In ground citrus trees in greenhouse north of citrus zones
poncirusguy6b452xx
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Lets see your greenhouse pictures for those who have citrus tree in ground but to far north for that variety to survive a mild winter.
New Zealand lemonade in a greenhouse with 4 layers of Low-e sealed glass all around and with normal glass to let solar heat in at the bottom to warm the soil and up into the canopy. The small structure of 4 layer Low-E glass houzzes my Valentine pomelo
Fukushu kumquat inside 4 layers of glass the top level is Low-e on the east and west sides and plane glass to let solar heat in. The bottom level is 4 sheet of plane glass to let the sun in. The other 3 sides are insulated with leaves because they get no sun. 23 watt daylight CFL for light an heat.
those leaves at the bottom limbs are between 2.5 and 3 years old.
Steve
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Soil prep for in ground citrus tree
Comments (6)My 2 cents worth: Sandy loam- my instinct tells me that that is well draining but lack of nutrients. Citrus can not live without nutrients in the soil. Your tree will always be grasping for nutients and will starve to death because of lack of water and maybe the soil is too alkaline. You'll try to keep watering but the water will just like pass through a sieve and so goes on and on until your citrus lost its leaves and die back. If that is my tree I would add compost as much as I can to neutralize the pH and to hold the water in the soil. That way your pH is good. I would also add steer manure or long lasting fertilizer with micronutrients. What I use is the miracid fert by Miraclegrow.Use it accto the label. It is true some people recommend not to add anything and use the native soil but it is just me I go by my instinct because if the soil is not fertile you have problem. Why take a chance? Compost is a pH neutralizer and most fertile. Citrus can not take in nutrients if the pH is too high or too low no matter what you do. It's just like a baby when you try to feed her and she closes her mouth....See Morecan you grow citrus in north carolina?
Comments (35)There is a mature 12 to 15 ft Ponderosa Lemon tree growing well about 4 miles from me. It produces loads of thick skinned navel style lemons, similar to Italian lemons, which I understand are even hardier and will grow here in Eastern North Carolina. 3 years ago the owner rooted over 100 cuttings, which he sold ready potted. I bought several at $5 a pot. These were 1 to 2 foot tall small trees, which is pretty good value. I kept one for myself and gave others as gifts and also work colleagues were paying for them. Unfortunately, I planted mine in an exposed area, open to the north wind and quite honestly didn't look after it like I should have. It died after 2 years. In the ensuing years I have driven past the mature lemon tree to have a gentle nose. Particularly in the winter. We have had temps around 20F and slightly below and yes it does it appear to have died back on some of the branches after such cold weather, but it springs back to life again come 'Spring'. It is semi-exposed to the weather, being behind the main house and in front or to one side of a shed. The owner doesn't dress the tree for frost protection and it seems it has to be 20F at least before die back occurs. I guess I know it's there and that i can always get another small tree from him, so I haven't bothered re-visiting the notion. Instead, I am growing an Owari Satsuma. It's been in the ground since March and doing well, of course it hasn't gone through winter yet. The Owari satsuma is a spindly specimen and nothing like the orange trees that we had in Arizona. I have planted this in a south facing location with staking and tying and with some degree of protection from the north wind, about 15 feet from the back of the house. Safer would have been directly against the back of the house, but then there's the house foundations to consider. Anyway, all I can say is that lemons and they are 'true' lemons are alive and well here in Eastern North Carolina, half way between Richlands and Jacksonville....See MoreSurvey: Cold protection for in-ground citrus in z8
Comments (23)Softmentor - You are very right on the many number of factors that determine cold hardiness (others we did not mention: acclamation to cold and overall health of the tree)...there is certainly no "magic number." I have found that upper 20's for a few hours are fine for oranges, grapefruit, and meyer lemons. Other lemons, citrons, limes, etc. wouldn't like that I am sure. From my understanding, Trifoliate orange rootstalk actually does add some protection because it is the only citrus that goes completely dormant in the winter. According to John Panzarella (a local citrus guru for Southeast Texas), "PT goes dormant in the winter, so reduces the water flow to the scion and gives the scion a few degrees of cold protection. PT will not start growing and producing tender new growth with a few days of warm weather in the winter." The last sentence is especially important for Texas, as in the winter we have frequent gulf breezes battling arctic cold fronts. So far, here are my unprotected lows for my varieties: Rio Red Grapefruits (2 trees planted at the same time by previous owner)- 26 F (4 years old, south side of house, pine trees overhead) -- tree was covered in snow (maybe insulated it a bit??), I was very surprised that there was no damage. Okistu Satsuma - 29 F (planted fall 2008, north side in the yard, no overhead protection at all) Meyer Lemon - 28 F (planted spring 2007, north side of house, no overhead protection) Moro Blood Orange - 28 F (planted spring 2007, in yard with no protection) Lakeland Limequat - 29 F (planted fall 2008, north side of house, 2 feet from brick exterior of house) As you can see, this is a very small sample size and only a brief history of data. Last winter was pretty warm, as has this winter so far. I wish I had a better way of measuring the length of the freeze and other variables....See MoreCitrus in Greenhouses
Comments (25)The math on greenhouses. The resistance (R) for heat to move from blowing air to a solid ------------R=0.16 The Resistance (R) for heat to move from still air to a solid-------------------R=0.58 These values are the same in the opposite direction as above cases. The Resistance for heat to move through the solid sheet of transparency is R>0.00 Polly/glass/lexan 2 layer still air R=0.58+0.58(Film 1)+0.58+0.58(film 2)=2.32 Rigid transparent 2 layer wind R=0.16+0.58------------+0.58+0.58-----------=1.90 poly plastic sheeting both sheets wave in the wind R= 0.16+0.16+0.16+0.16=0.64 Windy day glass 2 layer R=1.91 Windy day lexan 2 layer R=1.91 Windy day plexi 2 layer R-1.91 Poly plastic sheeting 2 L R=0.64 Ouch $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ glass outside poly inside R=1.91 The air gap between the 2 layers adds R a little only if there is no wind or the outside surface panel or both panels are rigid. If each window panel is 2 layer argon gas your R=2.91 Shop around for this $$$ If the north wall is insulated framing (R19) That cuts heat loss near 1/3...See Moreponcirusguy6b452xx
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
5 years ago2 new additions to enclosed growing space.
30 gallon light enclosure for my bigger of small tress.
My 2 smaller seed grown Miewa trees will each fit in one of these light enclosure.
Steve
Vladimir (Zone 5b Massachusetts)
5 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx thanked Vladimir (Zone 5b Massachusetts)
sunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx thanked sunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)poncirusguy6b452xx
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
5 years agowhite is better. when you see a contractor that has empty bucket ask for them. A cheap 25 gallon trash can can be found on sale for a little more than a Lowes bucket.
My 2 smaller seed Meiwa trees under there own bucket light.
My 2 larger seed grown Meiwa trees.
NZL at 3 months 1 week sinse T-bud breaking
1 of 10 new buds on NZL
poncirusguy6b452xx
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
Non Low-E windows at base get sunlight near mid day hight to near sunset. This is the solar heating system.
Matt z5b - Greenhouse 10a
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoA cool morning, but the sun is out!
December 8 2018
The meyer will perk up and start growing soon.
poncirusguy6b452xx thanked Matt z5b - Greenhouse 10aponcirusguy6b452xx
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agosunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)
5 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx thanked sunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)Matt z5b - Greenhouse 10a
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx thanked Matt z5b - Greenhouse 10asunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)
5 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx thanked sunshine (zone 6a, Ontario,Canada)poncirusguy6b452xx
5 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
5 years ago
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