natural stone range hood?
hyehouse
5 years ago
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5 years agohyehouse
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Range hood for 36" Bluestar range
Comments (17)Not to minimize, but I think the concerns over carbon monoxide relative to what the hood is doing should be pretty small. The main thing that affects CO production is how the fuel is burning. If there's enough air, as indicated by a solid blue flame, you shouldn't have to worry. And that's set by the air shutters at the various burners. For the hood to affect the amount of air for combustion, it would have to reduce the amount of air that can get into the shutters to mix with the fuel. That isn't going to happen since the air pressure at the burner is always going to be essentially the same as at the air shutter for that burner. For there not to be enough O2 for the fuel (i.e. enough air, but O2 concentration reduced), there's also not going to be enough O2 for you as the cook. That hints at larger problems not related to the range. I'm not saying there aren't houses where makeup air is needed. It's not just to prevent negatively pressurizing the house, it also lets you control where that air is coming from, as opposed to via infiltration (or an open door/window). I vote to get as big a hood as you can- we have a 42" wide by 27" deep VAH over our 36" BS RNB. We also don't necessarily turn it on when cooking unless we need to. Still here despite all that combusted natural gas (i.e. 2H2O + CO2) we've let into the house. Yes, we have a CO monitor, as should everyone....See MoreRange hood over uneven stone backsplash
Comments (7)Hi! I went ahead and installed the hood after the backsplash. The kitchen designer people said it shouldn't be done that way, but I am so glad I did it afterwards. If I ever need to replace the hood, the stone behind it will be fine. The installer just made sure there was wood behind the stone at the points needed to secure the hood. Cutting the stone to fit around the hood would have been a nightmare, and I don't feel would have looked good. I will try to attach photos....See MoreHave you ever seen a marble rangehood?
Comments (86)You probably don’t need a steel frame. It should only be required if there is a concern about the load on the joist, so maybe if the hood sets under a bathtub or something. Quartzite is just not that heavy, it only seems heavy because it is rather thin. 2cm thick quartzite is about 12 lbs per square foot, which is really nothing significant. A wall cabinet with a typical load of plates and bowls will easily be more than that much and these days that is 1/2” plywood held to the wall with two to four #10 cabinet screws. A 36” stone hood in a room with 9’ ceilings is going to be about 312 lbs of stone… The shear rating of one 3/8” bolt is more than double that and I assure you, more than one will be used. The only real complication is the attachment of the frame to the joists or studs and that is going to require bolts in shear....See MoreRange hood suggestions? Island hood, stainless, 36"ish
Comments (17)I may have left out some words due to repetition. The number of square feet refers to the entry aperture of the hood. For example, a 36 x 24 hood aperture would be 6 square feet, and would require 6 x 90 = 360 CFM actual, likely needing a blower rated at 540 CFM. Pressure loss not only entails the ducting, but the baffles and the MUA path. Leaky walls are not exactly a free path for air. A leaky house may be sufficient for MUA in practice (given that the blower rating takes the pressure loss into account), but the OP may live where aggressive code enforcement will demand at least a damper in a duct to the outside. The rationale for 90 ft/min is based on ensuring entrainment into baffle gaps that typically are around 50% of the baffle area and have to deal with upward plume velocities of as much as 1.2 m/s. See also the table (Figure 4) on page 9 of the Greenheck Guide available here: https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf The discussion leading to that table should prove useful for background information. In particular, the Greenheck method vs. the linear feet of hood edge (all the way around for an island hood) method is discussed. (Note commercial cooking rarely is true island type; even located in the middle of a kitchen the hood is connected to the cooktop via a back section. There may also be side skirts on the hood.) Last, let me point out that capture can fail under cross draft conditions, which are almost always worse for island/peninsula configurations than wall configurations....See Moreoldbat2be
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