Attractive indoor door Mat that doesn't look like a door mat
arboston
6 years ago
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arboston
6 years agoRelated Discussions
cheap kitchen floor that doesn't _look_ cheap?
Comments (28)Something bad happened that actually was a very, very good thing... After following breiaj's instructions to the letter, two of the floor tiles in the bathroom popped up a couple of days later and wouldn't stay stuck. When I pulled them up the rest of the way, I found a leak! If it hadn't been for those tiles unsticking, we wouldn't have found that leak until it did a LOT more damage - like made a big ole mess of the kitchen ceiling. So here's one way in which vinyl tile might actually be BETTER than sheet! A few notes WRT breiaj's instructions... I admit to dropping back to $3.99 paintbrushes because they became unworkable so quickly - the glue would start to dry up in the bristles while we were working and it would become more like a paddle than a brush! We didn't have any problems with bristle loss. 2" flat-ended paintbrushes were just the right size, a wider brush seemed like it would save time but was really more awkward to work with, especially with cut pieces. Don't bother wearing rubber gloves in hopes of keeping your hands clean, they stick to the tile's adhesive and to the adhesive you're spreading on and just generally irritate the crap out of you. :-) The adhesive - Armstrong's anyway - is kind of hard on your hands though, and contrary to the label does not wash off with soap and water! We ended up using a "painter's wipes" product we had on hand to clean up our hands about every hour because we would get too sticky to work effectively, and our fingertips were pretty raw and sore afterward. Even though it costs a bit more it's a lot easier to work with the smaller containers of adhesive using this brush-on method, because the bucket gunks up something awful. If you're laying more than about 100 square feet, seriously consider coughing up for the vinyl tile cutter (homedepot.com has one for about $50, or you can rent a superduper heavy-duty one for about the same for a weekend)... scoring and snapping with a utility knife sucks after a while, it's slow and hard on your hands. Make sure you have a comfortable utility knife no matter what though, and a LOT of blades. Stanley makes a really nice knife in their FatMax line, with a rubber-cushioned handle. A jamb or undercut saw ($15) makes dealing with those door jambs SO much easier than trying to cut the tile around them! We removed the baseboards; we were going to replace them with vinyl cove but the damn stuff just would not cooperate so we patched the baseboards with wood filler galore and put them back, and it looked SO much neater than butting the tiles up to the baseboards. deeje, I've checked around with several manufacturers of vinyl tile and the biggest deal WRT moisture is not to slop around too much water when you mop - contrary to popular belief, you don't need a gallon bucket full of near-boiling water and some vile chemical to get a floor clean! Try a well-squeezed-out sponge or terrycloth/microfiber mop instead of a sopping string or rag mop instead. Those microfiber cleaning cloths fit on Swiffer handles really well, if like me you are too cheap to buy the Swiffer cloths. :-) ctaylors6, the instructions in the Cryntel box agree with the Lowes guy - wash well-secured vinyl very well, rinse well, allow to dry thoroughly. I'd use something like TSP that would destroy any gloss on the existing floor. Our vinyl was trashed so we couldn't leave it, so I can't speak to the adhesive method on top of vinyl. We still haven't gotten the kitchen floor laid down yet. We had to tear out some of the subfloor and replace it, and then do a lot of leveling and sanding on the rest, got diverted with a day of electrical work, and to top it all off DH has been sick as a dog. :-( Cross your fingers for this weekend!...See MoreIndoor rug/mat for wood floors - exit from pool
Comments (7)This is a recipe for ruining your floors. Everyone needs to dry off--especially swim clothes, not just their feet--and put on dry flip flops before walking in the house. A rubber backed rug will help, but don't be lulled into thinking that will keep everything dry--change it out frequently....See MoreDoor mat - suggestions and how big should it be?
Comments (8)Thanks, all! I have looked at all the suggestions. Oddly enough, I am back to LL Bean! I want pretty but simple. I don't want to deal with fading, and I want something a little bigger than what I have now. @sas, yes, Westchester! Love the Mudhog look but I just think it is a little too small, considering it is smaller than the one we have. Wish that came in a bigger size. The good thing is we don't use this door very often so the mat doesn't have to do serious duty. Can't wait to see a pic of the mat in front of your new door! @Tib, the house is very New England! That's what we love about it. Thanks for the P&H link. @sueb, considering the half circle. Didn't think about it before. Those Cape Cod mats are nice. Might get one for out back. @busybee, good to know about Frontgate. Just got a coupon today. Will take a closer look. Here are the current contenders from LL Bean. Khaki color, unless I go charcoal, but I think I like the khaki better. Crescent or rectangular? The crescent comes in a large size (70"x40")....See MoreLooking for attractive, hard working entrance mat
Comments (15)I have a waterhog mat, a cat, and 2 dogs. I haven't noticed a problem with dog hair. We have a central vac and only have the bare floor brush since we have mostly hardwood floors. It takes a few passes over the mat to get all the dirt but it all comes up fine. It would probably be easier if I had a vacuum with an actual beater bar for lifting dirt. It seems like because of way the mat is grooved, most of the hair and superficial dirt stays on top and is easy to vacuum. Occasionally a piece of mulch or a rock will work its way down into the groove and then usually I have to pick it out by hand as it doesn't vacuum easily....See Morearboston
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