It is possible that your soil is water-retaining. That pot is huge = lots of soil. If water-retaining, it will take long time to dry up and roots could be sitting in a muck. It would be better to pot up plant in gritty mix that will drain well.

It is turning green from lack of sun - even in front of window, light is much less intensive than outside. I have 3 (much smaller than yours and different from yours) and keep them under supplemental lights during their stay indoors. They still could loose some color. Here is photo of the same plant in different light:

There seems to be some plant debris in the pot. IMO, it is best to keep it clean and pick up any fallen leaves. BTW, where on the plant is the new growth? (just wondering).

Very helpful! Thank you so much. I will take this poor girl out today and let her dry out and then repot her in a smaller pot. Last time I just used regular potting soil. Should I be using something special?

Aeoniums are succulents and want a very gritty, fast draining, mineral based soil. If you have access to a good commercial C&S soil (ie. Bonsai Jack's), you can use that. Otherwise, supplement any regular C&S soil by 50% perlite or pumice. Or use a homemade gritty mix (1 part bark fines, 1 part Turface or similar product and 1 part poultry or granite grit.).

Make sure your plant gets as much light as possible to prevent etiolation over winter. Depending on where you are located, light received just through a window is unlikely to be sufficient and you may need a grow light to supplement.

Louis - Don't put the gravel on the bottom because it can and likely will cause water to "perch" in the soil above what you consider to be a 'drainage layer'.

Compare the image on the left to the one in the center to see what happens when you use "drainage layers". Ideally, your soil will have a very large fraction of larger ingredients about the size of BBs, or slightly smaller, some larger, and very few to none smaller than fine gravel.

Images below represent 2 different ways of building a high level of aeration and reduced water retention into a medium.

At a minimum, you should find some coarse perlite and mix it into the cactus soil so you have 2 parts perlite, 1 part cactus soil. If the gravel you have is of appropriate size and there isn't too much sand in it, it might serve well as a soil ingredient. If you add perlite and can't find it in 'coarse', screen it through a kitchen strainer with holes about the size of insect screen, or screen it through insect screen and discard the fines or add them to any heavy soil in your yard/beds/garden. Screen with the wind at your back and be careful not to breathe the dust.

Al

Depending on where you live, you might be able to find an appropriate size of chicken grit that growers feed their fowl to enhance the grinding of feed that takes place in the gizzard. It's inexpensive and a very good soil ingredient.

Al

Chicken grit can be found at an agragricultural feed supply store. A common brand is Manna Pro.

Ratio -

Use a container at least 6-8" deep. In the bottom 1/3 of the pot, use a 2:1 mix of grit to commercial medium (respectively). Make the middle third a 1:1 mixture, and the top 1/3 a 2:1 mix of commercial medium to grit (respectively). As you add a layer, use a fork or stick to mix a little of the material you're using for the middle layer into the the upper half inch of the bottom layer. Repeat for the top layer.

Gravel on the bottom is unnecessary. If fact, if you're concerned enough about your soil's water retention you think you might need a drainage layer, you should probably direct your energies toward improving the soil or taking other steps (that WILL work) to mitigate the limitations imposed by excess water retention. There are many things you can do that can turn a soil most experienced growers would consider unusable as it comes from the bag into something that can yield acceptable results.

Ideally, your soil should be one you can pour into a pot, insert a plant, and water to beyond the point of total saturation every time you water; this, without need to be concerned the soil will remain wet so long it limits root function and/or causes root health issues. Once you get to that place, consistently maintaining a wide variety of plants in a high state of vitality will involve a lot less guesswork and be much easier.

If you're interested in learning more, this would be a good starting point.

Al

You're welcome ....... and thanks for the kind words.

Al