I think that's a valid reason for getting rid of a rose that you don't like. Have you decided what other rose to replace this Sixteen Candels? Perhaps you may like to look through some photos of what that rose looks like in maturity first. I got rid of my Sweet Caitlin rose (aka Golden Zest) because the colour was too bold/bright. Plus it likes to grow sideways and I just don't have the room for that. The only good thing about this rose is it's a bloom machine - wish my Austins could repeat as fast as that. I now have another dilemma. Whether or not I should get rid of Mayor of Casterbrige? My 2nd year old 'Mayor of Casterbridge' rose is planted in the ground and is already 3m tall! The reason why I want to get rid of it is because this rose didn't repeat at all! It gave me a massive one month display of pink blooms in mid Nov to early Dec and that was it. I only wish it has a stronger scent, otherwise it's just another pretty pink rose. I like this rose - but this rose is planted in a prime spot whereas all my roses are planted in the containers. I wonder if 2 years is enough to come to a verdict.

Our organic method Old Rose garden has these Tea and Tea like roses that thrive here where condtions favor p.m. more months of the year than blackspot: these I consider to be A list Tea roses and I would buy them first: Mrs. B.R. Cant a larger bloom and deeper pink than Duchess de Brabant and I consider both to be Must have Pink Tea roses along with the China-Tea Le Vesuve which has very rapid rebloom,, and Mme. Antoine Mari, which gets lightly covered with p.m. but no loss of leaves nor bloom production. Mrs. Dudley Cross, very healthy and quite smooth stemmed. Souvenir de Pierre Notting, a lovely Tea rose that has large blooms. I'd give it a few hours of filtered shade to keep it from bleaching out in the hot summer sun. Etoille de Lyon: can be kept to c. 5' in zone 7 a useful size and easy to espalier in a narrow space. Lady Hillingdon and the apricot form of Anna Olivier are also healthy A list Tea roses and most Teas are pale or light hues so these are very welcome in a Tea rose garden. plus A.O. is the most strongly scented of all the Tea roses to my nose. The white Tea roses, such as Niphetos and Devoniensis can be Divas depending on cultivation and situation, the ones I've found to be easy to grow are: Westside Road Cream Tea" I adore this fragrant white Tea rose, and bought two of them. W.R.C.T. is far more resistant to p.m. than Ducher which defoliated and was shovel pruned. Le Pactole" I had to leave mine behind when I moved, a great loss for it takes ages to build size and is worth every second of waiting. Exquisitly elegant blooms. Caveat Rosa: I shovel pruned my "Georgetown Tea" it was far too sickly from p.m. to keep in my garden, it defoliated c. 90% of its leaves. Mme. Lombard is borderline for p.m. resistance here,yet although it is covered with a thin icing of p.m. it neither defoliates nor decreases bloom production. As an organic method gardener I'm used to ignoring this amount of p.m.. Mme. Berkeley is quite resistant to powdery mildew in our area, but I have heard from folks elsewhere that it is not as resistant to blackspot as some other Tea roses. I love it and have it outside my living room window so I can see her often. I prefer Monsieur Tillier to Gen. S. for color and M.T is slightly healthier in our garden. The Triomphe du Luxembourg we received appeared like a plainer version of Mlle. Franziska K. and I regret ordering 3 of these. "Alliance Franco-Russe" shows less resistance to p.m. than Etoile de Lyon and Souvenir de Pierre Notting. best wishes for a beautiful Tea rose garden. Luxrosa.

