fish and chips - US vs. Commonwealth Countries?
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoUpperBayGardener (zone 7) thanked Lars/J. Robert Scott
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Coconut husk chips vs Pine bark fines...
Comments (12)From what I've studied, there is little difference in the decomposition rates of CHCs vs pine/fir bark, and coir vs peat, so I wouldn't allow durability or longevity of the (soil) components sway my decision to use a coconut product or not. After being pressed by a dear friend to try/evaluate CHC's, I performed a little experiment. Below, is a copy/paste job from a post I left somewhere, earlier this year. Though it starts out talking about coir, it ends with some commentary about CHCs. Sphagnum peat and coir have nearly identical water retention curves. They both retain about 90-95% of their volume in water at saturation and release it over approximately the same curve until they both lock water up so tightly it's unavailable for plant uptake at about 30-33% saturation. Coir actually has less loft than sphagnum peat, and therefore, less aeration. Because of this propensity, coir should be used in mixes at lower %s than peat. Because of the tendency to compact, in the greenhouse industry, coir is primarily used in containers in sub-irrigation (bottom-watering) situations. Many sources produce coir that is high in soluble salts, so this can also be an issue. Using coir or CHCs as the primary component of soils virtually eliminates lime or dolomitic lime as a Ca source because of their high pH (6+). Gypsum should be used as a Ca source, which helps correct coir and CHC's low S content. All coconut products are very high in K, very low in Ca, and have a potentially high Mn content, which can interfere with the uptake of Fe. I haven't tested coir, but I have done some testing of CHCs (coconut husk chips) with some loose controls in place. After very thoroughly leaching and rinsing the chips several times, I made a 5:1:1 soil of pine bark:peat:perlite (which I know to be very productive) and a 5:1:1 mix of CHCs:peat:perlite. I planted 6 cuttings of snapdragon and 6 cuttings of Coleus (each from the same plant to help reduce genetic influences) in containers (same size/shape) of the different soils. I added dolomitic lime to the bark soil and gypsum to the CHC soil. After the cuttings struck, I eliminated all but the three strongest in each of the 4 containers. I watered each container with a weak solution of MG 12-4-8 with STEM added at each watering, and watered on an 'as needed basis', not on a schedule. The only difference in the fertilizer regimen was the fact that I included a small amount of MgSO4 (Epsom salts) to provide MG (the dolomitic lime in the bark soil contained the MG, while the gypsum (CaSO4) in the CHC soil did not. This difference was necessary because of the high pH of CHCs and coir.) for the CHC soil. The results were startling. In both cases, the cuttings grown in the CHC's exhibited only about 1/2 the biomass at summer's end as the plants in the bark mix. I just find it very difficult for a solid case to be made (aside from "It works for me") for the use of coir or CHC's. They're more expensive and more difficult to use effectively. The fact that some believe peat is in short supply (no where near true, btw) is easily offset by the effect of the carbon footprint of coir in its trek to the US from Sri Lanka or other exotic locales. That's the view from here. Al...See MoreBAck to Eden/wood chips vs no mulch experiment results
Comments (13)Elisa, the premise of BTE is that tilling destroys the soil structure and bio life. Tilling removes the covering; the soil rapidly dries out and top soil erodes. The "magic" in the wood chips is it is a covering that first retains moisture, and secondly feeds the plants as they decompose. It's why a mulch of smaller nutrient rich branches with needles and leaves is necessary and not just chipped trunks or bark chips only. The fungi that develop in the wood chip mulch help feed the plants. The mulch develops a helper system of organisms and other plant life that assists your fruits and veggies. In turn, your plants feed them. If you till composted organic material into your main garden, I'd suggest another experiment. Set aside a small section of your MG (maybe as small as 5x10 feet) for no-till. Still don't use wood chips, but layer your organics on the top (composted manure, yard waste, etc). Paul is very specific that if you don't have wood chips, just use whatever organic materials you have. (You can even use rocks) The most important part is to create a covering and not mix it in. Layer on top. When I tilled, I had virtually no earthworm population. Now, by not tilling, I can't dig a 4 " planting hole anywhere without killing several earthworms. And my soil (mostly red clay) is always damp and soft I destroyed a small tiller in two seasons trying to break up the clay. I then rented bigger tillers that beat me up for 6-8 hours trying to a 12x40 garden in which one half barely produced b/c of the rock hard clay. And it was back just as hard in the fall as it was in the spring. So it wasn't getting easier with time. Now with the wood chips, that area stays moist and soft. Everything grows there and I save the expense of renting, tilling, and fighting the soil every season. The fact that you got 25% more production is huge. You can get that in your MG using BTE principles but without adding wood chips. Paul no longer adds wood chips to his main garden b/c of his difficulty in walking. He uses them everywhere else. But in his MG he uses compost from his chicken pen as the covering....See MoreCan anyone find me the link about farmed vs. wild fish?
