have it 60-70 psi, no higher).

Also, in most cases you need an expansion tank on your water heater so that when the water heats up and expands, it has someplace to go. Otherwise it will increase the pressure throughout the plumbing and cause the T&P valve to open.

If you have excessive pressure you can damage your tank - and void your warranty.

You can get an inexpensive recording pressure gauge from some hardware or online

Thank you very much for the information. My understanding is that it not e coverd under warranty because the anode rod was depleted (which seems ridiculous but i don't fully understand it). So I’m responsible to buy a new tank. I have expansion tank but still have really high water pressure (no sure of the psi) and it may need to be replaced. Thank you again.

Also I was also wondering why the T&P valve was replaced since it didn’t seem to be leaking but now most of the water is coming from that pipe! I will also buy that pressure gauge to see what mine is out of curiosity.

T&P valves usually "leak" because the pressure is too high.

Sometimes they leak because of sediment under the seal

You can usually flush out any sediment out of the seal by flipping the lever up ( a lot of water will come out of the pipe) and then releasing it.

I just looked up that heater - I wasn't familiar with the brand...

So does that heater really have a Stainless Steel tank?

My guess is that was a very expensive water heater. I would fight them on the warranty. The old version was discontinued and the new version doesn't even have an anode.

Look, they are making up excuses not to make good on this. My guess is that there was a design issue with the series 1 that's why they discontinued it.

Given that this wasn't a $500 unit from Lowe's I think you need to make a stink until you get a new unit.

All that said, you need to fix your water pressure issue also, if you have one.

The cheapest hot water heater in Home Depot comes with a 6 year warranty. The purpose of the anode is to protect the tank from corrosion. It is not replaced to fix a leak. The pressure relief valve does not need to be changed unless it is leaking.

Is this a home warranty making these repairs? If it is you need fire them and hire someone else. This repair person either does not know what they are doing, or is fleecing you of a lot of money in my opinion. If you have the original receipt call the manufacturer and ask how you can get the water tank replaced under the warranty.

This sounds like a known issue that they are pushing off on the end customer:

The reasoning is that if you aren't checking your anode every year and it gets depleted, its your fault then if there's corrosion on a given part and it leaks.

Mike, changing the anode isn't going to fix the leak, but replacing the drywell and/or thermostat and the anode is what is called for in the service bulletin.

Here's the rest of the story: Get your water PH tested to see why the anode is being eaten up.

Keep the record of that test.

Here's the thing: Checking a heater anode every year isn't usual or regular maintenance. I think they have a problem and know it... that's why the Series 2 doesn't have an anode.

https://www.weil-mclain.com/download/file/fid/3018

Do follow through on the water pressure testing and let us know.