I'm glad you posted this as I have a somewhat similar situation. I'm still in the planning stages as well, and am planning to use IKEA cabinets. I have a nook that will be perfect for 12" depth base cabinets. It is a 60-inch run on the right-hand side in this picture:

this is a very timely post as I was JUST having this conversation. I too have a "nook" sort of area where I am considering 12-15" deep uppers and lowers. I am not considering 12-15" deep pantry cabs instead of uppers and lowers. I'm wondering if that size counter space is actually useful or will people just be seeking out a bigger area of countertop space.

I suppose this doesn't really answer your question as to how high to hang the uppers. Maybe you would consider pantry cabs instead. Not sure if you need that counterspace though.

Good luck. I'll be checking back to see others responses as I'm trying to put this to bed.

And I thought I was the only one with the 12" depth nook! I've been designing and redesigning this same area over and over again. I have a 12"D x 48" run on a separate wall in the kitchen. Here are some of the options I've discussed with the KD so far:
-custom 12" D bases with drawers to use for good china and silver.
-Uppers will be 36" or 30" height and the 30" height can be paired with either spice drawers underneath or a wine rack, spanning the entire distance. Or pair the 30" upper with a simple arched valance to create a few more inches of actual height below the countertop without the stark contrast with the other counter areas, which will be 18" between uppers and lowers (with the 30" and arched valance, in the middle you will have about 22" height).
-She also suggested that we change the backsplash here to create something more unique and dramatic to avoid visual comparisons to the other areas of the kitchen, should we decide to alter the height of the cabs.

Right now I'm leaning toward the 30" uppers with valance (with undercabinet lighting), and a nice tile backsplash a little different from the rest of the kitchen. We plan to use the area for a message center (phone, answering machine), fruit bowl, and to set-up as a bar during parties/holidays.

PS- I initial liked the idea of the wine rack, but have decided that having the stash that close could be problematic, especially during construction :-).

Mine isn't really a nook--no space for that! I'd like it to fit into the cabinet run. But a valance to bring the sides down to the lonely dangly cabinet's level might be workable! We're probably going custom and I want a valance over the window/sink too.

I'll try to attach an Ikeaplanner representation of just that wall. Note the fridge will stick out on one end, adding even more uhhhh interest? to the footprint of this cabinet run. It'll be enclosed in cabinetry. Door and drawer selections are just approximated here, but the boxes are about the right size. My picture got cut off, but the end of the room is RIGHT there on the other side of the door by the 12" deep lowers. The cabinetry on the other side will be normal, but only go far enough to line up with the full-depth lowers on the other side; the shallow lowers face a small eating area. I can't really fit full-depth cabinetry here because it just gets too squishy.

{{!gwi}}

It doesn't really bother me, but I don't know that I love it either. But I do understand your reasoning for wanting to do it that way. This is just a thought....would you consider making them glass uppers? If you do, it would make it appear there was a "reason" for the change. I just don't want it to look like a mistake. Oops..the cabinet maker made the cabinets too short! Also, I would either do all drawers on the bottom of that area or all doors to make it look more uniform.

Hi Fori. If at all possible, I would try to make those lowers 15 instead of 12. And make the uppers 12. Leave as big a space between them as possible. And, if you use a valance, make it skinny so it doesn't take away usable arm/hand/appliance space.

I was limited to a run of 18 inch deep lowers and my cab guy was going to make the uppers 18 and 15 deep (it's kind of a hutch like area). And then doors would add to the depth. Thank goodness I made him change it to make the uppers less deep before they were built! Also, when installing, I had him move them higher after one day trying them with the original plan. Again, thank goodness. You would be amazed at how having them the same depth or having the uppers not be high enough will annoy the heck out of you at times. This isn't true of normal depth cabs when there is a big difference between upper and lower cabs. But on our skinnier ones, it really matters!

I wanted the coffee pot to be on that counter and although I could lift the lid to pour the water, I couldn't finegle the coffee pot to fill it. Now I can. And if they are the same depth, the upper will be so in your face every time you reach under there for something.

hope this helps...good luck!

Fori, I think what you have pictured there looks good. It looks balanced and symmetrical to me. I'm not a designer or anything but I think the additional space between uppers and lowers helps the shallower depth bases work.
I like the suggestion of using glass in those uppers that someone else mentioned. Is that an option for you? It would give the uppers a lighter feel, and help the shallow bases feel more substantial.
Nice to know there are others out there tyring to use shallow depth bases!

I'd agree with those who suggest having 15" lowers if possible. I can't fit 15" where mine are because of a walkway and squeezing in a laundry room behind the nook. It was either 12" or nothing in my case, and I needed it for the two sets of family china. But if I had the 3" to spare, I'd definitely go for the 15" lowers and 12" uppers. If you're using it everyday, it's nice to be able to look downward at what you're doing, even if you have to pull something out to the edge of the counter.

The cabinet company suggested that you can save money if you only want cabinets with shelves in them by using an upper cabinet on the lowers and having your contractor build a small recessed base to set it on. You trim it out the same as a base with toe kick and all and it looks just like a base. I think you'd need to be confident in your contractor's ability to measure and make everything level and all, but I don't doubt you'd save money. I'm opting to use custom 12"depth bases because I really need the drawers on the bases.

The only other thing I'd watch is the exposed end of the cabinet in the middle of the run. I've read stories on GW where the end panel finish didn't closely match the face finish, primarily because the doors are glazed and the end panels were not, or the plywood end took up the stain differently than the hardwood fronts. I'd just ask the question of the cabinet company with your particular finish. If you're uncertain of the exact match, you could disguise it with a valance or some other decorative trim.

Thanks for all the input--very helpful.

Glass (opaque, naturally) would work. We haven't picked a style OR stain vs. paint yet, but I always like glass. And yes, the half-door, half-drawer look is bad. Details!

I can probably do 15 and 12. I am short enough that if I've got a 25" gap, the uppers will NOT be in my face :) but perhaps I should consider others. hehe. I AM reminded of some cabinets in my childhood house--they were short ones over a peninsula and if you were my height the doors did some serious head damage when left open. I should make sure I don't lose an eye with these. One more reason for a setback.

Now that I think about it, we did want at least 14" deep so I can use the stand mixer there (or at least park it there).

As far as a valance goes, it would be very petite except in the corner created by the height disparity where a little arc could connect the cabinets. I guess I'd need a matching one on the far side which would require a chunk of trim on the end...I think I'd better go more traditional than contemporary if I want to pull that off...

How about making that area look a little more hutch like? It could still house your appliances/mw etc., but maybe along with the glass add something down the sides to it and make it look like a piece of furniture. What style are you going for. There are so many different things you could do traditional or modern to make it a feature.

I had to do a shallow cabinet in a corner because a window was in the way that I didn't want to move. I was considering lots of things and finally decided on a book shelf which I am so excited about.

mygar, love the bookshelf idea. What a great place for... cookbooks in a kitchen! Just curious, what is the aisle width between your island and stove? Thanks!

Thanks! I am excited about keeping my cookbooks there. You can't really tell in this picture but the bottom on the bookshelf has 2 doors - so it's like a 12" deep bottom cabinet.

The aisle is 42" wide.

Here is a different view.

That's very nice! If I didn't really need the closed storage, that'd be my first choice.