Comments (19)There are two separate issues here. There is the issue of food safety and wholesomeness. And there is the issue of fish stock protection and preservation. Monterey Bay Aquarium's mission is the second one and they use the first as one of the arguments to support their case. I'm interested in both issues and sympathetic to both. But, here of the food forum, I think safety and wholesomeness of what we eat is the main concern. I think it has been established that salmon raised in pens flushed by the tides with unlimited quantities of sea water and fed a carefully formulated diet are high quality fish. Wild salmon, like any other wild fish is also fine with me, but it is a notch below the farmed salmon in quality I believe. By feeding off natural organisms there is some chance of being contaminated by parasites or bacteria. Not enough to worry me much, but enough for me to prefer farmed salmon for lox and sushi. The freshness of farmed salmon is another point in its favor. There is no delay between harvesting and processing. Wild fish spend some time, maybe a little, maybe a lot, in the hold of a boat prior to being landed. Again, I am not against eating wild caught fish, but farm raised salmon can't be bear in that resepect. I do avoid pond raised catfish, tilapia and shrimp. I suspect those shallow, warm water ponds must be overcrowded and unsanitary. It's not at all like salmon pens in the North Atlantic or the North Pacific. Yet, from the point of view of the Monterey Bay Aquarium, pond raised seafood should be highly preferred. Jim...See MoreThoughts on a used Viking vs a new Thor Kitchen?
Comments (30)I would NOT purchase from Thor ever. I purchased the 48” gas over and range in Oct 2020 but it was not installed until May 2021 since we were building the home. Like another reviewer said, the delivery was terrible and just left this in our yard. Fortunately we have a tractor and were able to move it carefully to the house. We used the stove and oven from May until October without any problems. Then one day the oven knob light was randomly on in the morning when we woke up. The oven was slightly warm but the knob was in the off position. Turning on the oven and letting it ignite and then turning it off made the knob light turn off. This happened every day for about 4 days and then the circuit breaker the oven was plugged into simply flipped. We flipped it back and instantly it blew again. We unplugged the over, switched the breaker to on and then plugged it back in and it blew again. We tried plugging it into another circuit and the same thing happened, it would trip the breaker immediately. At this point we knew that it was definitely the oven, which was still under warranty. We called for service and about a week later were told that they could not find anyone in our area to fix it and asked if we could find someone. We spent about another week looking for someone who would work on this unit and called over a dozen appliance repair companies and could not find anyone. We called them back and they told us someone from a company four hours away would be contacting us. A week later we never heard from them so we called them back. They told us to wait another week. After another week we called Thor back and they told us they were trying to assign it to another company. Another few weeks went by, I was staying in contact with Thor throughout this entire time and at some point they manage to find someone but gave that technician a random phone number so it took another two weeks before that technician could contact us. At this point we had already past Thanksgiving and had been unable to host our large family since our oven did not work. The technician came out and spent the entire day trying to fix/diagnosis the oven but the parts that Thor had sent were completely wrong and did not take care of the problem. He had to order new parts which did not come in until after Christmas. At this point we were dodging snow storms and so it took another few weeks for him to be able to come out to install the part. Finally in mid January he was able to install the part and we had a working stove for three days. Immediately after he left the same thing began to happen with the oven light knob turning on randomly and the oven getting slightly warm when we had never touched the knob. After three days the oven blew the circuit and we are back in the same situation with a non functioning oven. Of course we contacted Thor and the technician. It has been another almost 3 weeks and we are now told that the technician is out of the country and only he is able to work on it. We are being told to wait another two weeks to even schedule the service. It will be over four months without a working oven and since it is still under warranty we cannot find another technician to fix it or attempt to fix it ourselves. I deeply regret purchasing a Thor product and will never do so again. This has been a horrible experience with no one at Thor trying to make this situation right. Anytime I express how difficult this has been without an oven and asked what Thor was able to do for us they’ve just told us they can do nothing and that we must wait. At this point I want my money back for the stove and start over with a new company....See More- 7 years ago
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