I have glass tiles but I guess mine are different. But I will say this if you get 10 glass door companies out there you will get 10 opinions on what needs to happen. The people that don't bring levels and such get rid of them first. They wanted to put support rods across the top of mine and drill into my floor. Here is how mine is constructed maybe you can tweak it to fit your needs. I have a 28" wide x 80" tall 3/8" thick door that has 45 deg hinges that swings off of a 1/2" thick piece of glass that goes from floor to ceiling. There are 2 clips on the wall and one at the top where this glass goes to the ceiling. This holds the panel steady. It is just siliconed at the wall and bottom, no drilling into floor. The other fixed panel is 28" wide x 80" tall 3/8" thick and has only one small attachment at the top corner the rest is siliconed in. It works beautifully and you see the true beauty of the glass not a bunch of hardware and head rails. My Glass tiles are bullet proof as it is glass laminated onto porcelain and it is really tough to drill through but I don't think they should have a problem using the correct drill bit and possibly keeping it wet while drilling with acetone or water to keep it cool. This company might have had problems before and they are now nervous with the situation. I suggest that you keep getting quotes. It's a pain and slows the process but in the end positive results.

I am not familiar with that fireplace - but you should look on line to see if you can download the instructions. If it is a direct vent wood burner -like mine is- then you should have the doors closed. Otherwise, the fireplace is sucking warm air out of your house. But read the manual - make sure that there is an external vent for bringing oxygen in needed for combusution. Otherwise - you will create a lot of smoke if you close the doors and the fire doesn't have enough air for good combustion. My woodburner (a Freplace Xtrodinare 44) is designed to have the doors closed when burning. It has 2 external air intake vents plus it is a direct vent and takes air in through the outter vent inside the flue (the inner vent is for exhaust). I have to be very careful when I open the doors since there is a pressure change between inside the unit where the wood is burning and the rooms in the house. When I open the door just a crack, the fire breaths more air and burns more rapidly until the presue is equalized. I throw in a few more logs and then close the doors. I also have an additonal blower on the unit that takes fresh cold air from outside and circulates it around the fireplace to heat it up - and that warm air is then blown into the family room. This fan is on a thermostat and only comes on when the fireplace is really hot. That is the trick to making this work as a backup heater when the power goes out - that fan must be on a backup generator so that I can push warmed air around the house. I love this thing - I only wish I put a second wood burner in as a backup heat source. I have 2 other gas fireplaces - but you cannot beat the wood burner for the looks, the amount of heat it can generate, and the realtively low cost to run it.

Follow up (I'm OP): GC contacted the lead guy (owner?) of glass co., and within days they were at my house to discuss. They said the door's vertical sweep (which closes to the fixed glass 1/2 panel - see pic) could be replaced with a thinner one. And some glass cos. don't even put a sweep there. They said to totally disregard everything the receptionist said - she had no business diagnosing the problem. The thinner sweep would only be the top half of the door. But we're thinking your eye won't notice that the bottom half has a thicker sweep because there's a 1/2 wall, tiled, there. Get this: The day they showed up the door worked again (pivoted both in and out of the shower)! It was colder - wildly guessing the walls are expanding in heat, or maybe its just a stiff sweep problem (they didn't opine as to cause). Glass co. owner gave me his text and direct dial/vm, and said he'll install a thinner sweep whenever - i.e., if I want, I can wait until its hot again. The only thing I find annoying is that, well, I paid about $3,900 with tax for the glass (HCOL area), and seems I should have a door that fits with the usual sweep. And I'm concerned that if we go with the thinner sweep, maybe the walls will contract when it cold again. But I guess I would rather be done with this and, if it does leak in the winter, deal with that problem then. My 1 year warranty is up Dec. 2017.

I went with a vinyl floor cloth..it's washable and I take it away and stuck it under a guest bed when I don't want to see it they have many nice designs https://www.spicherandco.com/home.php?cat=1398 I bought mine on Garnet Hill though I think..less design choice but same maker..probably was on sale or something https://www.garnethill.com/vintage-vinyl-c2ae-floorcloths/rugs-home-decor/rugs/455303 I'm very pleased with the quality, and how it doesn't move but doesn't get stuck to the wood beneath either