It’s massive. And needs at least 18” of depth behind it if you’re going to house it behind it. Heat cracks glass. Heat burns wood. Heat melts plastic. Heat rises. Basic science facts.

This is really really dysfunctional and a fire marshal’s nightmare.

Stoves are put in front of windows all the time. Many high end kitchens have this look. Check out Jennifer Garners Pretend Cooking Show! Massive stove in front of window. I’m looking For someone with downdraft hood experience as it relates to an exterior blower. Our town does not even require a hood so we are not up against any fire or construction codes. The window is NOT vinyl and does violate any fire codes!!!

Ugh, you do have me worried now as my existing gas stove is nestled between wooden cabinets. And to make matters worse, the transparent door to my oven, which allows me to tell when the turkey is done, appears to be made of glass! Thanks for the heads up. I’m sitting in a bathtub full of water with the fire marshall on speed dial!

Houzz is somewhat biased. It's all about function over looks. People who post here tend to look for appliances that they'll use to the full extent of their capabilities. You'll notice that very few posters will recommend a 48" range, as it is hard to come even close to making use of that many burners, and it's equally hard to configure the rest of the kitchen so that the range works properly. But the subset of posters who do decide to get a 48" range tend to also make heavy use of this appliance. And they would immediately notice the problems with inadequate ventilation or insufficient heat proofing.

And then, every so often, we get people who post for advice, because they go for a particular look, but don't expect to ever use their kitchen to anywhere close to their potential. And there inevitably is going to be a disconnect. The experienced Houzz users will inevitably point out how this configuration is simply dysfunctionally. And the reply will always be "but it shows so in high-gloss magazines" or "I rarely make anything more complicated than hardboiled eggs".

You really have to figure out what you want and actually tell us. Do you just care about looks, then disregard all our advice and do whatever looks pretty. If on the other hand, you plan on using your kitchen to a percentage of its capacity, then spend more time learning about the physics.

And then there are people who only post design questions after they are done building their dream kitchen. Search the archives for sob stories or cracked and scorched backsplashes, of damaged window frames, of permanently dirty windows, of kitchens that get too hot for comfort whenever the stove is in use, of cooking smells that permeate the entire house, of expensive vent hoods that make a lot of noise but fail to do their primary function, etc. etc.

There is a reason why you'll receive this advice. We have seen all the mistakes being made and how it makes an expensive kitchen remodel turn into a nightmare. But nobody can force you to listen to help; you are at liberty to learn this easy or the hard way.

Also, it's possible that your kitchen plans are doable. But since you have failed to post a floor plan and/or photos, we have to go by the limited data available to us.

I find our floor plan/kitchen design irrelevant to my question. We are putting a range in front of a window like thousands of other kitchen designs. My question was specific to the downdraft systems as we are trying to find the best way to install. I wanted to hear from people who have installed in his/her home and what method they chose. I don’t need to hear ridiculous comments about windows melting!

m

There are very few installations with kitchens under windows because to do so safely involves a great deal of extra expense to make it functional and safe. Most installations are done poorly, and unsafely. Yes, vinyl windows can melt. Anything plastic cans melt when exposed to high heat. Even quartz. We’ve seen that.

The windows must be inoperable.

There must be the correct horizontal clearance between the window and range, which varies from 0 for most conventional electric, to a standard 6” for most, to 9” in some high powered gas units. That adds counter depth. This is the most neglected criteria.

The glass should be tempered. If you’ve ever seen regular glass shatter vs tempered glass, you’ll know that it still can cut you. The difference is between you having a few stitches to you having lots of stitches.

You can never have window treatments. Never. It doesn’t matter what they are, or if you don’t cook.

Island ventilation hoods cost more than conventional wall hoods, and perform less well. You may want to invest in a home ionization or other type of air purifying system for your home. If you cook.

