Try paint stripper. Once the stripper has done it's work you might have to get in there with a brush and scrub a bit. You probably won't get all the paint out but it should help. Stripper can be pretty nasty stuff so make sure you follow the label directions and observe the appropriate precautions.

As long as the surface of the beams is rough it will always be a problem with dust and dirt...sandblasting or sanding or just using a scrub brush and cleaner are options that are mostly labor intensive...wrapping as an option looks less authentic as a beam...makes the beam bigger .....and always looks like a fake beam....with the added expense of all the material needed....almost all options come with a risk that the walls will be damaged and need touching up ...if it was me...i would try cleaning them first....to maintain the authenticity...and then touch up if any of the color has come off..

There is wooden block sitting on the top of the beam which is about 2 inch thick and then 2x8 rafters are sitting on that wooden block. Roof plywood is on the other side of the rafter and then there is roof after that. Basically a typical attic-less cathederal ceiling. Condensation happens when hot air hits the colder surface. So his theory is beam is going to get cold enough in the winters that hot air from inside the house is going to hit the colder surface of the beam and it will create condensation. I am betting my money on the fact that beam might just never get cold enough since it is mostly inside. I am afraid to be wrong on that. Thermal bridging in my opinion usually happens when one side of the material is eposed completly to outside weather and other side of it is inside. With ridge vent on top and 2x8 rafters I see a clearing of good 10-12 inches of air space betweem roof surface and the beam. It would be interesting to see of that makes it cold enough. 10 inches bein in the case where ridge vent is absent since it does not run all the way across the roof. If you touch your drywall on the ceiling in the winter you will notice it cold. But it is not cold enough to cause thermal bridging. I was hoping that will hold true in case of steel beam as well, but steel is much better conductor than wood or drywall. So we never know. His logic behind putting covering beam with drywall or wood is the hot air will not be in direct contact of the steel surface. It has logic. I could try to break any potential thermal briding by putting insulation that will run over that wooden block sitting on beam. But I wonder what kind of insulation I can use in this application, which will leave adequate space for roof ventilation. In theory I should have a minimum of 2-3 inch space to work with insulation. your place looks great, what kind of insulation do you have on the top behind the steel beams? I love the exposed ceiling. I wish I could have that.

I am not necessarily going for full industrial look but I do want to see how the beam can stay out to fit with the new renovation. Furniture will be replaced and most likely flooring too with new modern looking floors, I do like to see wood grains however so I might put down either maple or rustic alder flooring. Right now flooring is oak and you are right it might not go with the modern look and feel, but maple and rustic alder should blend right in. TV will be wall mounted on the fireplace. Might change the fireplace with osburn matrix wood insert if budget allows it. Only thing I am inclind on saving is that dining table that you see next to the hutch as it is solid wood and those thing pillered leg look appealing but that too will be refinished to match the new color scheme. Throwing out the hutch as well or refinish it the color to match kitchen cabinets. Woman of the house wants it gone so it is most likely not staying. Will see if I can talk her into refinishing the hutch to match new kitchen cabinets, but that is going to be a task, Oh well... I believe refinishing might just not be worth it however. Love the idea of changing the sconces to up/down enclosed wall washers didn't even think about it. Thank you so much for that. I am not keen on carpets, but do you still recommend the carpet if the floor on the whole floor is same. Planning on putting down same wooden floor everywhere, including kitchen, dinning area and living room. Pretty much redoing the whole main floor.