Risk of steam damage to uppers?
stillpitpat
5 years ago
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Fori
5 years agoNidnay
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRelated Discussions
At the risk of getting laughed at...
Comments (13)KarinL, please explain what you mean "I could work up a head of steam over those tables" Well, I picked up both of these tables tonight (and the leaf chairs) and the crack is really not horrible, I mean it's a crack of course. The worst part is actually at the edge where there's some material missing. The crack itself appears to be a hairline looking crack. As to their finish, I think that these tables, might not need more than an application of RAF, they do not appear scratched or damaged in any way. Just dusty. That is not to say that I would not consider painting them at some point. BUT I think I would take the one in good condition, RAF it, put it in one of my booths and if it doesn't sell then consider taking it out and painting it after that. The one with the damaged marble, I'll take better pics of it and ask for your opinions again....See MoreReplacing black steam condensate return pipe
Comments (1)Black Iron Pipe (BIP) is an extremely rugged material and before commencing any replacement I would have to see the damage to determine if the damage actually warrants replacement or if it is more cosmetic than functional damage. Having said that, if it is determined that the pipe must be replaced, ALL connections on BIP MUST BE made by means of approved NPT (national pipe taper) threaded fittings. When it is necessary to cut out a section of BIP pipe the options are to: 1. Locate the nearest fittings on either side of the section that must be removed. Cut the damaged pipe so it will be able to rotate freely, then holding the fitting with one pipe wrench, unscrew the pipe from the fitting leaving the fitting open where you will be able to attach the new pipe. 2. Cut the damaged section of the pipe out, then using a pipe threading die, cut new threads on the end of the servicable pipe. You can generally rent a set of pipe threading dies at a local tool rental facility and at some big box home supply centers, a word of caution here, You must use cutting oil very liberally when cutting threads otherwise you run a serious risk of damaging the pipe thread dies and making a ragged thread which will not properly seal. Also note that both ends of a pipe have a right handed thread so while you are tightening the pipe on one end, it will be unscrewing from the opposite end, therefore when installing a repair section you will need to install a union so that the pipe can be screwed into the fittings on both ends, then the final connection made by tightening the union. If you can post some photos I may be able to offer some further advise....See MoreShallow depth cabinet run--uppers?
Comments (15)I'd agree with those who suggest having 15" lowers if possible. I can't fit 15" where mine are because of a walkway and squeezing in a laundry room behind the nook. It was either 12" or nothing in my case, and I needed it for the two sets of family china. But if I had the 3" to spare, I'd definitely go for the 15" lowers and 12" uppers. If you're using it everyday, it's nice to be able to look downward at what you're doing, even if you have to pull something out to the edge of the counter. The cabinet company suggested that you can save money if you only want cabinets with shelves in them by using an upper cabinet on the lowers and having your contractor build a small recessed base to set it on. You trim it out the same as a base with toe kick and all and it looks just like a base. I think you'd need to be confident in your contractor's ability to measure and make everything level and all, but I don't doubt you'd save money. I'm opting to use custom 12"depth bases because I really need the drawers on the bases. The only other thing I'd watch is the exposed end of the cabinet in the middle of the run. I've read stories on GW where the end panel finish didn't closely match the face finish, primarily because the doors are glazed and the end panels were not, or the plywood end took up the stain differently than the hardwood fronts. I'd just ask the question of the cabinet company with your particular finish. If you're uncertain of the exact match, you could disguise it with a valance or some other decorative trim....See Moresteam damage to cabinets from steam oven or warming drawer?
Comments (7)Some of it depends on your cabinets and how they're finished. If they're veneered, you'd have more cause for concern. You might want to find out from your cabinetmaker. I don't cook daily, but if you call my five years with a steam oven one year of heavy use, I'll say there's a little concern, but a kitchen is a living place and there will be some wear. Like door dings at the supermarket. :) The only place where the finish on my cabinets is damaged is on one of the doors under the cleanup sink. I always wipe up when there are drips, but I have some alligator tooth pale spots where someone obviously allowed it to stay wet for a long time. This is bamboo, btw, which is a laminated product where the surfaces are thick. The second greatest damage to the finish is on the fridge and freezer where hands tend to hold the doors rather than the handles. It's just a clear varnish type of finish, which is supposed to be very hardy, but that's a lot of friction. Over the steam oven (Gaggenau)--I don't often use the reduce steam function which condenses it so plenty of plumes escape--if I feel carefully, the grain is raised slightly in the frame around the oven, but barely at all if any on the cabinet door an inch above the top of the oven. BTW, I also get plumes of steam from the regular oven. My warming drawer is a simple mechanical one, but does have steam vents, which are usually in the open position. They let out the bottom, and all along the top of the inside of the front panel, where steam could get at the whole interior frame, plus out to the surrounding cabinets, but hasn't. I had one unfortunate incident though. I read that one could dehydrate in a warming drawer that was left slightly open. Not a good outcome, but the prolonged steam exposure from having it actually open and drying fruit did raise the grain on the drawer above. Mind you, you can't see that the grain is raised on either side (ovens and WD on opposite sides of kitchen). You can feel it. And only by feeling how smooth the rest is, can you tell it's altered. There is absolutely no delamination, but that's factory done, etc., and a thin veneer heat glued to MDF or something will be more delicate. My conclusion is that if you can afford a steam oven, you probably have good enough cabinets that they can survive it. :)...See MoreLisa SW
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