I don't know of a track of of this type designed to be mounted to the ceiling: you may have to mount a beam to the ceiling, then the track to the side of the beam. These systems generally have a roller on the 'captive' end [the direction the door will slide to when open], and some kind of holder to secure the free end when the door is in its closed position. Seems to me you could use the sort of bolt that's used to hold one side of a double door in place, which are often have a spring inside so you can deploy and retract them with your toe. With something along those lines, you'd only need a small holder set into the floor to receive the bolt. Nothing would protrude above floor height.

"I could also just get a pull-down faucet for the sink and aim it at the tub to fill it." You could - but you won't like it. The most one of those will fill is 2.2 gallons a minute - some less that that. Divide your tub's capacity by that and you're looking at 20 minutes to fill +/- Not good. beekeeper - I have one of these and have placed more than half a dozen in projects over the past few years. What you get for your money is a machined brass body that mounts in the ceiling or wall and a plated trim piece. The body is a substantial piece of hardware and chrome,brass, nickel plating costs $$$ too. Whether that's all worth 500 + bucks, is up to you. Like davidro says, it doesn't matter what the delivery system is, this is just an opening for hot water to come out of, albeit one with a bit of engineering. GD & Spanish - the splashing is very much dependent on the mounting height of the unit AND the tub selected AND the location of the water column inside the tub. Mine hardly splashes at all. The ones I have seen that splash only do so for a minute or so until their is enough of a pool in the tub to counteract it. Flat bottom tubs with tall ceilings are going to splash more than one from 7' into a sloped contact point in the tub. Besides , we're talking water in a bathroom, generally tiled so what's the big deal ??? It's not like the amount of splash is the same as taking a shower and leaving the door open. 2. While you are correct in that "the water cools off much more than it would from just a regular tub filler", it's not as if it cools off enough for anyone without a thermometer to tell a difference, and a very sensitive one at that! Sure the air cools the water more from a stream falling from 8 feet than one falling from two feet. But bath water that is 100 + degrees is not going to cool down to 90 deg. in the xtra 1-2 seconds it takes it to fall from the ceiling- get real. Additionally , that filler produces a very dense column of water (laminar) that has little to no air in it, so one might argue it will be hotter and less prone to heat loss than a "regular" filler that introduces room temp air into it's stream - thus cooling it off on it's way to the tub. So don't worry Spanish -your tub will still be plenty hot with that filler if you choose it. IT'S A NON -ISSUE people. I've already alluded to the real issue for lower tub temps - FILL TIME. That's directly related to the delivery system ( valve). If your valve and accompanying filler will only deliver 5 gallons a minute it's going to take a while to fill an 80 gallon tub, and there will be some heat loss. Select a valve that delivers 20 gallons a minute and you can be soaking quicker that most people can undress. Here is a link that might be useful: laminar valve body - see page 2

The best cooktop ventilation depends on your priorities and constraints (more or less like everything else). In commercial practice, it is common to use large capture areas with apertures at about seven feet, but there are many possible approaches, including perforated ceilings leading to exhaust blowers. Commercial practice is heavily biased toward effective and efficient (power wise) capture and containment. Residential practice can make use of commercial approaches, constrained by architecture, aesthetics, cost, and noise. Sometimes, however, the constraints force significant deviation from the most effective approach to capture and containment, considered to be a hood over the cooktop that has an aperture large enough to encompass the rising and expanding cooking plumes from the burners, and with enough air flow to ensure that what is captured is expelled outside. Side draft ventilation will usually have limited ability to capture rising effluent from burners distant from the aperture without having a flow rate that is impractical and/or noisy. (The plume can have an upward velocity of 3 ft/s; the side draft is unlikely to "bend" that plume completely toward itself unless very tall and/or very strong.) A side draft can at least reduce the grease load on the house surfaces and cooking odors distributed beyond the cooktop. Ceiling capture areas have to be large enough to not only encompass most of the expanding cooking plumes, but also the ever easier effects of cross drafts in deviating the plume direction. One would want a capture area of the cooktop size expanded by, say, 0.3 times the distance between the cooktop and the ceiling just for plume expansion without considering unknown to this writer cross draft conditions. So a 3 by 2 foot cooktop could at 5 feet above the cooktop require an added 1.5 feet of width and length. This now 4.5 by 3.5 ft aperture will need perhaps a bit lower velocity of blower air flow than the desirable 90 ft/min velocity at the normal hood height due to the plume cooling off some by the time it gets that high. Lets assume an average of 70 ft/min over the collection area is needed (this is a guess; I have no data for that distance above the cooking surface). This velocity times the area required computes to 1100 CFM. This will require at least a 1500 CFM zero-static-pressure rated blower in most circumstances, and a deliberate MUA system. While roof hugging centrifugal blowers such as Abbaka, Broan, and Wolf sell can somehow operate in snow (I have a Wolf and it stays clear in southern NH), a more commercial style up-blast configuration blower would be better for deep snow conditions. Some upblast blowers at Greenheck kas

I would also add that you want the heating ducts and plumbing pipes wrapped with insulation as well. Right now is the PERFECT time to do it because everything is exposed. Metal (like duct work) LOVES to transmit noise (telephone WIRES are METAL...ahem...just saying). Wrap those puppies and you will have removed a HUGE source of sound from multiple areas of the house (there is NOTHING like hearing the details of someone's day via the duct work from two stories above...at 1am). I've always liked the 'double stuffing' of the ceiling. If you double stuff the joists (two layers of mineral wool instead of one) then you can probably go with the lower priced product. So long as their densities are the same and the material make up are the same then you should get awfully close to the same ratings. Use the resilient channels throughout...you can't think of the bedroom as being one area and the rest another...if one part 'leaks' noise then the other part will too. Think of the entire space as a bathtub. If you have a hole in one end of the bathtub, it will leak because the water will find it's own level. Noise kinda does the same thing. The other option, if you don't want to use the resilient channels (because you want the ceiling height maintained) then you can look at Green Glue liquid acoustic barrier. There *MIGHT be an application where they apply the liquid/foam to the joists and then mount/screw the drywall to the joists. Green Glue also produces drywall/foam additive that can be used INSIDE the holes for the screws (you drill the pilot hole, you fill it with the foam/liquid and then drive the screw into place). This acts like a mini-resilient channel. And then use the acoustic drywall. And remember your SOLID CORE door for the bedroom. That way you reduce every ounce of noise moving from the basement area into the bedroom area. You should be fine using ALL of the options open to you. You can never have too much noise abatement. You really can't. Silence is silence. Once you achieve it, it is difficult to figure out which bit was 'overkill'.