The additional cleaning is an issue for those who cook. It‘s not for those who don’t. Many use a shield like a baking sheet against the window to minimize the additional cleanup. The additional horizontal clearance makes any cleanup of the rear more difficult to reach.

Many locations will not allow this to pass inspection. Check with your AHJ before investing a lot of planning. Even if it does pass, as is seen here, there is a lot of negative feeling towards this that can negatively affect the resale value of the home.

In addition, downdrafts have their own set of issues. I disrecommend them. Strongly. I’ve still had clients go ahead with them, and have planned their kitchens anyway. I beyond strongly disreccimend a range in front of a window. I would also help someone who wanted a range in front of a window also plan that safely. But only if they planned to do it safely, with all of the clearance and safety requirements outlined above. And that is after discussing the issue with my good friend the Fire Captain.

Logistically, Downdrafts are designed to work with cooktops, not ranges, and those very few that will work with ranges occupy a good deal of space that a range against an exterior wall will not have available. The additional front to back space required for clearance to the window is enough to house the riser, but not enough for the rest of the unit. Locating the vent externally, directly on the other side of the window wouldn’t work as any vent termination must be more than 3’ from a window. The duct would need to run through the back of the cabinets away from the window.

Id suggest engaging a HVAC professional for a consult. You will need Make Up Air, to avoid carbon monoxide backdrafting. A 54” overhead hood would be far simpler, more effective, and less money. You will still need MUA.

I think everybody is ignoring the elephant in the room here. @Kiera Hammond refuses to give us a lot of details, which makes it extremely difficult to give her a useful answer. But we do know that she is looking at a 48" range. Off the top of my head, I can't think of any manufacturer that makes conventional electric ranges in that size (i.e. heating coils or ceramic flat surface), and I have a hard time thinking of a manufacturer that makes induction stoves in that size either. Large induction options would more typically be cooktops instead of full ranges. One way to get induction in a large range would be a LaCanche, but that manufacturer has slightly different sizes, I believe (i.e. not exactly 48").

So by process of elimination, we are most likely talking about a gas range. These do come in 48" width, but all the models I am familiar with tend to be on the prosumer high-power end of the spectrum. In other words, we are looking at something like 150,000 BTU total output power (give or take). N.B. @Kiera Hammond, you could really help us, if you provided this information rather than letting me try to guess from the little crumbs of data that you provide.

150,000 BTU is a lot of heat, and it is a lot of combustion effluent. A traditional wall-mounted vent hood would probably need to be sized for something on the order of 1500-2000 cfm to deal with that. Again, since I don't have any more information, I have to make a rough guess.

A 9" duct is going to be woefully inadequate to transport that volume of air. The physics simply doesn't allow for that much air to move through such a confined opening.

But now, to throw another wrinkle into the discussion, instead of having a wall mounted hood with proper containment and in the direct path of the rising hot gases, we should picture a way to make all that gas turn 90° at only 18" above the burners and to move through a tiny linear opening.

Not going to happen. Period. End of discussion. Even the best "sucking power" can only move as much as the rest of the atmospheric pressure, and that's simply not enough in this case.

There is a reason why you don't see downdrafts paired with high powered ranges, let alone with large high powered gas ranges.

And as others have said, all of that ignores the fact that you have special heat- and fireproofing requirements, and the need for a very large and expensive make-up-air system.

I wanted to thank Wendy Palen for the info on the down drafts. Just pulling the trigger on appliance purchases. Thermador 36 inch gas stovetop and the Best downdraft. we also cannot move the stovetop from island due to wallspace and I am more positive on my choices after reading your info. If you have the details on the install issues to share I would be keen to know them so I avoid them. we are ordering an in line blower, 600 CFM to install in the crawl under our home.

Wendy - we're going to have a tight and complicated fit for a downdraft, if it will work at all. What was the problem with the dimensions on the first one they sent? A different model? Correct model but with different measurements than specified? I have a feeling we will have to have the unit on hand in order to make the correct wall/counter adjustments.

