Advice on two approaches to patio base? Permeable pavers worth it?
DG
5 years ago
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KD Landscape
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Need opinion: Stone or Deck (for steps) out to a Paver Patio?
Comments (13)I would also consider a 2-level approach or something similar that lets you make the transition to ground seem more gradual. There is also the idea that you may find you want to do a good deal of grilling the food outside, then eat inside, because well, it is just so convenient and you can grill under less ideal circumstances than required for outdoor dining. The utilitarian steps down to patio just to get to the grill will be a barrier to that. The problem with same level is that you have to use decking, then it does tend to force you to a large deck, then a large area underneath it plus lattice or whatever, plus maintenance--though new deck materials as you suggest make that less of an issue. So I do not want to discourage you from thinking about having a "stone" patio that is part of the yard. I think over time that area could be very nice and will feel more permanent--properly landscaped. So the deck idea gives a more immediate sense of its being just an extension of your kitchen and feeling like a "room", but the patio has the ability to feel "in the yard", as noted above. The problem with bi-level structures is you have to design carefully so that neither part is too small to be useful or it breaks up your party in the wrong way. So, for example, if you envision 6 guys or gals yakking around the grill, you want room for that in your design. I think the deck landing as shown in your picture has that dreaded ubiquitous tacked-on landing look that just gets you up and down, and if you do actually make just steps, I would try to put more into their design to make a more graceful descent to the yard--whether that is broader, curved, or something. Of course that might be too expensive, so part of the fun of the forum is that we can brainstorm about how you might spend your $$! Really, just giving you things to think about. Broad steps or more gradual transition type structures can also often be used as seating/dining (for kids) as long as is wide enough. You don't show anything about the exposure of the back of the house, sun patterns, etc, so any design needs to think ahead to whether you will plant trees for shade, use umbrellas, arbor, or what--meaning, leave space in yard, or plan layout of space....See MoreDo you have pavers or flagstone on your patio?
Comments (10)Pammyfay, I have had both. I had flagstone installed about ten years ago and hated, hated, hated it. BUT, that is not to discourage you because I now know mine was not installed properly. They just took up the grass, put a bit of sand down and laid the flagstones. The problem was that I had not down my research - not much on the internet then. I just trusted someone. He left large gaps and the stones shifted. Every year I tried to fill in the holes and smooth it out. Finally, last year I had it replaced with pavers and love, love, love it. I like that there are no gaps and that it is very easy to care for. Budge1, your combination sounds wonderful. Flagstone done correctly is beautiful. I would think it would take more care as there are larger gaps in it. I used some of the flagstones to create two walkways in my gardens. My best suggestion whatever you choose is to do your homework. Read, read, read on the internet how it is supposed to be done, i.e., depth of base, slope away from the house, etc. Then when someone comes to give you an estimate, you can know if they know what they are talking about. I love the look of flagstones and if my husband hadn't heard me b*tch about them for over ten years, I may have tried them again. Stamped concrete is yet another look. I have seen it done beautifully. I wanted the more natural, old-world look. Now if it would only warm up a bit here in northern Ohio and stop raining, I could enjoy it!!! Before: After:...See MoreNeed Advice on 1 year old Bluestone Patio Flaking and Chipping
Comments (58)Oh, how I wanted my natural bluestone patio...well, it now looks anything but "natural." It's a hot mess! Original landscaper installed and used polymeric sand because that was "best." He recommended not sealing it. Or, as he said, "Let it sit a year and then seal it if you want to." Very shortly after installation, stones started turning orange or had deep orange/rusty spots developing like a rash. The polymeric sand grout started popping up like worms after a rainstorm by year two. Hired a new hardscaping/landscaping company who--at year three of the patio--power washed it, swapped a few stones and tried to remove some stains, installed a new type of polymeric sand (which is supposedly better for the larger gaps the earlier landscaper used), and sealed it. First, the power washing did leave what looked like swirls of gray "graffiti" on some areas, but that seemed to go away with sealing. Until it rained, I wasn't sure they had yet sealed it, but it was evident when water beaded up and remained on the surface. After it dried, white patches appeared all over the stones. Reading how this can also occur with sealing concrete pavers, I'm now wondering if that composite deck idea was better! All I wanted was a beautiful, natural bluestone patio. I've stepped on countless university and college walkways that do not have these issues, and that is the look I was going for. How do they achieve such beautiful patios and walkways without the issues we homeowners face? I know they don't use polymeric sand and their "deep pockets" must be able to afford the best stone and best installers....See MoreRe-laying brick/paver walkway in backyard, need advice!
Comments (10)I pretty much agree with the above comments. The long joints are a bit wide, but overall the path looks in plane. If you wanted to tidy up the long joints, you could leave the center course of pavers in place and butt the two side courses up to it. However, you'd need to remove the side courses and clean the weeds out (by carefully cutting) first WITHOUT disturbing any of the sand. IE, you must lift the paver very carefully and replace it by setting straight down, not sliding. You could try a couple to see if it's going to be worth the bother, before you remove a whole row. If it's not worth the bother, just remove weeds and fill the joint with sand as everyone says. If you want to change the grade for drainage, lift all the pavers and create a new sand base. Tamp the base, screed the sand setting bed, set the pavers and tamp after they are all set. A QUALITY woven landscape fabric placed below the base will add stability, but it looks like you don't need it because all the pavers look in plane. It will NOT help you fight weeds.The way I take care of weeds is to kill them with glyphosate (Round-Up) and then apply Preen (per mfg. periodic schedule) to the path. It works quite well....See MoreDG
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