Pyramids - appropriate pot size isn't determined by how large the prospective pot is, relative to how large the pot that contains the plant now is. It's determined by soil choice. If you use a soil coarse enough that it doesn't support a soggy layer of perched water at the bottom of the pot, you could pot your existing plant in a 55 gal drum today if you want to. Actually, using a soil like that would be very good for the plant, given the plant's aversion to wet feet. Here's a picture of a soil that works extremely well for aralia, followed by something about pot size. I also included a scenario that illustrates the benefits of repotting, which includes a change of soil and root pruning, in comparison to simply potting up a pot size, which ensures limitations related to root congestion will always be a factor that limits growth and vitality. I hope you find the info useful. Choosing an Appropriate Size Container How large a container ‘can’ or ‘should’ be, depends on the relationship between the mass of the plant material you are working with and your choice of soil. We often concern ourselves with "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of a basic understanding about the relationship we will look at, which logically determines appropriate container size. It's often parroted that you should only move up one container size when "potting-up". The reasoning is, that when potting up to a container more than one size larger, the soil will remain wet too long and cause root rot issues, but it is the size/mass of the plant material you are working with, and the physical properties of the soil you choose that determines both the upper & lower limits of appropriate container size - not a formulaic upward progression of container sizes. In many cases, after root pruning a plant, it may even be appropriate to step down a container size or two, but as you will see, that also depends on the physical properties of the soil you choose. It's not uncommon for me, after a repot/root-pruning to pot in containers as small as 1/5 the size as that which the plant had been growing in prior to the work. Plants grown in ‘slow’ (slow-draining/water-retentive) soils need to be grown in containers with smaller soil volumes so that the plant can use water quickly, allowing air to return to the soil before root issues beyond impaired root function/metabolism become a limiting factor. We know that the anaerobic (airless) conditions that accompany soggy soils quickly kill fine roots and impair root function/metabolism. We also know smaller soil volumes and the root constriction that accompany them cause plants to both extend branches and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you have your sights set on. Conversely, rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in very fast soils where frequent watering and fertilizing is required - so it's not that plants rebel at being potted into very large containers per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very large containers with a soil that is too slow and water-retentive. This is a key point. We know that there is an inverse relationship between soil particle size and the height of the perched water table (PWT) in containers. As particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, soils will no longer hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the soil is ALWAYS well aerated, even when the soil is at container capacity (fully saturated). So, if you aim for a soil (like the gritty mix) composed primarily of particles larger than 1/16", there is no upper limit to container size, other than what you can practically manage. The lower size limit will be determined by the soil volume's ability to allow room for roots to ’run’ and to furnish water enough to sustain the plant between irrigations. Bearing heavily on this ability is the ratio of fine roots to coarse roots. It takes a minimum amount of fine rootage to support the canopy under high water demand. If the container is full of large roots, there may not be room for a sufficient volume of the fine roots that do all the water/nutrient delivery work and the coarse roots, too. You can grow a very large plant in a very small container if the roots have been well managed and the lion's share of the rootage is fine. You can also grow very small plants, even seedlings, in very large containers if the soil is fast (free-draining and well-aerated) enough that the soil holds no, or very little perched water. I have just offered clear illustration why the oft repeated advice to ‘resist pottting up more than one pot size at a time’, only applies when using heavy, water-retentive soils. Those using well-aerated soils are not bound by the same restrictions. As the ht and volume of the perched water table are reduced, the potential for negative effects associated with over-potting are diminished in a direct relationship with the reduction - up to the point at which the soil holds no (or an insignificant amount) of perched water and over-potting pretty much becomes a non-issue. Repotting vs Potting Up I often explain the effects of repotting vs potting up like this: Let's rate growth/vitality potential on a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the best. We're going to say that trees in containers can only achieve a 9. Lets also imagine that for every year a tree goes w/o repotting or potting up, its measure of growth/vitality slips by 1 number, That is to say you pot a tree and the first year it grows at a level of 9, the next year, an 8, the next year a 7. Lets also imagine we're going to go 3 years between repotting or potting up. Here's what happens to the tree you repot/root prune: year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 repot year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 repot year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 You can see that a full repotting and root pruning returns the plant to its full potential within the limits of other cultural influences for as long as you care to repot/root prune. Looking now at how woody plants respond to only potting up: year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 pot up year 1: 8 year 2: 7 year 3: 6 pot up year 1: 7 year 2: 6 year 3: 5 pot up year 1: 6 year 2: 5 year 3: 4 pot up year 1: 5 year 2: 4 year 3: 3 pot up year 1: 4 year 2: 3 year 3: 2 pot up year 1: 3 year 2: 2 year 3: 1 This is a fairly accurate illustration of the influence tight roots have on a woody plant's growth/vitality. You might think of it for a moment in the context of the longevity of bonsai trees vs the life expectancy of most trees grown as houseplants, the difference between 4 years and 400 years lying primarily in how the roots are treated. Al