@wendy - What is the model number of the downdraft and external blower you installed?

We are planning on having a 36" Wolfe induction cooktop and looking at two downdrafts:

Best (Model D49M36SB with external blower Model EB1500 1500CFM) and

Dacor (DAMRV3615S with external blower DAREMP16 1000CFM).

I have a 36" Monogram propane cooktop on my island with Best Cattura downdraft. It's pretty new and I haven't used it all that much but so far, I'm perfectly happy with it. We have a 600 CFM blower and I usually don't run it full blast. I know it's pulling air as I can see the flames on the cooktop 'dancing' when it is on and when it's on high, it seems to create too much of a draft on the flames so I only run the fan at maybe 50-75%. Sometimes I run it for a few minutes after I'm done cooking and it seems to clean out the air well enough for my satisfaction.

I've never had a real hood fan so maybe I have low standards/expectations but really, I am perfectly happy with my current set up.

@GraceKim - what is the model number of your Best downdraft and external blower model number. Thanks

GraceKim, thanks so much for the post! We decided on the Best Cattura Downdraft hood for our 48” Bertazzoni Range. The stove is against the wall and the vent goes right out the back of the house with a 600 CFM blower mounted outside. We love the downdraft hood and it has more than enough suction power for our needs.

easiest downdraft to clean? (i want to throw those babies in the dishwasher often!)

I put my Broan range hood vent inserts in my dishwasher. They are very easy to remove and fit in the dishwasher really well.

@Kiera Hammond Is your Bertazzoni range gas or electric? Any issue with the Best Cattura drawing the flames away and disrupting the flame?

it’s gas with an electric oven. No issues at all with the Best Cattura

Did you put it in front of a window as you said you planned to do? Just curious.

I did! I love how it turned out.

We are going with induction cooktop in front of window and Best thermador downdraft. Looks absolutely beautiful from the photo. Cant wait to hear how you like it after some meals! Thx!

Kara are you happy with the best downdraft also?

Sorry just saw this. We went with the smallest blower despite recommendations to go bigger. For our purposes it works fine and honestly, I do a lot of cooking without the vent going (Our stove doesn’t have the Btu output of a Viking or Wolf). The downstaft is very easy to clean and definitely works! It’s also nice not having a huge vent blocking our backyard view.

Likewise and so far so good!

We installed a 36" gas Bosch cooktop with a Best Cattura 36" downdraft inside of quartz, and had a window with counter overhang above it. The available space for the downdraft from the back of the cooktop to the where the overhang came was tiny, like less than half inch (if you didn't have this overhang, you would easily have 2+" from the back of the wall to the downdraft, so, plently of room for backsplash...which we also added -- beveled subway tile -- and still had room). We had to enlarge the duct to 8" and purchase a new vent cover for the outside of the house (we had an HVAC guy do this). We did decided to mount the blower in the unfinished basement underneath, and then vent that outside, so that we wouldn't lose cabinet space and so it was quieter (He had to cut the bottom of the cabinet plus the wood floors underneath, and we added 6 new drawers. He had to build a new frame in the back of the cabinet to attach the drawer slides to in the back.). We did have to mount the included electrical panel of the downdraft under the floor of the cabinet, because the power cord is only like 18" long (otherwise we would've put the electrical panel on the inside of the cabinet, like you're supposed to). It took some creative thinking, but everything we did worked well. Although, it will be tricky if/when someone else needs to access the electrical panel -- so if you can put it inside the cabinet and give up some space, do.

