If you are going Organic, you really can not over do your applications. Lawn Restore is a good product, but you can also use Corn Meal or Cracked Corn, Soy Bean Meal and Milorganite (5-2-0 with 4% iron) to give you some diversity. Used Coffee Grounds can be used, if you can find a good source. In the fall, you can mulch mow leaves others throw away curb side and add lots of organic matter for free to your yard. It usually take 3-4 passes to make them disappear. Your neighbors will think you are crazy, but you can not deny the results. I applied 350lbs of organics / 1000 ft2 last year. Hoping to hit 500+ this year. Now for the clay, you can use a soil conditioner and wetting agent to loosen it up. This with the organics will open up the soil over a few years. Humic Acid, Dried Kelp and Black Strap Molasses can help energize the microbes in the soil and get things moving quickly in the spring. NC Agronomic agency soil tests are free and get you in the ball park. Although, once you dial the soil in, you may want to use a lab that gives you more details so you can tweak the other elements in your soil (Boron, Copper, Manganese, Zinc and Iron) Using lime (whether Calcitic or Dolomitic) is important and which one you use will help you with your pH and Calcium to Magnesium ratio (7:1 is what you are shooting for). Calcitic is usually 5x the price, but has 5x the Calcium. S http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/soil/msg0311011017714.html Lastly, NCState as a NTEP testing site for grasses. If you want the best results, using the best grass for this area is key. Typically the big box stores are not the best place. Online you can order exactly what you want. http://www.ntep.org/tf.htm Just read the results for the NC testing center and you can get an idea of which varieties you will want. In the end, you are probably not too far off. Since you enjoy it, adding a few more pieces to your schedule should improve your results.

My soil is acid to start with. The area in question has been composting spruce needles for 30 years. Maybe I'll add some lime now as the seed has not yet germinated.

Kurt at Trinity Turf recommended a blend which has Falcon IV and a creeping red fescue and another fine fescue, and I'm going to get that (Southern Sun and Shade mix). They sell it in 50 lb. bags but he said I wouldn't need that much and he'll measure out half a bag for me. He agreed that the 21-0-0 ammonium sulphate wasn't a good choice and recommended a starter fertilizer (13-25-12) since this would be a new lawn and then using an organic fertilizer next month (16-2-3). He said to keep the potash I already have and put it on later since the soil test indicated a lack of potassium. He's sending this stuff to a sales rep in Richmond and I'll get it from the rep, and so there wouldn't be a shipping charge. It's all very accomodating, since I know it's bound to be a bother dealing with a customer who only wants a small amount of stuff (I imagine he deals mainly with golf courses and landscapers). He also said I could put all the Solucal down when I plant and that it's an excellent product, that he has had good results with it. Now I'm waiting for the Roundup to kill the weeds--some are getting a little yellow but they're still mostly green. I guess I may need to do another application.

Why not just buy a young tree and save yourself 3 years or so? Besides, most citrus are grafted onto a different rootstock, so you may not get a duplicate of your neighbor's tree. Here is a link that might be useful: kaffir lime trees