A few questions to help you figure our your approach: Why do you want to give up the natural light made possible by window? Is it for additional upper storage or are you on a zero lot line? If so, add clerestory windows above the cabinets perhaps if you have high enough ceilings. Curving the island, while nice, will cost more and you still need to be mindful of clearance for door to screened porch. The keeping room seems approximately 16 X 13. It's larger than the the breakfast nook and many would use it for seating/tv space. Do you have convenient private space for family time elsewhere? How much time do you spend at the sink vs the range/cooktop? Based on how you use them, you could flip the two though the sink is in a convenient spot from the breakfast nook. An angled pantry can easily go where the desk is, and if you prefer DO those could go the left of a counterdepth french door or SxS RF. I'd place them next to the relocated pantry and have more open counter near the entrance. If you keep the RF in its current location, agree about the end panel. Not sure why you need a deep cabinet for the micro nor do I like its location in the entrance. I think the kneewall may refer to the counter height bar on the island vs all one level curved counter, but the all in one is not the greatest in your configuration as you don't have enough room for adequate counter in front of the working sink/cooktop space plus seats plus door clearance. This is a case where an outswing door may help if you have enough room on the porch for furniture placement.

remodelfla: I only use the microwave to defrost (when I didn't have the sense to pull the item into the refrig a day in advance), or to reheat leftovers that I don't feel like using the oven, hob, or toaster to reheat. If it wasn't for those occasion where I am feeling lazy or needed to shave some prep time off things I wouldn't bother owning a microwave. You are right about the landing though, I only gave it about 16" of landing to the right, which is partially because I figured I can use the eating bar as more storage space if needed. The kitchen is huge already and I'm trying to shave space where I can. Worst case I can move items to the island maybe off the hob. I might yet add some space though, thank you. :) bmorepanic: I never thought about that, my top is only about 18" and I can see that being a major issue. I haven't owned a raised eating bar yet but think they are quite aesthetically appealing. The hob is going to be induction to ease some safety issues, but I may still make the bar level. To the prep sink, I have the kitchen divided into a cooking and a baking area atm. That way one person can be baking while the other is cooking. My SO is an amazing cook and quite often I will run into her in our current U-shape kitchen with about 50" between counter fronts even when we are working on opposite counters. So keeping the prep sink is expensive, but I really wanted to save people from having to share one sink or walk across the kitchen to add a little water to the mixer. Plus I have to have a water line to the ovens for their steam assist feature anyway. I'm hoping I don't need a disposal for the prep sink as the baking area shouldn't have anything that warrants one? And the trash cans I will be mounting with a false toe kick so they have more clearance. The pantry is best explained by the fact that my current pantry (which is a 24" that I installed large pullout baskets for) is so well organized that if it weren't for the fact I have to look to weave past various bottles and boxes to get at stuff in the back and lift them up enough, it is so well organized I know exactly where things are and wouldn't bother looking to grab. My hope is that by making thinner pantry pullouts that aren't baskets means things will never be wore than 2 wide and thus everything is just a matter of knowing what is where to have it at one pull and one grab. I will include a link of my storage map to example later. (it shows where pots, dishes, utensils, etc are going) I do need to rethink having countertop space near the pantry though, incase I need multiple items. I only use the mixer for baking, I hand whip anything I typically cook. So the mixer is in the baking area and the food proccessor is on the cooking side. Thinking about it now though, when baking I do use the food pro sometimes... that may become an issue. Lastly, the aisle. The mudroom located to the east has a hall on the side not connected to the kitchen that heads to the Powder room, laundry room, and then the great room. So hopefully only those needing to be in the kitchen will be travelling through the kitchen. Plus I like to be able to pivot and be able to reach the opposite counter when working, 48" is too much of a stretch. Thank you for all the feedback! I hope I get many more people as thoughtful as you. :D rhome410: All the swinging doors are pocket doors and all shelves are pull out in teh base cabinets (should have mentioned that earlier). I know it is much more expensive to do, but I plan to build the cabinets myself, so the only real concern is wasted space. But the kitchen is huge so I think I will still have plenty of storage despite the need for false walls. I may just yet move the prep sink to the island to exactly where you mentioned, the far right side. I figured for ease of plumbing it would be more practical to keep it near the steam assisted oven that needs a water line anyway though. (Any arguements for or against the two position possibilities?) As for the main swap you suggest and all the shifts it would entail. That is precisely the reason I made this thread. I have an alternate layout very similar to the one you suggest that I should probably through together in CAD instead of hand drawn and post it. I will try to get to that this afternoon when I get home. For storage, let me also post the storage diagram I have this afternoon as well. The dishes are all stored in the wall cabinets on teh south wall atm. I have been debating breaking my field of view to the great room with hanging cabinets across, but I really would prefer not to block the view with any more than the hood for the hob if I keep the hob there. (which is looking less likely thanks to all of the feedback) Thank you all again, please keep up the bombardment of good ideas!

The layout posted by Benjesbride is almost exactly what we had in our hall bath (shared by two kids) in our old house. The only difference, which I would recommend, is we switched the tub and toilet, and put a short wall (full height, the depth of the tub, housed the shower plumbing) between them. The only downside for you is you'd have to find a place for a door into the closet.

Things change quickly with a baby. I wanted bright and colorful so all these subdued pastels have me ready for a nap. My nursery had nothing on the floor a toddler would want to climb on or pull over to be used to help climb. That shelving with the lamp on top--DANGER DANGER WILL ROGERS. What feeding accouterments? LOL I nursed all mine until they slept through the night. We had a dimmer switch on the overhead light--the only light in the room. At night feedings I could quietly in subdued light nurse and change baby with little or no noise or activity. Baby went right back to sleep.I had a soft sculpture (Noah's ark and several animals velcroed to the wall above baby's changing table. Language learning was important to me so baby and I did a lot of animal noises and descriptions of fur and size etc. They came on and off easily for baby as they grew and needed something to keep them busy. I too would have your chair kiddy corner. I hope it rocks. I second the no time/need for feet up but everyone is different. No cords, on drapes/shades/lamps. Safety first. Love the fun knobs idea for the dresser. I would find a shade and go with a valance. I know they aren't THE THING--but they are safest for baby. Before you blink drapes will be used to pull himself up. Drapery rods pull away fairly easily. Have fun, I so miss those years!!!