fyi, the rims can be painted after installation. Charliedawg, our plugs are perfect. With the lakeview, fireplace, tv, open kitchen and arches to DR and foyer, there is really only one natural place for our sofa. I knew we wanted to put a sofa table behind it, so we left room for that and enough room to walk between table and the cedar posts at the kitchen opening. The electrician said there was no rush since the plugs were going into the main level, which is second story, so we were able to wait until house was framed to decide exactly where they were going. DH and I used empty boxes to place where the sofa and measured to make sure there was enough room behind for table. (You can see the two cans in the kitchen we didn't need :( ) Here is a link that might be useful: Great room

The wiring and junction box is at the center of the florescent ficture that is up there now. If you remove the lamps and remove the baffle you can see where the wires enter the fixture. You did not say the length of the present fixture. It is probable held in place with lag screws the removal of which will leave holes in your ceiling which will have to be repaired. Suggest you go to a big box store or a lighting store and look at some lighting options. It does not take a lot of light to elumine 80 sq. ft. especially with undercounter lighting.

Hello Dede! Have you seen the West Ninth Vintage [Dixon 6-Light Pendant[(https://www.houzz.com/products/west-ninth-vintage-dixon-pendant-chandelier-prvw-vr~25144660)? This is a handcrafted light built with heavy duty steel sockets combined with vintage twisted cloth wire to hang individual pendants. Shown here with Edison bulbs (sold separately). Ceiling to the Steel T bar is approximately 14". Each Pendant comes with 4' of twisted wire to adjust individual pendant lights by wrapping around the bar. Feel free to browse through the rest of our products!

Apologies for the length of this post, but I hope those with the patience to get through it find it useful. To each his own on color temperature (CT). I grew up with incandescent lights, and learned to dislike cool white (4100K) fluorescents in kitchens, schools, offices, and stores. So, I find anything from 4000 deg K up too garish and cold in most cases. What a lot of folks don't realize about incandescents is that with all other things being roughly equal, the higher the wattage, the higher the CT. I think that's why a room lit brightly with 2700K compact fluorescents or LEDs somehow doesn't seem quite right to me. Conversely, a dimly lit room at 4000K or 5000K CT looks to me like a drizzly, depressing, grey cloudy day. I find that I prefer around 2700K for normally lit rooms, and around 3000-3500K for brightly lit rooms. Many stores don't stock 3500K, so 3000K is generally close enough. I can tolerate 4000K if the room is really bright, but would rather have less. When you get to 5000K and up -- that's parking lot lighting, IMO. Ugh. Not in the house. However, I have a 5000K fluorescent over the washer and dryer. It makes sorting black and dark blue socks easier. :) Again, CT is a matter of taste. You may find you like 5000K or even 6500K. The other factor to consider is color rendering index (CRI). CRI is, roughly speaking, a measure of how evenly the light is distributed across the color spectrum in its color temperature. A light can have an averaged-out CT of, say, 2700K, but be "peaky," with some parts of the spectrum too high, and some parts too low. This causes certain colors to look odd, even though white items may look right. Low CRI is the reason that cheap fluorescents and LEDs sometimes make furnishings and clothes look discolored. Without getting too technical with a formal definition of CRI, let's just say that a CRI of 100 is perfect. A halogen incandescent lamp is effectively 100 CRI. On the other end of things we find those pinkish high pressure sodium (HPS) streetlights that make everything look grey, with a CRI of around 20. I think CRI is one reason that almost everyone hated the ghastly old cool white fluorescents -- their CRI was often pretty low, typically 60-65. The warm white fluorescents of the 1950s through 1970s were actually worse, around 50-55 CRI. The old fluorescent grow lights were a special case because they were designed with deliberate peaks at light frequencies that plants thrive on. They actually had a negative CRI. Except for really cheap replacement linear T12 fluorescents, those low CRI lights are pretty much history. Today most good fluorescents (compact and linear) and LED retrofits are over 80 CRI. Some get into the 90s. Again, this is personal, but I find that once CRI gets into the upper 80s and low 90s, it's as good as it needs to be, and 80-85 is entirely acceptable. As they say, YMMV.