Funcolors, are you saying that there are right and wrong white colors to match every color family? Not right or wrong. Every color belongs to a hue family except a true neutral white, a true neutral gray and a true neutral black. Those three are achromatic, which means without color, and therefore can not be categorized into hue family. Achieving true neutrality in paint color is not easy. Truly neutral white/gray/black usually comes direct from a manufacturer; is not mixed in a store. I do understand that all colors have undertones but I am still having trouble figuring out which white will work best. All colors do not have an undertone. If you spread a color thinly and the revealed color is the same as the top tone/hue family parent - there's no undertone, it just the same hue through and through. It is a gray with blue undertones. There is no such thing as grays with undertones. There are chromatic grays that belong to hue families and there is true achromatic, neutral gray. Gray with blue undertones is a backwards way to interpret how color works. Reversing that thought could be helpful. Instead of a gray with blue undertones, it is blue that has been grayed down so much..... grayed down so far........ that it is very near a true neutral gray. The color looks like it could be just gray but it's not, it is still blue. And that's a chromatic gray. The color we chose is BM Silver Lake at 50% strength. It is a gray with blue undertones. BM Silver Lake is #1598. If you look in the front of the BM fandeck you will find an index of BM hue families organized by color numbers. #1457 - #1680 is BM's "Cool Neutrals Toned Blues" Yes it is blue. Yes it is toned/grayed. The BM Oxford white has gray undertones and looks a little bluish to me. Again, let go of the "gray undertones" concept because it is not correct and very likely the root of why you're having a hard time finding the colors you want. BM Oxford is #869. And according to the hue family index, #743 - #973 are Teals-Blues Fresco Pales. It doesn't have very much chroma or colorfulness to it which is why it looks gray more than anything else. Not sure I'd call it bluish - altho compared to other colors it could very well look bluish. Yes, BM's "fresco pales" description suggests a skim milk kind of description. So something like Oxford White or Decorator's white would be better than a creamier white? What about Chantilly Lace, Snowfall White or SW Pure White? I would choose to sample Chantilly Lace or SW Extra White. With Silver Lake. Chantilly Lace should look warmer/creamier/cleaner/clearer compared to SW Extra White. SW Extra White will look slightly cooler and more grayed. Those are two good, slightly differing choices. Keep in mind that closest/most similar to does not mean "match" or even close to a match. Just means close/most similar. Here's a comparison of BM whites to the few whites SW does offer: BM 876 Alabaster is closest/most similar to SW7004 Snowbound BM 869 Oxford White is closest/most similar to SW7005 Pure White BM 2121-70 Chantilly Lace is closest/most similar to SW7006 Extra White BM 2143-70 Simply White is closest/most similar to SW7006 Extra White BM 2144-70 Snowfall White is closest/most similar to SW7006 Extra White BM Decorator's White is closest/most similar to SW7007 Ceiling White

I don't think Agreeable Gray is too brown next to Rainwashed; I was going to suggest Accessible Beige, which is actually a little bit browner. Since your current colors are all over the color wheel, I think anything you pick will work better with some and worse with others, but I don't think Agreeable or Accessible would look really bad with any of them.

You may also find it helpful to consider paint colour from a different perspective. Every grey paint is a knocked-back, greyed-out child colour of an identifiable, fully saturated Hue Parent. That information alone gives you useful detail about a colour. Knowing where within that Hue Family a colour sits can also give you an idea if you are potentially dealing with a colour which may hint more peachy or more greenish for example. And thirdly all the colours you mention are near neutrals and therfore far more susceptible to changes in light quality than their more saturated relatives. All have the potential to shift colour in imbalanced lighting. In order to know how each will behave it’s important to test carefully in your space with your light. See the Colorography Lab at The Land of Color for further info on some of these colours key attributes, so that you might be able to filter out some possibilities before sampling.

Not a pro but I've spent an inordinate amount of time thinking about paint colours in my day. I can certainly understand wanting a colour we can envision and describe. What you're describing sounds lovely, btw. The Jan-Feb issue of Canadian House and Home features two taupes which might tickle your fancy (bolding mine): -Hidden Cove, Cloverdale Paint: "...This smoky, silver-tinged hue is a great alternative to stark white. It travels well around the house as a wall colour or as a trim, and pairs nicely with both warm and cool colours. It's perfect for those who find creamy whites too yellow." -Frozen Tundra, Sico: "Taupe is making a comeback, and this soft, putty version feels fresh and new. Try it in a living room to add depth and warmth while keeping an airy, sanctuary-like vibe." On the printed page, both look lovely - not warm, not cool - but I know pictures in a magazine lie (Photoshop). These colours might have more chroma that you want also but their descriptions might be helpful in your search. In no particular order, my list of tips and reminders (reiterates some of the great advice upthread and might be worth a reminder for lurkers): 1) Don't trust pictures when looking up a particular colour. Monitors and screens rarely render true and printed photographs are manipulated. Meaning, don't fall in love with a colour in a picture nor dismiss it. 2) Beware of too narrow a colour vision. It can be easy to fall into the "perfect paint colour" rabbit hole and our focus becomes limiting rather than liberating. The goal is to have a cohesive space so paint last makes the most sense, as you know. If you start with hard finishes you like, how could you end up with a wall colour you don't? Don't let trends or colour names influence you too much either. It's about what looks and feels good in your space. (I'm swayed by paint colour names as much as I am by lipstick names. Silly, really. Sometimes, the paint colour with the less enchanting name is the better choice. :P) 3) If your eyes start drowning in a sea of potential colours, look at each chip against a white sheet of copier paper. The colour's "undertone" will be more apparent. 4) Once you've narrowed down the colours to three or four candidates, go for the large paint samples (Samplize or paint inexpensive art canvases) because size affects a colour's impact. A colour that delights on a paint chip might overwhelm on a wall and suffocate in a whole room. 5) Consider an on-site paint consultation to get a second opinion in your space, in your light, with your hard finishes. It's more affordable than a mistake and saves time. (My local BM stores have designers who offer this at reasonable hourly rates.) 6) Consider "creating" your colour. For that, you'd need to find a paint store willing to mix you sample pots of your ideas. I don't know that all paint stores are willing or able but I had one local BM store whose owner offered to "brighten" a colour or "darken" another one for me. (Amazing to find someone who understood how none of the paint chips hit the exact spot for me.) 7) Colour matching an item is another possibility that can save time. Most non-reflective surfaces can be matched. But again, get a sample pot to test before committing. Good luck in your search, bondia, and I hope you'll report back that you found the colour that makes your heart (and eyes) sing in your home. Colour is so personal and I totally agree about paint not being a cheap endeavour!! Especially when choosing quality paint.