We lived with the remodeled kitchen for 1.5 years before moving and WE LOVED the setup and never had any issues. The Cattura Best downdraft works well and is easy to clean. The lights are great - two levels of brightness. The fan has 3 settings. A little light will flash at you when you need to clean the vents, which is super easy to do. Yes, the downdraft on high fan does affect the gas flame in the back of the stove by pulling it backwards, but I only found this on the back burners, and not the front or middle large one. Water took forever to boil on the back burner if the downdraft was up and on any setting other than low -- but honestly the number of times I had both front burners and the middle in use, and still needed a back burner going, was pretty minimal. If I really needed, I would open a window or the back door and turn on the adjoining ceiling fan. Sometimes light a candle if it was something residual, like fish. I'm sure a real overhead hood would be more effective at removing smoke or smell, so if you have this option and you cook a lot, I would consider it. But we were happy with this option. Plus, my husband is 6'6 and he hits his head on any normal hood. And, weren't willing to give up the large windows.

We are actually planning this exact setup in our new house (minus the window). No, it's not THE MOST efficient way to remove smoke and smell, like an overhead range hood, but for our family, it works great.

I just finished mine reno including the Best Cattura- and wanted to add that both the light and fan features will stay set to whatever setting you closed it at once opened again (of course they turn off while stored), which I did not know by reading all the reviews and manuals. I like that feature!

@Wendy Palen

Which model did you get? Any suggestions for avoiding the problem you had?

Hi. We have the 30" model, and needed to run the duct work directly underneath the unit (and under the floor to the remote blower-- see picture from the installation guide below), but the one they sent first was missing that option. We never got an explanation. We had extremely limited cabinet space and had the cabinet built to the dimensions of the downdraft. I'd say the safest thing would be to have the unit on hand before building/modifying your cabinets if you've got a countertop unit. I'll also say that this setup works extremely well with an induction top (very low heat, slim footprint). Good luck!

Ty. Do I need to purchase a separate blower unit with this model?

Yes the blower is sold seperatly. You'll need to figure out which model blower ypu need based on your needs and space available. I have the PF6 blower, located on the back of my downdraft, so it required a transition piece also. i wanted an external blower, so the noose wpuld be outside, but they require a larger duct and my floor joist space was the limiting factor there.

Ty.

Where is the best place to purchase the Cuttura?

https://www.appliancesconnection.com/best-d49m36sb.html

https://www.appliancesconnection.com/best-eb15.html

That is where I was going to purchase. Glad my Kitchen Designer talked me into a better layout than keeping the range on the peninsula. Just the ventilation savings paid for her fee. And it worked far better than the old location too.

For those not aware, downdraft exhausts are quite ineffective and remove only about 5% of the harmful PM, VOCs and Carcinogens from cooking. They're fine for boiling water on an induction but not much else. And they are especially dangerous in newer more sealed homes.

Choosing to use one is, IMO, quite irresponsible, particularly if there are children in your home. It's your choice and worth doing some research before making that choice.

Here's a start: https://bamasotan.us/range-exhaust-hood-faq/

Would you please stop promoting that garbage. I am a chemical engineer, my wife is a doctor specializing in medical research and your blog is full of misinformation. This is just adifferent version of anti-vax anti mask self-researched B.S.

"Would you please stop promoting that garbage. I am a chemical engineer, my wife is a doctor specializing in medical research and your blog is full of misinformation. This is just adifferent version of anti-vax anti mask self-researched B.S."

As I've stated many many times, if there is anything in the blog that is incorrect then please post what specifically is incorrect in this thread: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6099827/exhaust-hood-faq-ii and let's discuss it.

My goal is accurate information and if there is something inacccurate then let's figure it out and change it.

This is, in essence, the problem with your blog... exaggeration. You haven't stated it many times. You have asked me post on that thread one time. Who are the other people here that you have asked to also post on that thread who have declined?

Next, I don't want to bump your thread. The best solution to misinformation is letting it fade into obscurity.

Finally, the problem with the blog is your ability to process information for relevance and importance, to understand the problems with published research, and to assign perspective to research... something which I have discussed ad nauseum and you refused to change your blog. So why should I waste my time, or my wife's time, reproving a point that you have thus far been willing to argue? The entire medical portion of your blog is nothing more than an argument from ignorance logical fallacy.