From your use of Celsius degrees I assume you reside in Canada somewhere....14úC = 57úF....cool, but shouldn't be too cool for a houseplant in winter. Plants normally now are, while not dormant per se, use a lot less water...and to that you don't say how or when you give water to the plant. Does it drain properly and do you throw out such drainage, not letting it be drawn back up to the roots. The plant's position in relation to sunlight, and to outside air or air from a heat vent. This can affect how much moisture the leaves are taking up. There is very little drier than a house in winter with the furnace on. Cool nighttime temperatures are appreciated at this time....hence the 57ú is just about right. You didn't say just how long you were away and whether you watered it before you went away. Most plants, given a good watering, and good drainage, can go weeks without additional. If they are not growing then there's no need to feed--they couldn't juse it if fed. Most problems with drying out will be noticed first at the bottom leaves of the plant...they are ones closest to the drying roots. Make sure the pot's soil isn't shrinking from the sides and hence, when you water, it goes straight down to the saucer...very little makes it to the roots to stick around. If that occurs, simply add soil to fill the cavity. To assist in drying during winter months, try misting the plant. The leaves can then absorb some of the moisture without giving the entire plant a watering. Watch how the sun comes through the window glass...too close, it can burn--even in winter, sunlight can be too much when close to the window. Draw it back some and as winter progresses, put it closer. The days are getting longer now...winter solstace--the shortest day in the year---so the plant should begin to improve.

Hi Al, I noticed that the bark of this ming aralia was getting very loose at the base of the tree for a while now, -couple of weeks, and some fungus gnats were trying to make a home in the soil. I was curious if it was still green underneath the bark so I pulled back a bit of it which came off easily and more than I wanted. It was black and fuzzy under the bark and then a bunch of clear worm-like (>1cm) squirming out of the bare trunk. I immediately covered with pesticide powder. The creature is less than a centimetre long; this one is close up of the creature and that just dark soil at the end.Removed more bark; more worm-like things squirmed out. I finally hit a green part (left trunk) and stopped. Found some rust-coloured bumps/spots on a section of the bark.I have resolved that I should just get rid of this plant. Even though it's really sad, I'd like to know what these things are. I googled but there were so many possibilities. Are they harmful to people, pets, or will the affect my other plants and how fast? Are these normal indoor plant problems? What could I have done better since the big "root-canal" to have prevented this? Many thanks on your guidance, Al. nY PS: Interesting observation, during the time I noticed the loosening of the bark, there was a strong almost sweet smell that came from the plant I can smell from a meter away. Definitely different front the mild turmeric-like smell when the plant was healthy.

Hey Ash, just some Ming-specific advice that might be useful- I've been growing them for many years, and they all drop leaves randomly. Granted, yours really needed some fresh soil, but Ming's tend to drop leaves periodically, although not necessarily in fall, so don't worry when it does it again. If its dropping green leaves, not yellow, or if you have no new growth after a drop, something is wrong, but leaf drop by itself isn't a bad thing. Also, I'm betting the reason you got told not to repot is because Ming's generally don't love having their roots messed with, and they like being underpotted. Refresh some of the soil periodically, for sure. The usual green-thumb houseplant people need their smelling salts when they hear how infrequently these get bigger pots :-) And, finally a useful Ming link- go to the bottom for care tips http://www.rhapisgardens.com/ming-aralias/