Plants have their own sense of time that isn't measured by the hour hand on a clock, rather, day length (technically it's the length of the dark period) is what the plant pays attention too. When the day length signals the plant to grow, and other cultural conditions allow it to grow normally, your plant should from that point forward start producing healthy growth. It can't 'repair' the damaged growth, though that will eventually be shed and forgotten as the plant grows. What you're seeing is probably the result of an ongoing shedding process that may well have been instigated by conditions that affected the plant even before you acquired it. Your very best coursed of action is to make a good plan that A) ensures good root health B) takes advantages the plants more robust periods and makes allowances for when the plant would be better off without extra human generated stress C) has you ensuring cultural conditions in the area of light, temperature, and nutrition that subject the plant to the lowest level of stress you can comfortably manage. Fortunately, these things are much easier than they sound, but it's not realistic to expect to see the results of your efforts in a month or two. Choose a course, stick by it, be patient. If the course is a good one, your plant will cooperate. If it's not, it will let you know. Al

Hello, you will get a better answer at the houseplant forum. The people who read this forum are mostly growing edible figs which are treated differently.

Ugh!! MG moisture control is an evil root-suffocating substance! Don't feel bad; you were just trying to do right by your plants. Dave is exactly correct in every respect. You'll want to wait until June to repot because that's when the plant will have the greatest energy reserves to help it recover quickly--unless you're in the S. Hemisphere, in which case you'll probably repot in December (correct me if I'm wrong, Dave). Most of my plants are in the same moisture-retaining soil you use, so in order to get my babies in good shape for repotting I'm following these suggestions, which came from excellent sources: 1. First I flushed my plants ar (to wash out salts that had accumulated over several years) until the water coming out the bottom was clear. I let the pots drain until water stopped coming out, then reduced the PWT (perched water table, which is explained in Dave's second link) by propping the pots up at 45 degrees with blocks of wood until no more water came out. 2. I wait until the soil feels almost completely dry before watering again. To do that I push a sharpened dowel all the way to the bottom of each pot, and I don't water again until the dowel comes out so dry that it's not even cool against my wrist. 3. From now until June I'll water 'in sips' instead of soaking the pot until water runs out the bottom. Every month or so I'll flush the pot with a diluted fertilizer solution to remove the salts that build up from evaporation. I'm also giving them extra light because there's not enough here to keep them happy. Your ficus still looks good, so I think it will come back like gangbusters!

Did you mean to put this in a Plant forum? Maybe this one for House Plants? http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/houseplt