Here is where I got as response to your blog before my wife walked in and said, "Stop arguing with people doing their own research on the internet. You are wasting your time because too much of their identity is wrapped up in proving they are right. You will put more effort into this than your own research and never move the needle"

When I started seeing the linked blog some time ago I blew it off as industry fodder with a bit of good information and some completely off base misrepresentations that existed to drive sales. I just realized that this is not actually industry fodder and is just self researched and provided in an attempt to help others. However, I have some serious concerns about the validity of the early assertions in the blog.

Let me start by saying that I don't disagree with much of the advice given on exhaust, only with the inflation of their importance to our health. I am going to start with something that most would take as a bit condescending, it really isn't meant to be that way, but I don't know another way to phrase it that is so effective.

There is a phenomenon known as overinformed and undereducated, this is sort of an offshoot of Dunning-Kruger. It is basically the misconception that an otherwise smart person can achieve understanding by gathering information. While this seems reasonable it is akin to drawing a conclusion about the construction of a pyramid, by extensively studying the top block. You are missing the entire support structure that helps frame that analysis.

I have a Masters in applied statistics and I have published in peer reviewed journals on research and development funding and valuation. I began my career in R&D for industrial coatings (mostly aerosols, ,many of which were suspected carcinogens) and am somewhat familiar with fluid dynamics. My wife (who now wants to be left out this) does medical research from time to time and since I am a bit better with stats than she is, I have become familiar with some basic medical research as I have gotten the "privilege" of helping out. Although not in pathology or epidemiology we read a lot of cancer literature as she had cancer twice before 35.

One of the things we do when we are researching is restrict the population to a very focused group. This allows important work but it can be a barrier to non-researcher understanding. So for example, suppose I am studying genetic mutations that produce five-leaf clovers in nature. So I comb a small region and gather 200 five-leaf clovers. Suppose I find statistical evidence that 80% of five-leaf clovers are grown in soil with trace amounts of a particular pesticide, but only 50% of all clovers are grown in soil with trace amounts of a particular pesticide. I could then write a paper noting that a high percentage of mutations causing five-leaf clovers are associated with that pesticide. Someone might then read that research and post a blog about the pesticide causing genetic mutations, but they are ignoring the overall rarity of five-leaf clovers. While 80% of five leaf clovers may have this pesticide present, only one in several hundred thousand of the clovers grown in soil with trace amounts of this pesticide ever mutate.

Between 6 and 8 never-smokers per 10,000 people develop lung cancer. Being able to associate even 5% of those 6 to 8 per 10,000 people with a specific cause, such as how they cook, would be an important breakthrough. However, before you run out and spend several thousand dollars on your kitchen ventilation remember that the vast majority of people who also had that behavior never develop cancer. So while it might be proper to say that there is a small increased risk of cancer with indoor cooking, it is improper to say that indoor cooking is degrading your health.

Some other specific points... indoor air quality is actually ranked fairly high on the list of reasons for health issues world-wide, but not in the U.S. where it is near the bottom. Moreover it has been going down consistently, in 1990 when houses breathed more, we were at about .28 deaths per 100,000 people from indoor air quality, in 2017 we were at .09 deaths per 100,000 people. For perspective, India was at about 51 deaths per 100,000 people in 2017.

The blog states the U.S. has the best healthcare in the world, but in reality, we rank between 35 and 40 for overall healthcare access and a bit lower for maintenance care. It would be more appropriate to say that the U.S. has the best healthcare in the world for the 75% of Americans who have access to it, and our mortality rate for those with access is actually also among the best in the world.

----

This is where I stopped because my wife is right. One of the big differences between people using research in furtherance of a position and researchers is how willing they are to abandon their work. Researchers will readily abandon work they put thousands of hours into when a better explanation comes out. People doing their own research become so invested in that research that they would rather argue than abandon when they have reasonable explanations to the contrary. They just set unreasonably high bars to overcome.

