Thanks. Perhaps it's a typo in the advertising and the airflow efficiency is 84, but I will follow up with the company to double check. If that's the case, however, is fan V still more efficient? Also, if it helps, fan A has a "premium power 188x25 mm torque-induction motor," and fan V has a "premium power 165x25 mm dc motor."

If you are going with the colors that Starbucks uses, they typically have various hues of brown, black, taupe, gray, latte and some accents which I think looks really classy. If it is not a big room, you may want to keep the ceiling on the lighter side so it doesn't close the room down...just my opinion. You can post a picture by using the following: Type... Then type... img Then leave a space Type... src= Then put the image location in quotes... "XXX" And end with... >

And I’m realizing that the armstrong tiles are not an option because They would go in one by one, and if we need access to an area behind ( which we will) we’d have to take out the whole row.... and can’t put led lights directly in . Now to like at ceilingmax vs ceilinglink https://modernize.com/home-ideas/17729/ceiling-max-and-ceiling-link

I would also add that you want the heating ducts and plumbing pipes wrapped with insulation as well. Right now is the PERFECT time to do it because everything is exposed. Metal (like duct work) LOVES to transmit noise (telephone WIRES are METAL...ahem...just saying). Wrap those puppies and you will have removed a HUGE source of sound from multiple areas of the house (there is NOTHING like hearing the details of someone's day via the duct work from two stories above...at 1am). I've always liked the 'double stuffing' of the ceiling. If you double stuff the joists (two layers of mineral wool instead of one) then you can probably go with the lower priced product. So long as their densities are the same and the material make up are the same then you should get awfully close to the same ratings. Use the resilient channels throughout...you can't think of the bedroom as being one area and the rest another...if one part 'leaks' noise then the other part will too. Think of the entire space as a bathtub. If you have a hole in one end of the bathtub, it will leak because the water will find it's own level. Noise kinda does the same thing. The other option, if you don't want to use the resilient channels (because you want the ceiling height maintained) then you can look at Green Glue liquid acoustic barrier. There *MIGHT be an application where they apply the liquid/foam to the joists and then mount/screw the drywall to the joists. Green Glue also produces drywall/foam additive that can be used INSIDE the holes for the screws (you drill the pilot hole, you fill it with the foam/liquid and then drive the screw into place). This acts like a mini-resilient channel. And then use the acoustic drywall. And remember your SOLID CORE door for the bedroom. That way you reduce every ounce of noise moving from the basement area into the bedroom area. You should be fine using ALL of the options open to you. You can never have too much noise abatement. You really can't. Silence is silence. Once you achieve it, it is difficult to figure out which bit was 'overkill'.