Bill, I ripped out the mortar, membrane and lower ~18" of backerboard (again). I am going to re-installing the original fiberglass shower pan. My other post about the treat lumber curb is where I am now. I will cut that out down to the floor due to numerous 3 inch screws and liquid nail the previous guy used to secure the 2x4s to each other and to the subfloor and I pretty sure I don't want treated lumber in the bathroom area. As for the rest of the bathroom, we have 1/4" backboard on the horizontal surface of the tub deck (on top of 5/8" plywood underlayment) and the vertical backsplash and front surface tiled except grout. I will post some photos on Flickr so you can see what we are doing. Oh yeah, the floor has 1/2" backerboard down and is ready for heating coils and tiling. On the tub deck.... 1. Do you put a grout or caulk line on the corners where the horizontal bull nose meets the vertical straight cut tile or overhang a bullnose piece and grout or caulk underneath? In the shower... 1. Do you caulk the corners where the tiles meet or grout? I planned on using clear silicone in the corners but have heard that grout is just as effective. 2. When I removed the shower pan during demo, there was nothing underneath. I am now reading that one should lay mortar or foam underneath the pan. You thoughts?

Thanks for taking the time to find that link enduring. I think that I'm leaning towards the mud bed vs the SLC + kerdi pan. The "tinny" sound of the kerdi pan had me worried (my wife is picky about things like that) lol. The article you linked was a good read and it pushes me further toward the mud pan route. I finally got all of the wonderboard hung today so I will have to make a final decision in the morning when these beers wear off :-) Unfortunately, I messed up hand cutting the kerdi curb so I will have to make a trip to the store in the morning for the materials to do a traditional 2x4 curb. Above: the curb lines up fine on the top plane...just like the 2x4 template I made Below: Unfortunately, i guess I cut the curb at a pretty severe angle...guess this is why I don't do this for a living ;-) I was going to try to cut a wedge or fill in the gap with the dry-pack or something but since this will essentially be load bearing (shower glass door) I feel like that isn't a good option. I figure I will just grab a couple of the curb perfect kits...it seems like the "for dummies" version of shower building so hopefully I cant mess that up...I am so tired of going to the tile store lol.

You'd have to check the bag; most pre-emergents have various rates for various lengths of coverage. For fall overseeding, you'd want to make sure the shield drops no later than July. If fall seeding, or a full reno, is on the table, I tend to recommend skipping the spring application of pre-emergent. A dry summer will slow the degradation of the pre-emergent layer and may lead to problems when seeding. Plus most companies seem to underestimate the time the shield will be up. I apply a nine month shield of Prodiamine to my stone deck and my mother's, and it's effective for more than a year. There will still be some weed suppression next summer from what I did this spring--although I'll renew it next spring anyway unless I forget.

Problem with a kit is the adjustability portion is done by the glass sidelites "overlapping". I would suggest custom as well. As noted above blocking needed to be installed prior to the tiling as well, typically.