Sadly enough the blog is fine without the ridiculous scare tactics. They should be omitted but I fear they never will be.

ETA: I would note that I left Chem E some time ago for the dark side of finance and accounting. I went from coatings research to oil & gas development to paying for those things.

Thanks @bry911. If it's OK I'm going to repost it to: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6099827/exhaust-hood-faq-ii and respond there. That will prevent this thread from getting clogged up and more importantly keep exhaust hood discussion together for future searches.

@opaone - Since I specifically said, "I don't want to bump your thread. The best solution to misinformation is letting it fade into obscurity" I obviously really meant we should bump that thread.

Do you see why I might be hesitant to engage with you? I think it would be best for my mental health if I just continue to point out misinformation when I see it and have time.

Thanks to all for sharing your thoughts. Much appreciated!

I have decided that a traditional island hood is the best fit for my kitchen. Now looking for brand recommendations. I have gone way over (!) budget on my kitchen remodel and it appears that there is a big price spread on exhaust fans.

Here is what I'm currently looking at, but would love other recommendations:

$200/200 CFM

https://www.wayfair.com/appliances/pdp/akdy-30-217-cfm-convertible-wall-mount-range-hood-akdy1013.html?refid=GX473160668058.~b&position=&network=g&pcrid=473160668058&device=c&targetid=aud-903039212353:dsa-898523735464&channel=GoogleIntent&gclid=CjwKCAjwqeWKBhBFEiwABo_XBtYlwd2nbLqR9WqWAWwNFjpCk8RgZ1ybLbaq7Enq4tdFTBT6H7tNphoCG7wQAvD_BwE

$500/390 CFM

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-30-convertible-range-hood-stainless-steel/6372682.p?skuId=6372682&ref=212&loc=1&ref=212&loc=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwqeWKBhBFEiwABo_XBhsFdoiiGgUAvdCNmAZC07DVD_Tt88Klj92QqaRva_f7NYrAo94-oRoCOWQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

$609/900 CFM

https://www.amazon.com/IKTCH-Stainless-Kitchen-Adjustable-IKIS02-30/dp/B08QRCZFFM/ref=pd_ybh_a_3?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=Q6BV77TCZ3E4785H541P&th=1

$1,050/700 CFM

https://www.ambienthomeus.com/products/zline-30-in-remote-blower-island-mount-range-hood-in-stainless-steel?currency=USD&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping

$1200/600 CFM

https://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/XORIC.html

Any suggestions on which downdraft to go with a JennAir Oblivian JIC4736HB or Thermador Liberty CIT367XM induction cooktop?

The JennAir 14" $1499 JXD7036YS appears to be same thing as the Kitchenaid and Whirlpool models for less money.

The Thermador 15” $1799 UCVP36XS or 18" $2099 model has remote wall $729/ inline blower $609 blower.

The Best Cattura 18" $1739 D49M36SBand the 650 CFM options: internal blower PF6 36” for $339 or EB6 600 CFM External Blower for $598.

Thinking either Jennair or Best. Thermador seems overpriced.

Mind is top of the line. It still doesn’t work

Laura. I’m considering getting a down draft as I’m opening up the wall my stove and hood is on. Are you saying that yours does not work? I don’t want to make pricy divisions that I’ll regret.

I replaced a Jenn air gas cooktop with built in downdraft with a bosch gas cooktop and zephyr downdraft, neither of the downdrafts work well. The zephyr has a rise of 9.5 inches and can pull plenty of air but it pulls the flame and heat too much to cook well. Maybe if the cooktop was induction then the heat would not be disrupted as much, I do not know. If my kitchen allowed, I would much prefer overhead venting.

Downdraft DOES NOT work. It's a simple matter of physics - hot air rises. It would take an enormous amount of airflow to change that.