Yes it does have a short half-life and an insecticidal life or 3-10 days. That is far far shorter than MANY other highly used insecticides. Certainly not 15 years as I have seen claimed before. As previously stated, we have a full community of insects in our plants, and in our soil, and we use it to control Japanese Beetle damage during the 6 weeks or so the adults are present. ENVIRONMENTAL FATE Carbaryl has a short residual life on treated crops. The insecticide remains at the application site, where it is slowly taken into the plant and metabolized. Insecticidal properties are retained for 3-10 days. Loss of carbaryl is due to evaporation and uptake into plants. Breakdown by sunlight does not appear to be significant. Degradation of carbaryl in the soil is mostly due to sunlight and bacterial action. It is bound by organic matter and can be transported in soil runoff. Carbaryl has a half-life of 7 days in aerobic soil and 28 days in anaerobic soil (9). Degradation of carbaryl in crops occurs by hydrolysis inside the plants. It has a short residual life of less than two weeks. The metabolites of carbaryl have lower toxicity to humans than carbaryl itself. The breakdown of this substance is strongly dependant on acidity and temperature. Here is a link that might be useful: carbaryl, A.K.A. Sevin

Hi trace00969, I was very interested in the same question so I went looking and this is what I found,Hope it helps you as much as I did.....Regards karen... variegation is caused by a genetic mutation in plants meristems (growth points). The mutation is thought to sometimes be caused by a virus, but not in all cases. The mutation causes the leaf or a section of the leaf to produce lesser or no chloropyhll, which has a green color. When tissue produces no chlorophyll, that part of the leaf has a white color. There are many patterns the mutation may direct the leaf to take, from all white to the margins or center of the leaf to lack green coloration, to striations and mottling between green and white. When you see reds, pinks, yellow, orange colors, there is a second factor at play. Autumn leaves of deciduous plants often have more anthocyanins (red pigment), carotenoids (orange pigment), or xanthophylls (yellow pigment) in them. These are the same pigments which are present in plants which have dark red, purple, bronze or blackish leaves. This may be in reaction to strong sunlight, or some plants may just genetically produce more of these pigments. When the chloropyhll is absent, in variegated leaves, these other pigments are often still produced and you can see the other pigments alone, not superimposed over the green tint as you would normally see it, so pure reds, pinks and yellows can emerge. Variegated plants can be more difficult to grow for this reason: the leaves have less chlorophyll, and so technically need more sunlight, so that they can produce more sucrose to compensate. The catch-22 is that the variegated tissue is often more tender to bright light, and can burn more easily than normal tissue. Thus you have to walk a fine line with lighting levels for these plants. When a variegated plant produces non-variegated stems, these stems produce more sucrose and thus are stronger and more vigorous than their variegated brothers, and often will shoot off in rapid growth while the variegated stems grow very slowly. Eventually they may be shaded out and die off alltogether, leaving only the green stems. Conversely, all white leaves produce NO chlorophyll, and no food for the plant, so too many solidly variegated leaves sap the strength of the plant. A few on an otherwise balanced plant should do no harm. This is also a matter of balance. You know those weird bright pink or red or orange ball cactus' you see in grocery stores? Note that they are always grafted onto a green stem. This green stem produces all the food for the plant, which would otherwise starve to death in short order. Sorry to be so wordy, but I forgot to mention that the lovely silver mottling or splashing you see on many Hoya leaves is NOT a form of variegation. As near as I can understand it, the upper levels of tissue have no color and reflect the light in a stange way. There is green pigment underneath these silver spots, as you can see if you scrape at them or cut the leaf in half and examine the cross section. Garden plants that are attacked by thrips often have a (much less attractive) silver cast to the leaves. Something about the cells which have been sucked dry of chloropyll. The whole reason we grow the variegates is to create attractive foliage plants. For the most attractive plant grow the variegates with more shade than you would grow the normal forms of the same species. The reason is that if you grow them too bright the green portions of the leaves will fade to a paler green color. The pale green does not highlight the variegation pattern, leaving you a plant that looks more washed out than pretty. This is particularly true of central variegates where the variegation is yellow. I saw a really drab un-impressive central variegate H. verticillata (acuta) at a friends house. The plant was very well grown and of huge porportions, but the grower had it in very bright light. The green of the leaves had faded to almost the same pale yellow of the central variegation. The plant was un-remarkable in its bland appearance. I am certain had it been grown in deeper shade it would have knocked my socks off. If you want an attractive presentation, grow variegates in shade. Yes, this means the variegate will grow slower, becasue it is not making as much sugars. Mark has the physiology right. But you grow the variegates for their foliage, not the flowers.