I did read that thread. I guess I should have been more specific in my question. I should have asked--If FPE is the best, is it worth the money to put it on builder grade kitchen cabinets? Or do builder grade cabinets not "deserve" a paint like FPE, but rather a slightly lesser quality, but still good, paint like BM? Or would using FPE paint make the lower quality cabs look higher quality? Thanks again, I hope that question makes sense :)

I wouldn't use chalk paint. I've used and like Advance, but in satin, which might be more sheen than you are looking for. However, for ease of cleaning, I wouldn't really like using anything less than satin, personally. You should be aware that the reason the cabinets are peeling when handled is because the previous painter did not adequately prepare the surface- i.e, sanding, degreasing, bonding primer over gloss or oil based surface before applying latex topcoat. So any additional coats you put on might not stop that peeling, as the issue is that that existing coat is not bonding to the original cabinet finish. I think there are some "peel stop" primers now, but have never used one so can't say if that will stop your peeling problem. My parents have a similar problem going on in their kitchen with their painted cabinets. The peeling is happening primarily where the door pulls are because they get handled more there. I am going to repaint them when I visit next time, and I plan on sanding down all the areas around the pulls. I may have to use some ready patch after that to blend those areas in. Then I'll prime and use Advance, most likely. I used a cabinet paint by C2 in my kitchen, which I like, but that is not available where my parents live.

Breakthrough and Waterborne Proclassic are good choices. Another option is BM Advance. I would not use the oil option. Yes, it will yellow. Actually, Waterborne Alkyds I believe will also yellow slightly. If you want minimal yellowing, use a pigmented lacquer or conversion varnish (CV.) Lacquer has become a generic term. Ask what type of lacquer they want to use. Traditional nitrocellulose lacquer is not as durable for kitchen cabinets. Some newer waterborne "lacquers" pass KCMA testing standards. Make sure if you use lacquer that it passes KCMA. I have a post somewhere here of some cabinets I did were I used BM Advance in "Dover White" and then topcoated with WB lacquer. From a durability standpoint, CV is the most durable. CV is probably what your cabinets were finished with. I hope this helps.

Benjamin Moore Advance or Aura. Cabinet Coat is also good. Nothing from Sherwin Williams self levels all that well. Technique is key though. The paint needs to be applied fairly heavy so that it can dry down into itself and flatten out, but not so heavy so that it sags. Also, todays paint dry fast, so you need you work quickly and in small sections and once the paint is on, leave it be.