Can't find style of weatherstrip seal for bottom of door
Pam
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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Pam
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Can't decide between side by side or French door!
Comments (15)I'm pondering the same question: SxS vs FD. Despite the narrow issue, the following keeps pulling me towards the SxS. First: the FD reminds me of the chest freezer we used to have. Stuff just kind of finds it's way to the bottom, no matter how hard you try, and it gets lost. True, they have them with 2 drawers now, but the bottom one is still deep enough for this to occur. Second: my SIL bought my MIL a bottom freezer. Then she injured her back and couldn't get ANYTHING out of the freezer -- my husband has a back issue and I need him to get his own waffles for as long as possible. I've measured the widest items in our freezer and frig, and take a measuring tape with me when I look at appliances. So far the sxs seem to fit what I typically have. TYPICALLY. Brining the thanksgiving 14 lb bird could be an issue, though. I think we'll end up with a s by s with a little upright chest freezer in the garage. The thanksgiving bird may end up in the cooler with ice packs....See Moremagnetic weatherstripping for steel frames steel door
Comments (3). I've used some stuff that looks like very thin plastic strip with self-adhesive . . believe it's called something like "V-seal" made perhaps by 3-M. It's a continuous strip which you cut to length and then fold in half; and stick to the door frame. It forms a V between the door itself, and the frame. While it does not insulate like foams do; it certainly stops drafts quite well if properly applied. The adhesive may not work real well in the cold. I'd also let the stuff come to room temp and straighten out before I attempted to put it on. It collapses to practically nothing when you close the door; unlike foams and such which take up pretty much a certain amount of space no matter what. I'd like to avoid drilling too on that door or frame . . . . I think most of your typical home supply chain stores will carry something like that . . . cheap too. Bob...See MoreDoor bottom for exterior door
Comments (13)" millworkman" The difference between door hardware for a residential door and an aluminum, steel, fiberglass or wood commercial door is the method of attachment and in the 35+ years I've been doing this I have never had a problem with application. It would appear that you have a couple of choices; Remove the existing door bottom, measure the distance between the threshold and door to determine if there will be enough adjustment, and install a combination door bottom and drip cap. These are available in two configurations, either full wrap around or universal. Free floating these are 5/8 of an thick. If you find it necessary to use a threshold to makeup some of the distance.These are available in several widths as well, from dead flat to "high rug." Some of the products I've mentioned may not be readily available from your big box's, however they can be ordered....See MoreTyvek not sealed at bottom of wall and not overlapped 6" at seams
Comments (27)Joseph Corlett, LLC, Who knew "Follow the manufacturers' instructions" could be controversial?!? I'm not saying that bad building products were never produced. There have been some serious failures (LP siding, de-zinking pex plumbing fittings, flammable high-rise cladding) I'm also not saying that superior installation methods and components aren't sometimes available. (Forget Teflon tape, I've always used Permatex #2 on gas line threads and they will never ever, ever leak.) I am saying that the vast majority of installers do not have the technical depth of knowledge to substitute or disregard installation instructions. I am also saying that when homeowners have a question about what is "proper and correct" and need a reference, look at the installation instructions. In residential work, bad installs are vastly more prevalent than faulty products. I am also suggesting that products that deal with preventing water intrusion (including shower enclosures btw) are much more likely to do major and costly damage that goes undetected over time than almost any other system other than a faulty foundation. If one of your sink installs falls, it's pretty obvious what happened and who's responsible. Not so with a bad window flashing install that goes undetected for years. Many of the major building product manufacturers do have field reps / engineers who do get out in the field. They learn why their products fail in the field under real world installs. James Hardie, just for example, has changed their installation instructions over time. Windows on Washington Ltd, I've done a fair amount of work on old homes. My experience is admittedly limited to the mid-west. The older homes I've worked on range from some in the 1880's to many in the 1900's and 1910-20's as well as the 1940's. What I can tell you is that the wood framed homes in the 1880's - 1920's used mostly wood (cedar) siding with very little flashing (very little copper at times) and they had tar paper under the siding. If there was sheeting at all under the cedar siding and tar paper it was 1x boards - usually diagonally - not solid panels of glued OSB or plywood. To say that the walls weren't airtight is a huge understatement. We didn't see insulation installed in the walls commonly until the 1960's. (Insulation can act as a sponge and trap water in the wall). Those walls did see water intrusion especially around the windows, doors and band boards and especially after some years. They survived precisely because they were able to dry out instead of rot - not because the build quality or workmanship was so much better....See MorePam
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5 years agoPam
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