There is some very bad advice here in more than one post. Cat 5 is only rated to 100 mbps. If you are wiring for anything, you need at a minimum Cat 5e or Cat 6 ethernet for future-proofing. Do not use Cat 5 cable. You will regret it. Running dark conduit in the walls is an excellent idea. I did this myself. The conduit in the upstairs rooms runs up into the attic and then down into a large central conduit to the basement. The downstairs rooms run down into the basement and then into the central hub. Keep your conduit runs as short as possible and with as few turns as possible. You only need conduit in the walls, not in open space like the attic or crawl spaces. Also, don't forget fire suppression when running conduit. You must seal the hole where conduit passes through wall plates and the open end where the wires come out with either rock wool or fire-rated foam. This post was edited by rmtdoug on Thu, Sep 19, 13 at 16:20

ladoladi- If you have the normal skin that is not very thick, you can't screw them from the inside. There is not enough in the first 1/4" or so of a screw's length to hold something like this, and you always risk going through the face. I wouldn't use Liquid Nails because it has a thickness to it which could cause gapping and it may not hold that well in this situation. If it were me, I'd spread a uniform coat of wood glue on both the cabinet surface and the back of the skin with a brush or a sheetrocking knife, and then use a brad nailer (i.e., compressor powered) to nail it around the perimeter; then fill the small nail holes with a matching putty stick. Alternatively, since you don't sound very experienced with stuff like this, you could get a handyman to do this. It would be a shame to do this poorly and have it detract from the appearance of the cabinet installation.

120' lengths in different colors make for an awkward buy since you can't quite use 100' coils either. And there's no question that buying by the spool is usually much, much cheaper than by the foot. You'll almost certainly have to use green insulated or bare wire for the equipment grounds, so that makes it improbable that you can get all four off a a single spool. As for the other conductors, it's probably a judgement call by your AHJ as to whether they'll let you use all black wires and mark the ends with tape and/or paint. The code specifically allows this for wire guages smaller than #6, but not for #10. I've had some success getting local inspectors to accept marked wires in smaller guages, but in your area? Who knows.

"Even though the phase nomenclature is incorrect, and typical US residential service is referred to as "single phase", the advice was sound. From an EE perspective, the two 120V legs (RMS measured with respect to ground) are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. (But you already knew that, probably better than anyone else on this board). " The 120/240 V system used for residential power in the US is an Edison circuit, just like a multi-wire branch circuit. It is NOT 2-phase. 2-phase was experimented with long ago to allow for starting torque in induction motors (wit single phase power an induction motor has zero starting torque). 2-phase was discarded when 3-phase power proved easier to distribute. 2-phase uses a 90 degree phase shift and minimum of four conductors. 3-phase power requires only three conductors for a delta configuration. The more common (and far more correct) description of a 120/240 V service is as legs, to make sure they are clearly differentiated from a 3-phase system that uses 120 degrees of shift.