Finishing White Oak Floors
6 years ago
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- 6 years ago
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Anyone putting in white oak floors? Can I see pics?
Comments (9)Since no one has responded--I have 3" quarter sawn red oak floors if that helps. The main difference between the appearance of red oak and white oak (I'm no expert so I may be wrong) is the color (reddish tint as opposed to greenish/white tint) and the rays in white oak are longer on average than in the red. Also, there is a big difference between the look of quartersawn and regular sawn though, and it sounds like you are going with regular sawn so my pictures probably wouldn't help....See Moreoil or water based finish for white oak floor??
Comments (1)Solvent-based, oil-modified varnish will give wood a warmer tone and it will increase with time. A water-borne finish will more closely maintain the color of the original wood. However, water-borne finishes have less solids and require more coats, dry faster, have lower VOC's, and require more installation experience especially for the first coat in order to avoid lifting the surface grain of the wood. I would not consider a matte finish for any kind floor; it's just not durable enough. "Traffic" is a water-borne polyurethane finish available in semi-gloss and satin. It should only be installed by an experienced professional floor finisher. There are other chemicals added to help the polyurethane dissolve in water and they are often highly toxic to the installer from direct contact....See MoreWhat stain for a rich, dark finish on white oak floor
Comments (6)A regular stand alone stain will not be that dense. You will have to find, a finisher that knows how to layer colors by pre-toning the wood with aniline dye and then your choice of stain color. In your case, pre-tone with ebony aniline dye and layer with antique brown or espresso. How well, the pre-tone is applied will be critical of the final stain outcome. If, you do not want to go that route. You will have to find a finisher that knows how to apply General Finishes water base floor stains. Water base stains has a short working time and can lap. Normal stains are not dense enough, even when pre-treating the wood by water popping....See MoreMatte or Satin Finish on White Oak Floors
Comments (3)So your floors are ALREADY FINISHED in a HARDWAX OIL finish?????? And you now want to add POLYURETHANE? Oh dear. Let's pull that bus over for a minute. OK. Here we are. You have an oil finished floor that is looking dusty. It looks "dusty" because it is THIRSTY. It needs more oil. The maintenance oil that you purchased for the floor at the time it was finished (ahem....I'm making an assumption here) is what it needs. Oiled hardwoods can require multiple oilings a year (1-2 every year) until they take on a lovely patina that says "I'm happy and glowing with love,". If they look DUSTY it is because they haven't had their doses of oil. Their required oil maintenance is probably missing. If you wish to get away from the hardwax oil, this is going to take more than "a light sand". You are going to have to remove ALL THE WOOD that has soaked up the oil. This isn't a quick 'pass' with the sander and redo. Nope. This is taking this down by 4+ passes or more. It takes a LOT of effort to change an oiled floor to a polyurethane floor. Why? Because oil PREVENTS the poly from grabbing. All it takes is a SPECK of oil on a plank to cause adhesion failure. And if you see ONE SPOT with adhesion failure you MUST ASSUME you have other spots that will eventually let go. Please bring in a seasoned professional who works with BOTH oil finishes AND polyurethane finishes. They will know how much wood to take off (that includes all that lovely colour) and how to "eye ball" whether or not they will be able to successfully apply the poly - or if they need to shave off more wood. Please do not think this is easy. Converting these oiled floors can be done. But it is not a quick switch. This is a FULL SAND AND REFINISH. All the colour = gone. All the extra effort to sand WELL PAST the oil contamination = MORE MONEY to do this. An NWFA Certified Sand/Refinisher charges $4-$5/sf for a regular sand/refinish. This could come in at $6-$7/sf. And you only have a 3 year old floor. A full sand and refinish will remove 20 years from your floor's life. You 3 years with this finish is supposed to "last" 20 - 25 years before a full sand and refinish is 'needed'. Please look HARD at the options. Take the time to add the oil...and then keep adding until you feel the wood looks healthy and well oiled. That's how they are supposed to look. What is your oiling routine right now? How about your cleaning/repairing routine? What cleaners are you using? Touch-up colour/oil? When was the last time you did a full oil application (one room at a time is FINE...that's what these floors are known for)?...See MoreRelated Professionals
Jacksonville Flooring Contractors · Lincoln Flooring Contractors · Olney General Contractors · Pocatello General Contractors · East Hanover Interior Designers & Decorators · South Lake Tahoe Architects & Building Designers · Manchester Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Salmon Creek Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Charlotte Furniture & Accessories · Aliso Viejo Furniture & Accessories · Irmo Furniture & Accessories · Ames General Contractors · Hamilton Square General Contractors · Milford Mill General Contractors · Seguin General Contractors- 6 years ago
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