If your kitchen is only for show then downdraft or whatever is fine. If you cook in your kitchen and care about your and others health then you need a standard overhead range hood. More: https://bamasotan.us/range-exhaust-hood-faq/

Friends of ours own a cabin that has a pop-up vent. This is of course a huge improvement over a downdraft. At least it doesn't require the rising cooking plume to make a 180° turn and somehow move down. That would be physically near impossible. There simply isn't enough pressure differential between atmospheric pressure and (at most!) a vacuum to suck all this air through a small aperture.

With the pop-up vent, things are slightly better, as it only needs to redirect air sideways. For pots that are directly next to the vent, this works OK'ish. For pots in the front, not really.

For use in a cabin, that's fine. It only gets used occasionally, and the kitchen is mostly used for very light cooking. Boiling eggs, making pasta, or heating up soup are all things that work fine. And if those activities let some fumes escape, nobody is going to complain much. After all, it's just for a day or two on a weekend trip. Most of the cooking is probably happening outside on the BBQ anyway.

Now, if this was a main kitchen that gets used every day and is intended for making full meals, then no, I would not recommend a pop-up vent. And I would never recommend a downdraft. That's just wasting money on a noise maker that otherwise is pretty much useless. A countertop white-noise-machine is a cheaper product that does the same thing.

@kathymasini if you are cooking with gas don't even consider any exhaust other than an overhead, properly sized and vented hood with make up air. The particulates are dangerous (nitrogen dioxide, carbon monoxide, and formaldehyde). If you have electric or induction and do a lot of high heat cooking, meat searing, or frying, it will produce fine and ultrafine particulates that are lung irritants and can cause health problems. The Best Caturra pop up vent rises to 18" but there is no capture area above the cooking plume. It may be better than nothing, but it's incapable of doing what an overhead exhaust can do.

I’m sorry but I would guess most people live with a superficial fan and microwave over his/her range. I would also bet most people aren’t running all the burners at once when preparing dinner. I’ve had the Cattura downdraft by Best for almost 4 years now with the smallest blower output. We have a 48” range. I love the downdraft and it works great.

I think range hoods are a loud, bulky, filth-accumulating, waste of time and money. That's my opinion. If things get a little smoky, we just…horror of horrors…open the window. Or the back door. Or both for 5 minutes.

Granted, we don’t do much searing or frying to begin with....I mainly eat slow-cooked soups for health concerns...

But it's ironic, isn't it? - because Houzz users such as opaoneare recommending those bulky wall monstrosities to "properly remove carcinogens"... while (likely) consuming plenty more carcinogens found in his seared, smoked, processed, crispy, oxidized seed-oil pan-fried foods... and shaming people in this thread for not being "responsible parents" when choosing a downdraft... as 99% of the world has NEITHER a hood nor a downdraft.

I lived in Mexico for a bit where it seems every person has a Chef in their family and no one uses ventilation hoods in their homes. I lived in Japan for about 2.5 years and again in 2018, and it was rare to find a venting hood in ANYBODY's kitchen... and their life expectancy is among the highest in the world... certainly more than ours.

So if the concern is your health, I have a hard time seeing a causation between illness and temporarily sniffing a ribeye.

OTOH, researches suggests that if your food produces a lot of smoke (searing, frying, smoking), and you CONSUME that food, you're eating toxic products like NFCs, trans-fatty acids (TFAs), polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and advanced glycation end-products (AGEs), and more. Fried, charred, and slightly burnt foods can contain carcinogenic substances.

Is it a guarantee you'll have health issues? No.... But neither is selecting a downdraft over an overhead vent.

So...when people like opaoneshake his finger and scold people for having a downdraft, saying you should "care about the health of others" or that people are "irresponsible parents"... How would you like it if I'd say : "What on earth are you feeding YOUR children that you require such strong venting in your home in the first place???"

Anyways, we love our downdraft. Go for it.

Our cooktops faces a large window with a breathtaking view of our garden and lake, and it's much better than facing a bulky, expensive, overhyped machine above our heads.