This is a very old thread, but it's one that I bookmarked for my own kitchen renovation nearly two years ago. This thread is mixed with positive and negative reviews of butcher blocks for countertops in kitchens, and as a result of the negative reviews in this thread, I passed on the idea of a butcher block countertop at the time. However, after more reading since my countertop decision was made, I have learned that an end-grain butcher block countertop is more durable than an edge-grain one and could make the difference in how a butcher block countertop is experienced. The posters above who had negative experiences didn't specify which type theirs were. Also, maple is more reactive with moisture than other species like cherry which is more stable against moisture, so you would see more cracking from the expansion, contraction, and warping due to moisture exposure with maple than with other woods commonly used for butcher blocks, and at least one of the posters above with a negative butcher block experience had maple. There is also a concept of open-grain and closed-grain woods. Oak and walnut are considered to be open-grained woods, so not as suitable for butcher block even though butcher block is still made in these species, particularly walnut. Maple, cherry, and hickory are closed-grain woods and more suitable for a working countertop. Of these three woods in order of hardness, cherry is softest, "hard maple" is harder ("soft maple" is also available and is closer to cherry in hardness), and hickory is hardest. The harder woods like hickory are more dense and could possibly crack more easily with moisture exposure, but they also bear up against knife marks better. Since sanding a butcher block top is something owners often choose to do about once per year, it shouldn't make a difference really if choosing among cherry, maple, or hickory for the hardness alone. Caution should be exercised in terms of spot-sanding, as doing so over a long period could cause the top to become uneven. It is better to sand the entire top at once. Mineral oil is the standard for countertops frequently used as work surfaces including chopping, and the oil really should be applied regularly, like once per week, throughout the life of the butcher block to provide the best protection. A wax plus oil conditioner is also a possibility. If I had the option, I would definitely re-consider putting at minimum an end-grain cherry butcher block inset into my kitchen after the information I've found since first bookmarking this thread. John Boos is one of the biggest suppliers of end-grain maple and cherry butcher blocks in all different sizes and thicknesses, and the best prices on these can be found by shopping around online at kitchen and restaurant supply websites. A thickness of three inches is usually recommended as the minimum to make a butcher block inset look its very best, but that thickness could decrease for logistical needs if the entire countertop were being done in butcher block. If an inset is chosen, one of the better ideas I have seen is to let the inset sit higher than the surrounding countertop and do only a minimal silicone seal or nothing at all so the inset could be removed for cleaning and re-surfacing if needed. One last item I'll mention is that the separation and cracking sometimes seen with end-grain butcher blocks could be almost completely avoided by using a dovetailed configuration, but this is so rare among manufacturers today that it's essentially impossible to find without a custom build by a manufacturer who specializes in this. Below are two photos of dovetailed butcher block.

I'm actually looking at that same top from Craft-Art for my kitchen island, although I do plan on cutting on mine, so will be using BOOS Block Cream for mine. With all the great comments on how people like their waterlox finish, I was tempted to go that route, but don't want to have to pull out a cutting board to use it, since mine will be prep space (small kitchen). I think the look of that top would fit in with any decor -- walnut has a way of looking dressed up, as well as casual. The thing I like best about it though is it's warmth and inviting feel it gives to a kitchen. I love the distressed top as well- your kitchen sounds very similar to mine!

So I've decided to get a standalone butcher block (with four legs) for my new kitchen. The quote I got for the butcher block made by MMB (Michigan Maple Block) is quite reasonable. It's comparable to John Boos. Now, I have trouble deciding on what size to get. Could you please help me out? The block is available in three thicknesses: 12", 14", and 16". Their working height is all the same (34"). The sizes available in each thickness are as follows: 12" Thick: 18″ x 18″, 18″ x 24″, 24″ x 24″, 24″ x 30″, 30″ x 30″ 14" Thick: 18″ x 24″, 20″ x 20″, 24″ x 24″, 24″ x 30″, 30″ x 30″ 16" Thick: 18″ x 24″, 24″ x 24″, 24″ x 30″, 24″ x 36″, 30″ x 30″, 30″ x 36″, 30″ x 40″, 30″ x 60″ I "think" I have enough space for any of the size listed above, but I don't think I need to get the largest one that's available (30" x 60"). I am leaning towards the 16" thick one, 24" x 30" or 24" x 36", but don't know if it will look huge in real life. Thank you!

For food contact, the only darkener that I'd trust as safe is time and use. Maple darkens over time and with light exposure. If you'll go to any kitchen showroom and look at their maple cabinets and compare the inside of the doors to the exterior that's received light exposure, you'll see that it becomes darker and more golden. If you don't plan to use your butcher block as a chopping block, and will use a cutting board, then any wood stain lightly and very very very carefully applied to that end grain folllowed by the clear coat of your choice will do the trick. Maple is very difficult to stain dark though, and end grains soak up stain and finish like a 3 year old with a chocolate milkshake.